So I was checking out 5 cents, I think that's the right one, thread on putting a dana 30 in his ranger which looks a lot like mine. It looks like he got a set of coil towers which you weld a long plate on side of frame, weld the bracket to the plate which also holds the steering box up front, then the tower can be bolted to the bracket and is adjustable. It also angles outward some away from frame since the could seats r a lil close to the frame. It does look a bit odd but if it works and is safe....anyone have any thoughts on this

 

When you use coils, instead of leafs, you also need radial arm or similar support to keep axle in line, if the point is simplicity then go with leafs
As long as you have the geometry right the coil springs will not "bow" out of line, so you don't need that much clearance

I am still trying to figure out why any one would swap a working IFS to a solid axle
Solid axle is simpler, way less parts so I wouldn't swap Solid to IFS, but IFS is all around a better setup for light trucks in either on-road or off-road use

Swapping Ranger 4WD to IRS(independent rear suspension) makes more sense to me, lol

Keeping 4 wheels FLAT on the ground is just better for power and steering, no way to argue that point.

Solid axles are a hot ticket now-a-days, and if I was constantly having to fix my IFS after a hard work out then yes, solid axle would be the ticket, with leaf springs!, only point of solid axle swap is KISS(keep it simple............)
But for traction and ride IFS all the way

 

Ya I get what ur saying about the swap, if the stuff is working why switch..in this case the stuff isn't all working but not real sure what is really going bad. I lost a manual hub on way to work couple yrs ago. Bought new set of rugged ridge hubs, on way to work next day, same side came off again. Called and they sent me a new one free. I put em on and use large hose clamps and tie straps cause I didn't trust them. Took the one off to fix something else and the hub came off in pieces? The warranty was up they said so I put old one on, funny thing is it works but other side stays locked in even when free. When I drive it in snow it goes but I hear clicking like it's not meshing. I'm getting the feeling I may be doing something sooner rather than later. The actual swap I have said is just a thing I'd like to do that really don't need done but.....u get the idea. I know that if I swap I can simplify by going leafs..if I go coil I need coils, towers, radius arms, brackets welded to diff for radius arm to bolt to, a drag link to keep axle from kicking out driver side. I've sat and figured out it's about 450.00 for leafs... that just 2 sets of leads, hangers, shackles, etc...coils will be about $1000. Lol, then there is the steering box, longer hoses. My buddy is selling me a dana 30 with knuckles, and most steering linkage still on it. The best part is that when...if...I start this I'll be about 63 yrs of age...a nice retirement age project

 

I am 63 now and would have to wear a neck brace if I drove a solid front axle truck off-road, lol.

I grew up with solid axle vehicles, when one front wheel goes up the WHOLE cab sways to opposite side, and not a "gentle tilt" either.

My first "car" was a 1956 ****** overlander 4x4 station wagon(looked like this: https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikiped...lity_Wagon.jpg
Bought it for $150 from local water company, the engine was out and laying the back of it, I was 15 years old
Flat head 6, Super hurricane engine, my first "big" engine rebuild, did have mini-bikes and motorcycles, and of course all the neighbors lawn mowers and edgers to work on previously, remember edgers? pre-weed wackers, lol
Got it up and running for my 16th birthday for the driving test, got me through high school, 8-track tape player, ohhh ahhh, lol.

Solid front axles with leafs, bouncy as hell, great fun, but wouldn't want it back for nothing, lol

 

Hi, my boss said he feels that she won't ride all that bad with leafs, compared to cranked up torsion bars. And she hardly ever sees offroad. Like I said it's a looks thing for me..but I loved it story, my 1st car was 70 dodge dart with slant 6. Rebuilt that too. Did not know that I could have changed k frame and put in 318. If I'm crazy enough to do this I'll probable go coil since I love the look of the lift coil in there. Lots of people thought I was nuts to do the 302 swap because I don't take it in the woods but it's got lots more power to get up hills and sounds great. Not sure I remember those edgers... pre trimmers.

 

I'm running front leafs and the ride is comparable to cranked bars

 

That's kinda what I figured, thanks for ur input y did u go leafs...make it easy? Did u leave it shock towers on then. The leafs i can maybe use if they will work are 4 in lift rear leafs for a jeep, not sure which model, he wants $150 for the set. My truck already sits about 9 inches over stock, 4 in susp, 3 in body, aftermarket keyways for bars, then the 33x12.50 tires. My buddy said if it was his truck he would do coils for better ride or leafs for less cost

 

I 4got to ask dewey's what axle he put under his truck..30, 44,,,?