Coilover Brackets by ME00stepside (NO LONGER AVAILABLE AS OF 7/23/2021)
#953
Checkout the cut area to the left of the coilover (just above the CV boot) in this picture Getrdone52 posted:
Last edited by logan03CO; 02-13-2013 at 04:53 PM.
#955
#957
This would definitely help in a cranked situation, but the problem is the angle it sits at, because any further travel just brings it in toward the coil very quickly.
#958
im a little late to the party, but ill still add my comments. from what i can find in the searches a 3.0L is about 350lbs. the 4.0L is 450lbs.
might be enough to go to a softer spring for the guy who is maxed out. i was gonna say adjust your preload however, i saw you posted the pic of your springs and realized they are not 10" springs.
i also want to clear up, mikerider has very long bumpstops. afaik he's super lifted no? a stock truck would need a much smaller bumpstop. such as thesehttp://www.daystarweb.com/productdetail.php?productID=653
this previous comment reminds me of a question that came to mind, how does ones figure out how much preload to put when doing the swap?
another question after reading the last two pages, what constitutes a "HD skid plate'? i have one that is heavier then stock but it wouldnt consider it something offered by ARP.
ME, i forget if it was you or someone else (and dont feel like going back the page as im gonna loose my train of thought) but someone said they are not happy with the stiffness of their rear now.
this is something i thought of when i sat down with rob to discuss how we were gonna do this.
i just got my ranchos last year but im gonna swap them out for some foxes to match the front.
i havent purchased my softer springs yet as i wanna wait and order all i need at once and that is gonna be a larger purchase. i plan on ordering my straps, bumpstops, softer coils rear shocks and maybe leafs and a couple other items. i was thinking of getting a 700 and seeing if they settle to my liking. worst case, i buy a 650 set and sell the 700s. i like a stiffer ride tho but i told my buddy what is was gonna do and he said "its gonna ride like a caddy!"
might be enough to go to a softer spring for the guy who is maxed out. i was gonna say adjust your preload however, i saw you posted the pic of your springs and realized they are not 10" springs.
i also want to clear up, mikerider has very long bumpstops. afaik he's super lifted no? a stock truck would need a much smaller bumpstop. such as thesehttp://www.daystarweb.com/productdetail.php?productID=653
this previous comment reminds me of a question that came to mind, how does ones figure out how much preload to put when doing the swap?
another question after reading the last two pages, what constitutes a "HD skid plate'? i have one that is heavier then stock but it wouldnt consider it something offered by ARP.
ME, i forget if it was you or someone else (and dont feel like going back the page as im gonna loose my train of thought) but someone said they are not happy with the stiffness of their rear now.
this is something i thought of when i sat down with rob to discuss how we were gonna do this.
i just got my ranchos last year but im gonna swap them out for some foxes to match the front.
i havent purchased my softer springs yet as i wanna wait and order all i need at once and that is gonna be a larger purchase. i plan on ordering my straps, bumpstops, softer coils rear shocks and maybe leafs and a couple other items. i was thinking of getting a 700 and seeing if they settle to my liking. worst case, i buy a 650 set and sell the 700s. i like a stiffer ride tho but i told my buddy what is was gonna do and he said "its gonna ride like a caddy!"
#960
To get it on a current page:
New list:
SteelDirigible - powdercoated
RLong31 - powdercoated
Kit with powdercoated brackets: $290
Kit with raw brackets: $270
Shipping:
$17 US
$46 Canada
Kit includes:
4 brackets (2 upper, 2 lower)
4 gussets to reinforce shock tower
2 shock tower spacers for upper mounts
8 rod end spacers (for 1/2" wide rod ends--like Fox)
all hardware to install--grade 8 zinc plated
Kit with raw brackets: $270
Shipping:
$17 US
$46 Canada
Kit includes:
4 brackets (2 upper, 2 lower)
4 gussets to reinforce shock tower
2 shock tower spacers for upper mounts
8 rod end spacers (for 1/2" wide rod ends--like Fox)
all hardware to install--grade 8 zinc plated
SteelDirigible - powdercoated
RLong31 - powdercoated
#961
Let me run this by you all and see if you have any insight, if my 12inch springs are to stiff causing the truck to ride to high like getrdone's truck, but having 650s 10inch in his truck now causes him to sit 1inch above stock and looks like from his picture really reduces the amount of travel left in the shock. Would having really soft 12s say 500lb let the truck sit level while taking advantage of better travel and inprove the ride better than a cranked down 10inch spring?
#962
Let me run this by you all and see if you have any insight, if my 12inch springs are to stiff causing the truck to ride to high like getrdone's truck, but having 650s 10inch in his truck now causes him to sit 1inch above stock and looks like from his picture really reduces the amount of travel left in the shock. Would having really soft 12s say 500lb let the truck sit level while taking advantage of better travel and improve the ride better than a cranked down 10inch spring?
Finally I got everything done and it is much better. I kinda wish the 650's were a little softer but I am happy with them. Hopefully they soften up a bit in a few months. One thing happened while install though, the truck was jacked up and i was turning the steering wheel to get better access to bolts and stuff, and all of a sudden power steering fluid shot out of the cap (literally on to the hood) and got everywhere. (That's what's in the fender in the first pic) and now I've noticed when I turn right at like 30 mph (like on ramp on a highway) it shakes pretty bad, kinda like the jeeps death wobble if any of you are familiar with that. I just thought that was weird. I'm going to get an alignment this weekend and that may be the problem but I will have to wait and see. Anyways on with the pics
I messed up my paint job on the welds because I was in a hurry to get them on and scratched them but it's ok.
Oh and I need to adjust my coils, my truck shrunk almost to stock height haha
Before
After
Before
After
#963
I did some suspension travel testing on mine last weekend. First I removed the torsion bars so I could travel the suspension without moving the truck off the jack stands. The first limiting factor was my shocks. With the shocks removed the CV joints started binding and with a cv joint remove finally the upper ball joint ran out of travel.
So with the longer travel shocks you have your CV joint will be binding anytime your suspension travels down very far.
So with the longer travel shocks you have your CV joint will be binding anytime your suspension travels down very far.
#964
Good! Glad to hear it's better!
Just to clear it all up - It looks like you ended up going with a 10" spring setup?
After seeing your pictures the other week - I'm betting most people will have 'issues' running a 12" spring on a stock height truck - regardless of the desired spring weight.
Yep - That's why we recommend running limit straps - to prevent the suspension from overextending itself.
Just to clear it all up - It looks like you ended up going with a 10" spring setup?
After seeing your pictures the other week - I'm betting most people will have 'issues' running a 12" spring on a stock height truck - regardless of the desired spring weight.
Yep - That's why we recommend running limit straps - to prevent the suspension from overextending itself.
Last edited by logan03CO; 02-20-2013 at 06:27 PM.
#965
I have a feeling my post was missed. There is a some good points and questions in it so. I quoted it. I long read I know but I feel it's worth it.
im a little late to the party, but ill still add my comments. from what i can find in the searches a 3.0L is about 350lbs. the 4.0L is 450lbs.
might be enough to go to a softer spring for the guy who is maxed out. i was gonna say adjust your preload however, i saw you posted the pic of your springs and realized they are not 10" springs.
i also want to clear up, mikerider has very long bumpstops. afaik he's super lifted no? a stock truck would need a much smaller bumpstop. such as thesehttp://www.daystarweb.com/productdetail.php?productID=653
this previous comment reminds me of a question that came to mind, how does ones figure out how much preload to put when doing the swap?
another question after reading the last two pages, what constitutes a "HD skid plate'? i have one that is heavier then stock but it wouldnt consider it something offered by ARP.
ME, i forget if it was you or someone else (and dont feel like going back the page as im gonna loose my train of thought) but someone said they are not happy with the stiffness of their rear now.
this is something i thought of when i sat down with rob to discuss how we were gonna do this.
i just got my ranchos last year but im gonna swap them out for some foxes to match the front.
i havent purchased my softer springs yet as i wanna wait and order all i need at once and that is gonna be a larger purchase. i plan on ordering my straps, bumpstops, softer coils rear shocks and maybe leafs and a couple other items. i was thinking of getting a 700 and seeing if they settle to my liking. worst case, i buy a 650 set and sell the 700s. i like a stiffer ride tho but i told my buddy what is was gonna do and he said "its gonna ride like a caddy!"
might be enough to go to a softer spring for the guy who is maxed out. i was gonna say adjust your preload however, i saw you posted the pic of your springs and realized they are not 10" springs.
i also want to clear up, mikerider has very long bumpstops. afaik he's super lifted no? a stock truck would need a much smaller bumpstop. such as thesehttp://www.daystarweb.com/productdetail.php?productID=653
this previous comment reminds me of a question that came to mind, how does ones figure out how much preload to put when doing the swap?
another question after reading the last two pages, what constitutes a "HD skid plate'? i have one that is heavier then stock but it wouldnt consider it something offered by ARP.
ME, i forget if it was you or someone else (and dont feel like going back the page as im gonna loose my train of thought) but someone said they are not happy with the stiffness of their rear now.
this is something i thought of when i sat down with rob to discuss how we were gonna do this.
i just got my ranchos last year but im gonna swap them out for some foxes to match the front.
i havent purchased my softer springs yet as i wanna wait and order all i need at once and that is gonna be a larger purchase. i plan on ordering my straps, bumpstops, softer coils rear shocks and maybe leafs and a couple other items. i was thinking of getting a 700 and seeing if they settle to my liking. worst case, i buy a 650 set and sell the 700s. i like a stiffer ride tho but i told my buddy what is was gonna do and he said "its gonna ride like a caddy!"
#966
Good! Glad to hear it's better!
Just to clear it all up - It looks like you ended up going with a 10" spring setup?
After seeing your pictures the other week - I'm betting most people will have 'issues' running a 12" spring on a stock height truck - regardless of the desired spring weight.
Yep - That's why we recommend running limit straps - to prevent the suspension from overextending itself.
Just to clear it all up - It looks like you ended up going with a 10" spring setup?
After seeing your pictures the other week - I'm betting most people will have 'issues' running a 12" spring on a stock height truck - regardless of the desired spring weight.
Yep - That's why we recommend running limit straps - to prevent the suspension from overextending itself.
im a little late to the party, but ill still add my comments. from what i can find in the searches a 3.0L is about 350lbs. the 4.0L is 450lbs.
might be enough to go to a softer spring for the guy who is maxed out. i was gonna say adjust your preload however, i saw you posted the pic of your springs and realized they are not 10" springs.
might be enough to go to a softer spring for the guy who is maxed out. i was gonna say adjust your preload however, i saw you posted the pic of your springs and realized they are not 10" springs.
i also want to clear up, mikerider has very long bumpstops. afaik he's super lifted no? a stock truck would need a much smaller bumpstop. such as thesehttp://www.daystarweb.com/productdetail.php?productID=653
this previous comment reminds me of a question that came to mind, how does ones figure out how much preload to put when doing the swap?
another question after reading the last two pages, what constitutes a "HD skid plate'? i have one that is heavier then stock but it wouldnt consider it something offered by ARP.
another question after reading the last two pages, what constitutes a "HD skid plate'? i have one that is heavier then stock but it wouldnt consider it something offered by ARP.
As for the skid plate I'm not sure.
ME, i forget if it was you or someone else (and dont feel like going back the page as im gonna loose my train of thought) but someone said they are not happy with the stiffness of their rear now.
this is something i thought of when i sat down with rob to discuss how we were gonna do this.
i just got my ranchos last year but im gonna swap them out for some foxes to match the front.
i havent purchased my softer springs yet as i wanna wait and order all i need at once and that is gonna be a larger purchase. i plan on ordering my straps, bumpstops, softer coils rear shocks and maybe leafs and a couple other items. i was thinking of getting a 700 and seeing if they settle to my liking. worst case, i buy a 650 set and sell the 700s. i like a stiffer ride tho but i told my buddy what is was gonna do and he said "its gonna ride like a caddy!"
this is something i thought of when i sat down with rob to discuss how we were gonna do this.
i just got my ranchos last year but im gonna swap them out for some foxes to match the front.
i havent purchased my softer springs yet as i wanna wait and order all i need at once and that is gonna be a larger purchase. i plan on ordering my straps, bumpstops, softer coils rear shocks and maybe leafs and a couple other items. i was thinking of getting a 700 and seeing if they settle to my liking. worst case, i buy a 650 set and sell the 700s. i like a stiffer ride tho but i told my buddy what is was gonna do and he said "its gonna ride like a caddy!"
#967
I also have some limit strap pictures for those of you looking for options.
My last set up was 100% bolt on and worked OK but I managed to bend my mounting clevises to the point of not being functional.
so now that I have a welder I changed them up
New vs old ( you can see the bend in the lower mounted clevis.)
the new set up uses a sleeve and standoffs that is welded to the frame next to the shock tower support bracket.
Lower tab mounted and burned in
all painted and tight ( this should be much more robust.)
Parts used
10in Limit strap (2)
Ruff Stuff Specialties limit strap bracket (2)
Poly Performance limit strap clevis with mounting sleeve (2)
#968
Yes I am Superlifted, but the TJ bumpstops I bought are trim to fit, my pasenger side is trimed 1/4" shorter to acount for the front diff brace that mounts in the same location on that side. If you want to run them you can, stokers will probably work fine relocated inward.
I also have some limit strap pictures for those of you looking for options.
My last set up was 100% bolt on and worked OK but I managed to bend my mounting clevises to the point of not being functional.
so now that I have a welder I changed them up
New vs old ( you can see the bend in the lower mounted clevis.)
the new set up uses a sleeve and standoffs that is welded to the frame next to the shock tower support bracket.
Lower tab mounted and burned in
all painted and tight ( this should be much more robust.)
Parts used
10in Limit strap (2)
Ruff Stuff Specialties limit strap bracket (2)
Poly Performance limit strap clevis with mounting sleeve (2)
I also have some limit strap pictures for those of you looking for options.
My last set up was 100% bolt on and worked OK but I managed to bend my mounting clevises to the point of not being functional.
so now that I have a welder I changed them up
New vs old ( you can see the bend in the lower mounted clevis.)
the new set up uses a sleeve and standoffs that is welded to the frame next to the shock tower support bracket.
Lower tab mounted and burned in
all painted and tight ( this should be much more robust.)
Parts used
10in Limit strap (2)
Ruff Stuff Specialties limit strap bracket (2)
Poly Performance limit strap clevis with mounting sleeve (2)
#969
re:coilover brackets
See, this is strange. I have the 5.5" travel shocks, and 10" springs. My truck sits maybe 2" higher than this right now, but I've got them adjusted as high as they can go, and I've got considerably more available downward travel in the shock than you appear to. We need to get a good comparison of the different shock brands and models, in their eyelet-to-eyelet measurements. There are definitely some major differences in them, even for what seem to be comparable models.
#970
#971
See, this is strange. I have the 5.5" travel shocks, and 10" springs. My truck sits maybe 2" higher than this right now, but I've got them adjusted as high as they can go, and I've got considerably more available downward travel in the shock than you appear to. We need to get a good comparison of the different shock brands and models, in their eyelet-to-eyelet measurements. There are definitely some major differences in them, even for what seem to be comparable models.
Do you have a pic of yours to compare?
I too am curious about the steering fluid incident but haven't received an answer yet. Maybe it was just a random thing.
#972
"Well when you turn the steering wheel without the truck running a lot of times it forces the power steering fluid out of the reservoir and it usually ends up all over the underside of the hood, battery and side of the engine. I bet if you look you’ll see the cap for the reservoir dislodged and loose. the reason the power steering acted funny at first was because all the fluid had been forced out of the system, into the reservoir and then out the cap, it just takes a minute to get the fluid back into the system. Just clean everything off, top off the fluid level and you’ll be good to go, no harm done, it’s just something these trucks do."
Last edited by logan03CO; 02-21-2013 at 07:03 PM.
#973
I looked around for a potential reason....and on the 'other' Ranger forum I found the following from a thread years back. It sounds like this is the ticket:
"Well when you turn the steering wheel without the truck running a lot of times it forces the power steering fluid out of the reservoir and it usually ends up all over the underside of the hood, battery and side of the engine. I bet if you look you’ll see the cap for the reservoir dislodged and loose. the reason the power steering acted funny at first was because all the fluid had been forced out of the system, into the reservoir and then out the cap, it just takes a minute to get the fluid back into the system. Just clean everything off, top off the fluid level and you’ll be good to go, no harm done, it’s just something these trucks do."
"Well when you turn the steering wheel without the truck running a lot of times it forces the power steering fluid out of the reservoir and it usually ends up all over the underside of the hood, battery and side of the engine. I bet if you look you’ll see the cap for the reservoir dislodged and loose. the reason the power steering acted funny at first was because all the fluid had been forced out of the system, into the reservoir and then out the cap, it just takes a minute to get the fluid back into the system. Just clean everything off, top off the fluid level and you’ll be good to go, no harm done, it’s just something these trucks do."
#975