35s with the RCD lift
#26
Originally Posted by Rangerboy03lvl2
i think they are better because of the wider stance .... gil the tread does stay the same .... but where the tread touches the ground is more flat, no like a bubble with a 15x8. i wore the **** outta the center of my bfg ats with only 30 psi when i had 15x8s. 15x10s the wear is even and i am running around 35 psi.
also with the 15x10 vs the 15x8 the off set is different. gil u also said that 15x10s will wear out ball joints faster. why did u say this if not for being a wider stance. ( not looking for a fight just tring to be logical :D lub you gil! )
anyways my truck handles alot better with 15x10s than it ever did with 15x8s and i was lower to the ground with 15x8s.
anyways i hope that answers ur questions kyle!
-Jared
also with the 15x10 vs the 15x8 the off set is different. gil u also said that 15x10s will wear out ball joints faster. why did u say this if not for being a wider stance. ( not looking for a fight just tring to be logical :D lub you gil! )
anyways my truck handles alot better with 15x10s than it ever did with 15x8s and i was lower to the ground with 15x8s.
anyways i hope that answers ur questions kyle!
-Jared
Also the BJs being worn out doesnt mean a "wider stance" it means more leverage at the widest point outer and inner on the rim. Ever do a physiques equation where you worked on Ft/lbs of torque? you get more force the wider you go from the fulcrum. you have one inch more in, one inch more out than a 15x8 of the same offset. THATS where you get the extra BJ stress. Also thus showing that the tread patch will stay in the same spot. It will NOT widen the tread width AT ALL. thus you get no more "stability".
Im not argueing with you either, but how long if ever did you have the 15x10s while not having the RCD on. Surely a coilover suspension could do oogles of handling difference from the TB suspension.
also just one more point for you jared. Again you never went mor than 15k (if less) on a tire previous to this set, correct? Because why? the burnouts. When a tire heats up, the center of the tread bulges out and the smoke comin from the tire was suerly not a fog machine, it was from all the heat that you created.
So yeah, you still havent really proved anything and I lub you too you little cracker
Last edited by SuperGildo@RRP; 11-22-2005 at 11:32 PM.
#29
#30
Originally Posted by Ranger_Interceptor
..tread is the same... but the fact its a 10" rim pushes the wheels out a bit further, you cant tell me a truck with 10's and a truck with 7's has the same wheelbase?..
for one wheelbase is the distance from the fron axle to the rear axles. You mean track width.
and YES. with a constant offset, they WILL have the same track width when it come to measurin at the TREAD. which is where the pivot point on a rollover would happen. How hard is this to grasp? Do I need to draw a picture for you fellas???
#31
#32
#37
Oh my god!
I'm glad Gil was here for his input. Truely, I am.
It seems the people posting on here without real offroad experience seem to be the ones posting all the misinformation you'll find cluttered about this thread. Street tires and wheels are WAY WAY WAY different than offroad tires and wheels, and also how they need to be set up to perform properly.
15x8 wheels coupled with 12.50 tire widths are ideal for offroad setups. This point has been made by many knowledeable people before me, so don't get the impression I sat around thinking of ways to call you stupid.
The 8" width puts less compound leverage on the axle than does a 10" wheel, which increases lifetime, reduces fatigue, and finally general wear and tear. You can also run significantly lower pressures while offroad and maintain a bead.
If you insist on getting 10" wheels to run with your 12.50 tires for pure aesthetics, I can accept that. But I will never agree with and will ALWAYS argue against 10" wheels being more functional in an offroad scene with 12.50 tires.
And if you saw horrible tire mileage when you ran your 12.50s and 8" wheels, that is your fault. Careless driving (ie burnouts), improper pressures and improper balancing all helped to destroy your tires. NOT the wheel.
I'm glad Gil was here for his input. Truely, I am.
It seems the people posting on here without real offroad experience seem to be the ones posting all the misinformation you'll find cluttered about this thread. Street tires and wheels are WAY WAY WAY different than offroad tires and wheels, and also how they need to be set up to perform properly.
15x8 wheels coupled with 12.50 tire widths are ideal for offroad setups. This point has been made by many knowledeable people before me, so don't get the impression I sat around thinking of ways to call you stupid.
The 8" width puts less compound leverage on the axle than does a 10" wheel, which increases lifetime, reduces fatigue, and finally general wear and tear. You can also run significantly lower pressures while offroad and maintain a bead.
If you insist on getting 10" wheels to run with your 12.50 tires for pure aesthetics, I can accept that. But I will never agree with and will ALWAYS argue against 10" wheels being more functional in an offroad scene with 12.50 tires.
And if you saw horrible tire mileage when you ran your 12.50s and 8" wheels, that is your fault. Careless driving (ie burnouts), improper pressures and improper balancing all helped to destroy your tires. NOT the wheel.
#40
Originally Posted by DownSouthTAS
"It seems the people posting on here without real offroad experience seem to be the ones posting all the misinformation you'll find cluttered about this thread. "
real off road experience haha .... your funny
Originally Posted by DownSouthTAS
"And if you saw horrible tire mileage when you ran your 12.50s and 8" wheels, that is your fault. Careless driving (ie burnouts), improper pressures and improper balancing all helped to destroy your tires. NOT the wheel."
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