Suspension Tech General discussion of suspension for the Ford Ranger.

SuperLift Install Problems

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  #1  
Old 08-25-2009
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SuperLift Install Problems

OK, I know SEARCH IT OUT... and there are a ga-zillion posts on the lift install but I am lazy and thought one post with any problem you may have run into would be helpful. Not only to me (my lift is coming) but to others you might be thinking about the kit.

The Main Topic:
Are there any problems that anyone has run into while installing the SuperLift Booty Drive Kit (98-09 Rangers) K-358 ?
Give us a run down, what happened, what you did to correct it, what to watch for ?

Let's not turn this thread to a repair posting, just what happened; we can start separate post(s) on the problems if needed.

Thanks ahead of time,
 
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Old 08-25-2009
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the sway bar end links will be bad. i can promise you they will clunk. just dont put them on to begin with and youll be ok. if you feel the need to put them on, go somewhere and get some decent poly bushings for the end links and be done with it. superlifts links are a joke...

oh and they designed it to put a block on top of the stock block....what a dumb idea.


thats all i got. no other problems here
 
  #3  
Old 08-25-2009
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For the rear end I did an aal and shackles... You don't want 5" of lift blocks...the endlinks suck. I couldn't get shocks from superlift so I welded in shock hoops and I'm running fox reservoir shocks...
 
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Old 08-25-2009
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Originally Posted by SparkYZ
For the rear end I did an aal and shackles... You don't want 5" of lift blocks...the endlinks suck. I couldn't get shocks from superlift so I welded in shock hoops and I'm running fox reservoir shocks...

their shocks dont last long anyway.....was a good upgrade on your part..
 
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Old 08-25-2009
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i had a hell of a time removing the diff housing bolts to install the drop down brackets. The bolts stripped so i had to use a "bolt out" kit.. Replace all ball joints(upper and lowers) if i were you. Maybe tie rod ends too, why not lol... follow the instructions to the T, they were very helpful with my install and make sure you have all the right tools.... AIR TOOLS and PB BLASTER will be your friend during this install.. I didnt use too much air but when i needed it, it came in handy!
 
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Old 08-25-2009
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Originally Posted by shadow905
their shocks dont last long anyway.....was a good upgrade on your part..
Im sporting there shocks in the rear for over a year now and ive had NOOO problems with them!! :-P
 
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Old 08-25-2009
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shoot i ran them for over 2 years. and still have them in the rear. my front ones wore out kinda quick.. guess thats from all the travel(ha!)
 
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Old 08-25-2009
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yea well the rears dont move as much as the fronts dooo.. Those leaf springs do cushion the blow a lot to those shocks.
 
  #9  
Old 08-25-2009
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How are you lifting the rear?? I would stay away from the lift blocks superlift puts in their kits.. I would like to see all the parts you are using before i give you a run down on what to expect.
 
  #10  
Old 08-25-2009
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For the rear, I used Skyjacker Softride 6" lift leaf springs (no blocks). I would suggest that you do something similar to stay away from using two lift blocks. Also, I have heard that the Superlift shocks are not that great. I did not get shocks anyway so I went with Fox coilover emulsions for the front and non-coilover for the rear. For the sway bar links, I made my own using grade 8 equivalent all thread, pipe, and poly bushings. I opted not to replace ball joints or tie rod ends due to my Ranger being a 2008, but depending on the year of your Ranger this is something you might consider. When it is all said and done I might go ahead and replace them anyway when I install the coilovers.
 
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Old 08-25-2009
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WTF is the SuperLift Booty Drive Kit?

I had no problems with mine at all during the install. Everything else I wanted to say has been covered. (shackle, AAL = approx 3" of lift, superlift blocks give about 3" of lift as well. I sure as hell wasn't going to stack blocks.)




Something I want to add: once it's back on the road, ALWAYS carry the proper tools to remove your front shaft. I had a $250 bill for the tow from work to home because I didn't have my Torx sockets when that front shaft's rear joint was binding on me and making the truck shake and feels like the front end is falling apart. Thank God for AAA. Or, just get the Superlift shaft right off the bat.
 
  #12  
Old 08-25-2009
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or go front dshaft less till you do. Mine went out and spit grease everywhere and i had to have it towed home 77 miles. I have AAA unlimited so i was good, didnt have to pay for the tow, just saying its not worth it
 
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Old 08-25-2009
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Originally Posted by ranger
or go front dshaft less till you do. Mine went out and spit grease everywhere and i had to have it towed home 77 miles. I have AAA unlimited so i was good, didnt have to pay for the tow, just saying its not worth it

mine just clicked for a couple days until i finally took it off. i didnt really care cuz i wanted to kepe muddin. lol. figured i would use it til it broke. just kept throwin greese in there cuz the boot was broken
 
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Old 08-25-2009
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I got less than 5,000 miles out of my stocker after the lift install. And my little brother refused to drive an hour to bring me my sockets so I can actually go to work.
 
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Old 08-25-2009
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Originally Posted by Fx4wannabe01
I got less than 5,000 miles out of my stocker after the lift install. And my little brother refused to drive an hour to bring me my sockets so I can actually go to work.

that sucks. what DS are you running now?
 
  #16  
Old 08-25-2009
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Explorer that's been shortened, then the same adaptor that comes with the Superlift shaft. Basically, I made my own Superlift shaft for less then 3/4 the price. Can be done for less than 1/2 if you use a junkyard shaft. I went brand spankin' New Old Stock.

There's a thread called "Front Drive Shaft".
 
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