Which Brake Rotors are Best?
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Which Brake Rotors are Best?
My rotors on my truck are shot. Not before I change the rotors I gotta figure out why mine are dragging so bad, but either way I am gonna have to get some new rotors.
Which are the best? Brembo? PowerSlot? Cross Drilled..Slotted? Im lost on which..lol
Anybody have any suggestions?
Thanks!
Which are the best? Brembo? PowerSlot? Cross Drilled..Slotted? Im lost on which..lol
Anybody have any suggestions?
Thanks!
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Originally Posted by optikal illushun
Stock, full faced rotors with vents from a reputible manufactor (Bendix, Raybestos, Wagner). unless ur racing on the track there is no benefiet to slotted or drilled.
i remember reading somewhere that drilled are prone to cracking also, atleast the ones that would be economical for our application
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Unregistered User
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Originally Posted by optikal illushun
Stock, full faced rotors with vents from a reputible manufactor (Bendix, Raybestos, Wagner). unless ur racing on the track there is no benefiet to slotted or drilled.
The ONLY time I saw a difference was after converting to rear disc's, things were much better then ( no drum lockups from the cold/wet either! ).
No point in wasting the cost difference for drilled or slotted rotors, Keil is right.
#11
So should I just go up to Napa and get some regular old rotors? I guess nobody will see them anyways..:( haha I was hopin for a better performance and look but I guess they really wont show and if there aint no change in performance there really aint no need in wasting the money
And Steve Ill def. have to talk with ya about the pads soon
And Steve Ill def. have to talk with ya about the pads soon
#12
I promise you that the cheaper line of rotors at napa are just as good if not better than the premium ones. They are cheap enough to replace pretty much every time you do a brake job. By the time you figure in time driving somewhere to have them turned, spending 20-40 bucks getting them turned, waiting on them to get turned, and then hoping they are still above minimum thickness....... its worth buying the cheap ones and discarding them every brake job.
#13
Ya thats def. true. Thanks for the advice I just might have to go get some of those tomorrow Now do ya'll have idea why my front wheels are so hard to turn? I mean they arent like frozen but they are really hard to turn. I know the 4x4 is gonna make it worse but could it have something to do with the fluid in the front diff or could it be a brake prob. or what? I got a bad feeling its killing my gas mileage
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Originally Posted by NicksterSVT
I promise you that the cheaper line of rotors at napa are just as good if not better than the premium ones. They are cheap enough to replace pretty much every time you do a brake job. By the time you figure in time driving somewhere to have them turned, spending 20-40 bucks getting them turned, waiting on them to get turned, and then hoping they are still above minimum thickness....... its worth buying the cheap ones and discarding them every brake job.
#20
Originally Posted by 4x4offroad99
$20-40 to get a rotor machined!? Good greif new ones dont cost 1/2 that!! We charge $8 per rotor.
Ok, what is 8 plus 8? thats 4 dollars less than 20 bucks. then like i said, you have drive time, gas, and so forth.... dont be retarded. I can get rotors for somewhere around 20-25 bucks per rotor. You do the math and tell me what makes more sense...
Edit: and by the way, i never said 20 per rotor. "them" is plural.
#21
Originally Posted by vansnxtweek
Alright cool but now the question is where do I lube..the pistons or what?
The slides are where the calipers bolt to the brackets. Once you take it apart, you will notice where the slides are. Clean them good and lube them with synthetic brake grease, and yes, the pads need some grease on them as well, only where they contact the caliper and the brackets. Make sure you clean the rotors with some break cleaner to get the shipping oils off of them.
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