Hi all, since I have many questions pertaining to my 2000 Ranger 2.5L I thought it might be better to just make a single thread and update for each part, spec, etc. as needed.
I already have one, well, 2 threads regarding the 8.8 rear so if a moderator thinks that merging these threads would be cleaner that's fine also.
My next question:

The IAC Valve
The current Motorcraft IAC on the engine has the part number F87E-9F697-ED on the sticker.
I had previously purchased a replacement from Autozone- Duralast TV245 but have yet to install it.
Since then I have read Ron's comments that only Motorcraft or Hitachi IAC valves will work with the 2.5L. Thank you Ron for that insight.
I'll be returning the Duralast part to Autozone (If I can find the receipt).
I can't seem to find a genuine Motorcraft IAC with the right part number anywhere. I did find a Hitachi ABV0016 Idle Air Control Valve on Amazon for $53.52.
The Link- So providing it is in fact compatible should I just get the Hitachi off of Amazon, or does someone have the link to the Motorcraft IAC with the proper part number?

 

Get the Hitachi unit, or get a Motorcraft unit from wrecking yard, don't think there are any new ones around

But test voltage at IAC Valve first
Unplug it
Put volt meters two probes in the connector
Turn on key, engine off
Should see 11-12volts, if not then there is a wiring issue
Turn key off

Switch meter to OHMs
Test OHMs between the two connectors on IAC Valve, 7 to 15 ohms is expected
If higher or N/C(no connection) then IAC is bad

Now test if there is a short to IACs metal case
OHM meter probe on metal case
With Other probe touch one connector at a time and see if you get 0 OHMs, that would indicate an internal short and Bad IAC Valve

 

Thanks for the reply Ron, good info.
I'm not sure yet if there is a problem with it or not but since I was planning on replacing the plugs and wires I figured I'd remove the upper intake and get at the fuel injectors, pcv valve etc.
I just thought I'd have some of the new parts on hand and replace or return depending on the results of inspecting/testing each part as I disassemble.
It's looking like neither Autozone nor NAPA are going to be much of a parts resource for this pickup. They're my only two local options in town and neither seems to handle Motorcraft items anymore.
They really push the cheaply made aftermarket parts which for the Ranger is apparently a no go in most cases.
If you or anyone knows of a reasonable, trustworthy parts vendor or outlet that handles Motorcraft parts and will ship to PA for a decent price the info would be greatly appreciated. It might even be worth its own thread and stickied for others looking for Motorcraft parts regardless of their location.
I'm not sure I trust Amazon for parts, especially since China is making fake Motorcraft parts by the ton and selling them as the real deal. Is there also a problem with knockoff Hitachi parts or are they not an issue?

 

Ford used a Solenoid type IAC Valve on Rangers
Most other car makers used a Stepper motor type valve

3rd party IAC Valves are a "combo" solenoid/stepper, so "can work" but are not reliable, they work fine with stepper, just not as solenoid

 

Again thank you for the info Ron.
I haven't started the tear down yet. I'll test the IAC right before I start the removal process.
Regarding the gaskets for each part I have been buying the appropriate Fel-Pro versions for the Throttle body, IAC Valve, Upper Intake Manifold, and EGR Valve so far.
So far I have new : Spark plugs, Plug wires, and PCV Valve. I'll be returning the Duralast IAC Valve TV245 to Autozone and I'll order the Hitachi listed above if I end up needing it.
Speaking of the new parts:
I'd like to list them here to find out ahead of time if they'll work with this odd little engine or if there are better fitting parts I should get.

Spark Plugs- Bosch Iridium Spark Plug 9605 $7.99ea x 8= $63.92
https://www.autozone.com/external-en...605/256740_0_0

Wires- Duralast 4611 $27.49 05/01/21
https://www.autozone.com/ignition-tu...611/189745_0_0

PCV Valve- - Duralast PCV1198DL $2.99 05/11/21
https://www.autozone.com/emission-co...8dl/918545_0_0
The PCV now shows as AZ Filters but shows the same part number as the Duralast I purchased previously.
I'm not sure about any of these parts being right for the 2.5 so what do you guys think?

 

Does anybody have any input on the parts I've listed above?
I don't want to do the job twice if the aftermarket parts end up not working with this engine, and I'd like to get it done before it gets too cold out.
I'm still looking for a decent source for Motorcraft parts but as of yet I've had no luck.

 

I have never had a 2.5l Ranger but the parts brands look fine to use, Duralast and Bosch are name brands

 

Thank you for replying Ron.
I'm familiar with both name brands, but since getting this Ranger and finding out aftermarket engine parts aren't always an option for this engine I'm working in the dark when it comes to getting the best parts.
That's why I'm listing them before I commit to using them.
Normally as long as the basic specs and quality are the same as OEM I don't mind using aftermarket parts but this Ranger has me a bit hesitant at this point. This is my first Ranger, I had no idea what I was getting myself into lol.
I'd really like to know if the Bosch spark plugs are in fact an exact heat range match, just in the ball park, or not even close. Proper heat range is important and using the wrong plugs can really make things far worse than better.
If this was a normal 4 cylinder engine I would just throw 4 in and swap them out if they didn't perform well. But with this engineering acid trip of an engine having 8 plugs, all hidden, I want to have the right plugs and only have to do this once.

 

IAC valve is about the only part that needs to be brand specific, motorcraft or hitachi

 

About that IAC Valve...
Hi everybody. Due to health complications most of last year and into this year so far, I was unable to work on the Ranger so all the parts listed above are still on the living room floor.
But today I was out for a bit to hook up my Blue Driver scan tool and also check the voltage and ohms on the original Motorcraft IAC valve.
The Live data I focused on are as follows- RPMs/ Absolute Throttle Position/ Timing Advance@ Cyl 1/ MAF Rate/ Engine Coolant Temp. My Ranger was a bit limited in which Live data was supported. And apparently the Blue Driver scan tool is unable to measure the IAC %, which sucks since I really wanted to see those readings.
Data was taken with the engine fully warmed to 190° F. and allowed to idle for app. 20 minutes. 190° was the maximum temp recorded after over an hour working on the vehicle.
RPMs-925 to 966 (Constant fluctuation)
ATP- 14.9%
T.A. Cyl 1- 8.5-9 Varied with idle
MAF Rate- 0.4 ibs/min
E.C.Temp.- 190° F

Overall Scan- No codes
CEL- Not on

The IAC Volt Test- K.On.E.Off. done with Cold engine prior to starting.
Result- 11.94v
Ohm Test- with Key OFF
Here's where it starts to go downhill.
I first sanded the metal casing and wiped it off ensuring a good ground.
Since the IAC connector faces the firewall I couldn't see the pins but after moving the test probe all over the place inside the connector I got 0 ohms or Open Circuit no matter where I put the probe.
So I moved on to the Disconnect test.
Results:
With the engine fully warmed and idling I disconnected the IAC connector and nothing happened, no change in the idle. I tried it again with the same result.
Then I reconnected it and tried tapping on the IAC.
Idle then dropped to 769-806 rpm when disconnected.
Then Increased to 880-1410 rpm when reconnected.
It then evened out to 930-970rpm
The engine ran with no bucking or stalling throughout the tests.
RPMs continually fluctuated the entire time no matter what I was doing, even at idle. The idle has been continually fluctuating since I bought the vehicle.
My next step is to remove the IAC and clean it. Hopefully it's just gummed up.

Just a couple of quick questions for Ron or anyone more familiar with these results than me:
What is the Desired RPM for warm idle on the 2.5L? The Blue Driver doesn't read that either.
Are the Throttle position, MAF rate, and Timing Advance all in normal range?
Based on the lack of an OHM reading( granted, it could be I wasn't finding the pins) could the IAC be shorted internally?
Or is it more likely it just needs to be cleaned?
Either way I'll be cleaning it on the next warm day we have, 36° and dropping is too cold for my old bones to be under the hood for very long.

 

First, the IAC Valve case doesn't need to be grounded, it has a 12v wire and then a Ground wire that the computer uses
Inside the IAC Valve is a solenoid, a coil of wire around a metal tube, 12v on one end of the coil of wire and a ground on the other end of the coil, coil has no connection to the IAC Valve case, in fact that would be a bad thing if it did, you can OHM test each terminal on IAC Valve to case, should be NO connection to case from either terminal
You mentioned OHM test but not the OHM reading

The coil of wire becomes an electro-magnet when power is passed thru it
The valve itself is on a metal shaft with a spring, the spring holds the valve closed
The computer uses PWM(pulse width modulation) for control of the IAC's ground wire, sounds fancy but just means it can vary the ground which varies the voltage, same as if you varied the 12volts

On start up the IAC is fully grounded so valve is wide open, engine should REV slightly every time its started because of this, then computer lowers the voltage and spring pushes valve closed, to set "Target" idle

Target idle is based on engine temp, from ECT sensor(190degF), target idle is pre-set in computer's factory programming
When engine is cold above 1,000RPM is seen
Then it slowly drops as engine(ECT sensor) warns up
Warm target idle for 4cyl engines is usually no lower than 750rpms, as 4cyl engines tend to vibrate under that, so 800 wouldn't be out of line, 850 in automatic

If you unplug IAC Valve, on warmed up engine, the RPMs should drop to 500-600 ranger or engine may even stall
If RPMs do not change then you will need to look at the "Anti-diesel" screw on the throttle cable linkage
It looks like an idle screw but fuel injected engines can NOT use an idle screw, which is why they all use an IAC(idle air control) Valve, lol
So look for the anti-diesel screw
When you find it, unplug the IAC Valve again
Turn screw counter-clockwise 1/2 a turn, and see if idle starts to drop, people adjust this screw without know what its for, lol
If idle starts to drop keep turning until engine is barely running, its now reset to what it should be
If idle DID NOT drop then turn back clockwise 1/2 turn, its not the problem

ATP?
TPS is throttle position, and is usually 17-19% throttle closed, just under 20%, wide open throttle is 90-92%

Need to change MAF reading to grams per second, g/s, in the BlueDriver
Warm idle should be 2.9 to 3.3 g/s
General rule of thumb is g/s will be displacement(2.5l) at 500rpm, so warm idle 800rpms, slightly higher, higher rpm higher g/s

 

Hi Ron,
I did mention the ohm reading- "Since the IAC connector faces the firewall I couldn't see the pins but after moving the test probe all over the place inside the connector I got 0 ohms or Open Circuit no matter where I put the probe".
I got 0 ohms no matter where I touched the probes but I couldn't actually see the pins inside the connector so it might have been my fault. I might not have made contact with either pin.
You said- "First, the IAC Valve case doesn't need to be grounded".
When I typed good "ground" I meant good "contact" to the metal case.
What I was referring to is the internal short test you had posted previously.
"Now test if there is a short to IACs metal case
OHM meter probe on metal case
With Other probe touch one connector at a time and see if you get 0 OHMs, that would indicate an internal short and Bad IAC Valve"
I was going by this sentence in italics so I thought you meant 0 ohms meant a bad IAC.

"ATP?" ATP (Absolute Throttle Position) is the Blue Driver designation for Throttle Position, that's how they have it.
I already planned on checking the anti diesel screw to see if it might have been adjusted but it was late, cold, and getting dark so I wrapped it up until I get a warmer day to continue. But still good advice so thank you.
I'm still learning as I go and since this 2000 Ranger is the newest vehicle I've ever owned, much of these electronics are new to me.
As far as the MAF value, I'm not sure if there is an option in the Blue Driver app to change lbs/m to g/s but I'll look at it today.
As soon as I can I'll remove and clean the IAC, check the AD screw and retest the RPMs etc.
Thanks again Ron for all the information.
It really helps.

 

IAC Valve's two terminals should show low OHMs as its just a coil of wire inside, so set your Meter to lowest scale, usually 200ohms, and test again
Then test each terminal to metal case, should be N/C, no connection, or meter display just doesn't change at all, 0 ohms here would be internal short

When the IAC Valve is off, turn on the key
Plug IAC Valve in while watching the valve, it should move/open, it only moves 3/8" but should move, then unplug it and watch it close, repeat until satisfied

Test voltage on the unhooked IAC wires, key on, I think you did already, should be close to 12v

 

I had been thinking about removing the IAC as you said to see if the valve moves at all. I'll do that when I remove it for cleaning.
I think it may have been stuck since there was no change in RPM initially when I first unplugged it with the engine warmed up and running.
But after tapping on the IAC a few times the rpms did start to change.
Hopefully I can get away with just a good cleaning.
What would be the best cleaner to use?
I have on hand; Brake cleaner, MAF cleaner, and Carb/Throttle Body cleaner.

Also- I've read that the throttle body has a coating on it and should not be cleaned even though it gets gummed up just like any other.
What cleaner would be safe to use on the throttle body?
I want to clean that also.
And as always I appreciate your knowledge and willingness to help when any of us needs a question answered.

 

Throttle body cleaner is fine to use on IAC Valves

Yes, I have read that too, here's the skinny
If there is a coating and it comes off with cleaning then it WAS NOT much of a coating, lol
Clean away

People do coat intakes to reduce surface turbulence, like port polishing, smoother surfaces, but these are racers trying to get that last 1/8th horsepower bump
But car makers wouldn't do that, they may spray on a coating so the BLOW-BY oil doesn't gum up the works, lol, but it doesn't work that well
Or its just for long term storage so part stays protected until part is installed, my money is on this.....................if there is a coating

 

Sounds good Ron.
I agree, if the coating was so critical to engine operation it should be able to take the occasional cleaning.
I'll hit it with some throttle body cleaner once I yank it off the engine.

 

Now the oil:
My Ranger has 178,000 miles on it now. The oil was clean and full a week ago but since I added some seafoam I'm due to change the oil in a few days.
What's the best oil for a high mileage 2.5L that won't break the bank?
Will this do?

I already have the filter ( Motorcraft FL400S) in my cart, just waiting to find the right oil so I can order them at the same
Update:
I just ordered this 5 Qt container of oil from Walmart-
https://www.walmart.com/ip/Valvoline...-Vary/15125761
I'll pick it up later today and then I just have to wait for the filter to be delivered and I can change the oil.
I hope this oil will be a good match for the old 2.5l.

 

BTW-
My Blue Driver doesn't seem to have the option to switch the MAF value of lbs/m to g/s but I checked two online converters and .4 lbs/m equals 3.02 g/s
It's supposed to equal engine displacement right? (2.5L) so it's a bit high.
Is it in the normal range or am I getting too much air?
I need to check the anti diesel screw and remove the IAC to see if it is moving or not.

 

Its the displacement at 500RPM<<<
so 2.5g/s at 500rpm
If idle was higher, which it always is, then 3g/s would be correct

 

Oh yea, I forgot about that. So since it's idling a little high the MAF value is about right.
Thanks Ron.

 

ATF for the 5 spd manual trans.
The Owner's Manual calls for Motorcraft Mercon ATF but that was discontinued back in 2007.
Motorcraft Mercon V ATF was the new designation for auto and manual transmissions.
I can still find the Mercon V but so far I can only find it on Amazon in a 5 qt. container. Walmart has it by the case but I don't need that much. I assume the Mercon V also replaced the Mercon for power steering systems so the 5qt. jug will be fine..
But at $41.40 I'd like to find it cheaper if I can. Maybe I'll just get it. The 5 qt. jug is about half the price of 5 individual quarts for some reason.
Here's a link just in case anyone else is looking for it.

Here's a link to the case at Walmart-
https://www.walmart.com/ip/Motorcraf...ange/551408018
About this thread-
Is lumping various questions into one thread okay, or should I be posting in the appropriate forums for each question i.e.- The ATF and engine oil questions/comments in the "Oil and Lubrication" forum?

 

Yes, Mercon V, the M5OD-R1(M5R1) trans hold 2.8 Quarts, Bone dry, it usually only takes about 2 quarts on a drain and refill

If its your thread, which this is, you can take it in any direction you want
If its about a different year Ranger then I would start a new thread

 

Thank Ron,
I just placed the order for the 5 Qt. jug from Amazon.

 

Update:
Since replacing the timing belt and a whole bunch of other parts my truck has been throwing P1506 (IAC) Valve Duty Cycle Higher Than Expected.
I posted some information in another thread but wanted to update this one for now.
All the previous posts regarding IAC testing in this thread were with the original Ford Motorcraft IAC Part # F87E-9F697-ED. (01-18-00 3 Date Code?)
I then installed a Hitachi Model # ABV0016 IAC valve. Since then I've been having extremely high rpms between shifts, at startup, and when pulling out or stopping at red lights, etc.
I've checked for vacuum leaks, rechecked voltage on the IAC connector, I've found nothing wrong.
Tonight I tested the old Motorcraft IAC( I kept it) and the pins showed 10.3 Ohms resistance. Each pin to case test showed no change on the meter
The IAC gasket is new. It's always possible I have a bad cap in the PCM but since I only had this problem after installing the Hitachi unit I'm thinking it's either bad from the factory, or not the right one for this truck even though it's the one that comes up in a search.
I'm going to try the old one today and see if I still get the high RPM and the P1506 code.
The only reason I changed it in the first place was due to stalling and rough idle if I didn't let the truck warm up completely before driving it. And the fact that idle speed didn't drop when I disconnected it after warming up the truck until I tapped on the case a few times.
I've cleaned it since then, just never put it back on.
I'm still trying to find a new, never used Motorcraft IAC with the appropriate part number but they seem to be unicorns these days. If anyone has one and wants to part with it, please post here.
Thanks all.