You are acting like something has to be engineered. a FLAT plate of metal welded to the LCA is all that is needed. Anyone that is capable of welding the gussets to the frame is more than capable of doing this

 

I'm not saying you're wrong, Brad.

A lot of guys will probably do just what you suggest and be fine.

I'm trying to save other people the trouble of having to improvise and fabricate stuff that could be added to the standard kit, Shawn willing. The overall coilover mod is plenty expensive and time consuming as it is. Everyone with a Superlift would be better off with a standard solution that's part of the kit, assuming the costs work out. That's why I'm asking the question.

 

Ecrase 2500 you have no up travel because you have the extended eyelets. Me

Brad and I went through this when we did ours. I have done 2 stock height rangers now and both are the same. You have no up travel if you try to run the extended eyelets.

 

And for my bump stops this time I didn't cut the bracket off flush to the frame. Their is no reason too. Only a small part of it is in the way of the coil. My bumpstop hits on the lca really well now.

 

Hey Chris, up travel must be someone else - my truck is superlifted and travel is fine with extended eyelets.

What kind of coils are you running? I had to grind my bump stop brackets a second time because they weren't quite flush with the frame the first time, and that was enough for the coils to rub. Can you post a pic of your setup?

 

Yup. Sorry. It was mr blewregaurd. Yes I'll post some pics when I get home. I have no super lift though. So it probably brings you're coil closer to the frame with the lift.

 

I'm running eibach 750 pound coils now that I have the v8. I had 650 pound eibach coils when I had the 4.0 still. They weren't stiff enough. I did some research about pre load and most everything I read said you should have as little preload as possible for it to work the best. Not more than an inch of preload

 

Could you post everything you needed to do for standard height?
I have the brackets, but have not done anything with them as my math told me that extended eyelets would be an issue. With people having issues with the non-extended eyelets not clearing the front CV joint with 4x4 I had an issue both ways.
I didn't want to outlay the cash and then have my truck out of commission while I sort out the issue.

Thanks for confirming that 750lb springs work great with a v8 motor.

 

It clears the c.f. shaft with no problem. And if u have aftermarket cv shafts like carquest they clear even easier. I needed new upper ball joints and uca's so I brought a set of aftermarket tubular adjustable uca's. They were 500$ I think. So about double the price of moog. But I knew I would be able to get the top of my tire out far enough to properly align it. The uca's are from a place called airbagit. I've heard horror stories about them but all I brought was these uca's and they are nice. The ball joint and the bushings are greaseable. I also brought stainless steel brake lines because the stock rubber one's rubbed on the coil. I brought those for a 99 jeep cj with a 4 inch lift. 60$ or 70$. Limit straps and the adjustable ends so that when they stretch I can easily adjust those. Plus then I don't have to be perfect where I weld the brackets on.that's all u have to buy.it was under 100$ for the limit straps and ends I brought from summit are trail gear brand. 6 ply.

 

Shocks from down south motor sports. Fox remote reservoir. 5 inch travel. Part # 980-02-040. I believe I played 579.90$ for both. The emulsion are cheaper but I figured what's a little more at this point to have the remote res.

 

Finally got her done. Coilovers and a 4 inch spindle in the front. Might do 2 inch shackle in the rear.

 

I'm definitely interested in seeing pictures of this installed. I did some slight tweaking of the shock location from my prototypes to the production units, but I could not get my shocks in at all without cutting the bump stop mounts back, so I'm curious about you not having to cut yours.

Also, I keep hearing this issue of not needing extended rod ends, which I find very interesting. I am using Strange Engineering shocks, but they're still 2" shocks and 2.5" springs. I had to make custom rod ends for mine to clear the CV joints because Strange doesn't make them, but I have a hard time believing there is enough difference in the ends of the shocks to make fitment different.

I may have to get myself a Fox shock and try a production unit on my truck. These comments have me wondering.

 

Finished my conversion a few weeks ago on a stock height B4000. I can also confirm that extended eyelets are not needed for fox shocks and would actually hinder performance in a stock height application.

As for the bump stops, i ground them flush with the frame like others have done. It looks like you may be able to get away with taking off less though, it would just make for a really tight installation of the coilover.

Overall I'm pretty happy with the conversion, the quality of the brackets were top notch. Only things i need to change are my spring rate and valving. Currently sitting on 650lb coils and thinking i need to go up to 750lbs. I've got about 2 3/4" of preload (measured from top of main adjuster nut to where threads start on shock body) and I'm sitting just a hair higher than stock tbars w/ minimal crank. Any higher and i would be running into coil bind issues fast. Also looking for valving suggestions, i ordered my coilovers direct from fox and did not get them custom valved like guys who got them from DSM did. Ride feels a little bouncy, thinking i need more rebound dampening. Anyone know what DSM valves their foxes too?

 

Someone that's making these brackets email me at grk_taz@hotmail.com please thanks :)

 

I didn't say that I didn't cut mine at all. I just said I didn't cut the whole thing off flush. the only part that needs to be flush is at the front of the bracket where its closest to the coil. From their I just cut at an angle. I can still fit my hand between the bumpstop and coil. It works much better than the first one I did where I just mowed the whole thing off flush cuz then the bumpstop doesn't hit on the control arm as good. Sorry the truck is so dirty, I didn't have time to wash it. I just quick took the pics. I cant find the ones I took before and sorry it took me so long to post them. I thought I did it for some reason.

 

I found the other pics. The bumpstops are from summit racing. Energy suspension, part # ens-9-9143r. 29$. They measure 3 1/8" tall, 2 7/16" diameter. They work fantastic on stock height truck. I cant remember how much I cut off. They step down in diameter on the end so I just kept cutting a section off and checking the down travel with only the shock in until I had it where I wanted it.

 

Kind of off topic but does anyone know who has the truck that posted pics of his top shock bracket and used the orw 5/8" urethane bushing on his fox shock instead of the spherical bearing and spacers. I think it was this thread but I cant find the post and pic. This thread is too big to look through the whole thing again. I think he said he switched to that bushing because it was squeaking the other way. I was thinking of trying that route cuz the winter months are brutal on those spherical bearings up where I live.

 

hey guys im new here and was wondering where are you getting your conversion brackets or is there still a kit being produced that im not aware of thanks guys

 

Guys take a peek at my build thread. I have a bump stop solution for the coilover conversion that seems to work great. No deflection under a heavy hit or loading. Using the daystar extended bump stops, I basically built cups on the lower arms that catch the bottom of the bumpstop when contact is made. So long as they arent hardpacked with years of mud buildup, the bumpstop sits inside of the cup and cannot deflect. I prefer this to bumpstops on the shock shaft. It take the majority of the load off the shock tower and gussets under heavy loading.

https://www.ranger-forums.com/genera...ed-etc-147622/

Also, to mimic what ecrase said, the extended eyelets do not impede travel on a superlifted truck.

Something else I want to note. I run 750 lb Eibachs on my coilovers, and I have what seems like much more that 1" of preload in them. They took more than a few weeks to settle. It effed my alignment and I drove too long like that. I just re-adjusted the ride height and re-aligned it when I had the fox shocks tuned and was replacing a few other parts down there. I am keeping a closer eye on it, but fear more the extra preload, the coils are going to continue settling even more. Is this typical?

 

I have the 750 pound eibach coils as well and mine didn't settle much. They been on since april. I have 1 inch of preload when the front wheels are at full down travel. And I think that's a good idea for the bumpstop on the lifted trucks.

 

Hmm. Just checked my ride height and it seems to be holding since the last alignment a few weeks ago. Looking at some pictures, I actually think my preload is just fine also.

Since the common theme with the coilover conversion is a superlift and rear leafs, what rear shocks are everyone running? I had the crappy superlift ones on for a bit. Then switched to some skyjackers I got on sale at summit for $30 for the pair. Both sets suck, and I want to get some quality shocks, but am having trouble finding rear shocks by say, Fox, King or Bilstein in the 31" extended to 18" collapsed range. Also, with the right eyelet bushing size. What are you guys running? I have the FR36 skyjacker leafs with no blocks and the stock shackles.

 

I got Fox remote reservoir. They are 10 inch travel. Same as stock cuz I don't got a lift. I have deaver f31 leaf packs. I love them. I have no blocks and my shackles flipped. It would have lifted it about 4 inches probably if I wouldn't have flipped the shackles. Rides bad ***. I payed 229$ a piece i think for the shocks in back.

 

Mine are part number 980-24-032. They are 26.1 extended and 16.1 collapsed. I got them at down south motorsports where I got my front ones. I think the **** Monroe shocks I took off had 11 inch of travel. Fox has an 11 inch travel shock that's 28.1 extended, 17.1 collapsed. I couldn't use them cuz the collapsed length was a little to long. I'll keep looking, I'm sure they have a shock the length you want. I personally thought it was pointless to put the good shocks on the front and then not put them on the back also.

 

Those are likely too short. The stock Superlift shocks are 30.07" ext./17.70" collapsed, and with my leafs, I am about 1" taller than that. 31" ext./18.5" collapsed would be around the right spot. I know what you are saying too. Even with the fox's up front still tuned slightly stiff, the difference between the front and rear with crappy rears is extremely noticeable. It is #1 on the to do list of upgrades right now.

 

Ya they are definitely too short I would imagine.