Coilover Brackets by ME00stepside (NO LONGER AVAILABLE AS OF 7/23/2021)
#1801
Mike, I actually agree with you on going lighter, but most guys around here seem to want the heavier side of the scale. Personally, I'm putting 500 lb coils on my truck that has no added weight. The 600 lb springs were too stiff for me.
I'm starting to also think that the ratings are not accurate accross some of the spring manufacturers. It's the only thing that makes sense when hearing all of the different setups and results.
I'm starting to also think that the ratings are not accurate accross some of the spring manufacturers. It's the only thing that makes sense when hearing all of the different setups and results.
As for the various differences I have a few theory's
Things to keep in mind are leverage ratio and what spring ratings actually mean.
A 600lb spring is rated becuse it takes 600lbs of force to compress the spring 1". So you will see a different ride and behavior between a 10" 12" and 18" spring due to the lengths, taller spring will be "stiffer" becuse the percentage the spring is compressed is less. Or 1in is 8% of the length of a 12" and 10% of a 10"
Then leverage plays in. The guys with DBR kits run a much larger arm with a larger stroke this results in a near stock leverage ratio (shock stroke to travel)
If you run longer arms with a stock size coilover your leverage ratio increase thus needing more spring rate to compensate.
This is where the difference comes in from various user accounts. There are a ton of other factors that go into this but this is the simple answer.
Last edited by mikerider; 04-17-2015 at 10:34 AM.
#1802
I agree with ya, I may step down to a 500 from my 600s on my DBR kit.
As for the various differences I have a few theory's
Things to keep in mind are leverage ratio and what spring ratings actually mean.
A 600lb spring is rated becuse it takes 600lbs of force to compress the spring 1". So you will see a different ride and behavior between a 10" 12" and 18" spring due to the lengths, taller spring will be "stiffer" becuse the percentage the spring is compressed is less. Or 1in is 8% of the length of a 12" and 10% of a 10"
Then leverage plays in. The guys with DBR kits run a much larger arm with a larger stroke this results in a near stock leverage ratio (shock stroke to travel)
If you run longer arms with a stock size coilover your leverage ratio increase thus needing more spring rate to compensate.
This is where the difference comes in from various user accounts. There are a ton of other factors that go into this but this is the simple answer.
As for the various differences I have a few theory's
Things to keep in mind are leverage ratio and what spring ratings actually mean.
A 600lb spring is rated becuse it takes 600lbs of force to compress the spring 1". So you will see a different ride and behavior between a 10" 12" and 18" spring due to the lengths, taller spring will be "stiffer" becuse the percentage the spring is compressed is less. Or 1in is 8% of the length of a 12" and 10% of a 10"
Then leverage plays in. The guys with DBR kits run a much larger arm with a larger stroke this results in a near stock leverage ratio (shock stroke to travel)
If you run longer arms with a stock size coilover your leverage ratio increase thus needing more spring rate to compensate.
This is where the difference comes in from various user accounts. There are a ton of other factors that go into this but this is the simple answer.
also morris, the shock valving will not have an effect on the spring causing it to break.
#1803
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I'll agree on this at least with my setup. My 700s where slightly stiff with the stock arms, then when I added btf arms it provided leverage and softened up the front where it was nice. Adding a bumper added enough weight where I had coil bind on hard dips and cornering off road. My new 800 lb springs provide the ability to not bind up but still have a good ride with all the leverage on my coils. No more bind now and feels more planted. But if I had longer shocks and hoops I'd set it back to 600 since the leverage would be less
#1804
Been looking at this thread for going on a year now or so. Time to change out dead Superlift shocks in the front. Would really like to get rid of the T-bars but the time issue for me is a problem. Another issue is that I don't have a garage where I live. I will soon have another vehicle, so that's no a concern. On a scale of 1-10, with 10 being the hardest, how hard is this project. Mind you, when I had a garage, I have pulled my trans 5r55e and did a partial rebuild, I have installed lockers front and rear and did my Superlift install about 11 yrs ago. Thanks
#1805
Been looking at this thread for going on a year now or so. Time to change out dead Superlift shocks in the front. Would really like to get rid of the T-bars but the time issue for me is a problem. Another issue is that I don't have a garage where I live. I will soon have another vehicle, so that's no a concern. On a scale of 1-10, with 10 being the hardest, how hard is this project. Mind you, when I had a garage, I have pulled my trans 5r55e and did a partial rebuild, I have installed lockers front and rear and did my Superlift install about 11 yrs ago. Thanks
basics are remove T bars and drop brackets, cut off bump stop mounts, mount brackets, mount coilovers, tack in braces, remove coilovers, finish weld, paint, re install coilovers, install new bump stops and limit straps.
easy enough.
#1806
#1807
#1808
with the fox setup, say 650 lb. springs, do you get any more droop than stock? how much better articulation do you get...........I know the main reason for me to want to do this modification is to get rid of the toraion bars and hangers, since I plan on super lifting mine...........I reall do want to read this whole thread,.....and will, but can ya help a guy out?
thanks
thanks
#1809
with the fox setup, say 650 lb. springs, do you get any more droop than stock? how much better articulation do you get...........I know the main reason for me to want to do this modification is to get rid of the toraion bars and hangers, since I plan on super lifting mine...........I reall do want to read this whole thread,.....and will, but can ya help a guy out?
thanks
thanks
#1810
#1812
#1814
#1818
#1819
At stock length the inner tripod joint of the cv binds around 9" of travel. Make sure to run limit straps and good bumpstops if your going to push the truck
#1820
X2 on limit straps. And get heavy duty ones. Mine stretched a good bit under load and it was a pain to get them adjusted right because of it.
I looked into upgraded CV half-shafts to get a little more travel but for the price it didn't seem worth it. The ball joints are going to bind next but you could upgrade them next I suppose to a different style.
I looked into upgraded CV half-shafts to get a little more travel but for the price it didn't seem worth it. The ball joints are going to bind next but you could upgrade them next I suppose to a different style.
#1821
All straps will stretch about an inch it's a good idea to install an adjustable clevis on the strap so you can tighten it as the strap grows.
#1822
Yes I definitely want to get the adjustable clevis for this reason. About what size strap should I get for a non-super lifted application?
#1823
#1825
I couldn't actually find them on a website but when I called DSMS to place my order, they were able to add them and even install for free.