So it's been a while since I've been on here or done much to my truck and it's time to mod it finally, I have a 2010 2wd sport Ranger, I'm just doing a small mod I ordered some 2"lift keys for the front of my torsions and 3" rear blocks, I need 4 u bolts for the rear but dont know the exact diameter and length and other then that I just need to rent a tool to take the load off the stock keys, any suggestions or tips on my project like how I should do the rear take off the tires re torque the u bolts after etc etc... any input or suggestions would be greatly appreciated thanks all!

 

You already have blocks in the back....those were a waste of money. DO NOT stack blocks. You should do a short Add-A-Leaf and a Belltech 6400 shackle. This will get you approx 3-3.5" lift. The other option is getting 95-01/05 Explorer multi-leaves. These give you GREAT ride quality while providing approx 2.5" rear lift. They're a direct swap. Both methods require new rear shocks.

Ideally, you should have purchased 3" lift spindles. Buying new keys, while they do provide lift, they also cost you down-travel, ride quality, and ball joints. CV's take a toll big time if you had those, but you don't. Lift spindles are a far better investment in the long run.

BUT....to answer your key installation questions, get the truck up on stands from the frame. Loosen everything up like the tie rod ends, sway bar links, shocks(upper or lower, just one end), calipers. Use your floor jack to hold the lower control arm up while you remove the torsion bar adjustment bolt. Remove upper ball joint from steering knuckle and this should allow you enough downward travel of the control arm to remove the "nut" that the adjustment bolt threads into. Once that's out, you can drop the key and slide the torsion bar and key out from the lower control arm. It may make it easier to loosen the lower control arm frame mounts...just remember to tighten them back up when the truck is sitting on it's feet again. Installation is reverse and can be a little cumbersome, but this method uses NO special tools, and is the safest technique. I do not have a how-to or ever intend to, alot of it is pulling the wheels and seeing what needs removed to make the truck "droop" out to it's fullest and beyond to relieve tension off the keys.

Be careful on your adjustment bolt pre-load once she's all put back together. Note: you likely will not be able to get a proper alignment after the installation of lift torsion keys.



Proper research prior to purchasing parts would have helped a great deal here.

 

Thanks for the info I appreciate it all! Ill be adding these blocks they were cheap when the old ones come out this will at least add 1.5 inches more the stock ones have 1.5inch of lift and these are 3" so its going up a total of 1.5 but I will add the shackles and im putting the larger u bolts on to accomidate the add a leafs there pretty cheap too but ill be having a professional install the leafs after the winter. and thanks for the part number on the shackles im having problems sourcing some this helps me a lot! I am adding the keys and thanks for the in depth explanation of how to prep to install thm, and I will eventually add spindles once I get the rear up where I want it ill change the spindles.

 

But are those add a leaf's going to make my truck really rigid??

 

No where near as rigid as the lift keys will. They stiffened it up some when I put them on, and some actually like it. Choosing good shocks will definitely help the minimal added stiffness. I saw 1.5" actual lift the ProComp's linked below.

Link: http://www.summitracing.com/parts/exp-13120/overview/



When sourcing your shackles, don't be shocked by seeing they're 2" lowering shackles for a Chevy. Rangers and 1/2 ton 88-98 Chevy's share the same spring widths and both trucks shackle positioning is opposite....so a Chevy lowering shackle will lift a Ranger. You don't have to get Belltech, there are other 2" chevy lowering shackles out there for cheaper...but not much cheaper. I saw 1.5" actual lift with 6400's. You can also choose the second to the bottom holes to get approx 3/4" lift too.

Link: http://www.summitracing.com/parts/bel-6400



The reason to re-use the stock block or replace it with a 98-07 4x4 2.5" block is because it is part of your bump stop. Aluminum blocks are bad news bears in most cases because they are so soft and susceptible to cracking. Your current block should be about 1.5".

 

Yeah Ive heard somewhere, that the shackles are a lowering shackle but its how you put them on or something just use them like there going on like the stock ones, and I may not max out the keys to their fullest for that reason too! Thats good about the leafs ill probobally have them put on in the same installation as the shackles! I dont mind a solid feel on the road but I dont want the truck super rigid in the winter and get zero traction. I'm also wanting these keys so I dont break the stock ones Ive heard of a few guys maxing theirs out around here on a facebook web site so I like the idea of these after market ones "claiming" to be more durable, but there not the most expensive thing I could do to the truck either!What shocks do I go with which ones will be longer for the rear and when the spindles get put on or do I just tell the guy at the parts store how much total lift is involved and go from there????

 

Also the blocks I put in are 3" forged not aluminum and theres a great difference especially with the sand bags in it for the winter its only a total of 1.5" increase but visually noticeable and they went in very easily! No bump stops but I hope not to ever have to need the bump stop im attacking the keys on sunday, and I have decided to add a leaf in the future its cheaper and more useful for my truck!