newbie needs 2.3L help ASAP
#1
newbie needs 2.3L help ASAP
i have a 1996 ford ranger with 2.3 4cyl. Developed a rough idle and hesitation/slight stumble(upon accelerating at times). I replaced plug, wires, air filter and fuel filter, nothing changed. Engine code says misfire cyclinder 1. I recently replace both coil packs, replaced wires and plugs again, changed timing belt(wore badly), water pump and thermostat. STILL the problem exists. gets decent mileage still right at 25mpg on hwy, but when reved up or slowing down tends to idle very roughly, or die. I need to remedy this ASAP as I have a long trip coming up. PLease any help would be greatly appreciated. Plugs all look good too.
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Fuel Pressure Regulator is the very first thing I would replace before spending alot of money on injecters....this is a very common problem with Ford engines, and it will gradually get worse until you replace it. Tell you what, pull out your oil dipstick and see if the oil smells like gas....
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Took intake plenum off and cleaned it thoroughly, along with throttle body, decided to go ahead and replace IAC and TPS while it was off. Also replaced o-rings, washers, pintle caps and filters on injectors, after cleaning them.
For 2 days now no engine code, but hard to start at times, and also has died a couple of times. If you rev it a bit ad let off it will idle VERY roughly and sometimes die. Apprx 2 weeks ago before I took injectors out I had local garage check compression and fuel pressure, which they said were fine. Also had them double chevk for vacuum leaks to make sure I hadn't missed any.
That being said, I have replaced wires, plugs,coil packs, timing belt(needed it badly) tensioner, thermostat, water pump, IAC,TPS, ad fuel filter. Also filled up with non ethanol fuel. WHAT else can I do? ANY ideas?
For 2 days now no engine code, but hard to start at times, and also has died a couple of times. If you rev it a bit ad let off it will idle VERY roughly and sometimes die. Apprx 2 weeks ago before I took injectors out I had local garage check compression and fuel pressure, which they said were fine. Also had them double chevk for vacuum leaks to make sure I hadn't missed any.
That being said, I have replaced wires, plugs,coil packs, timing belt(needed it badly) tensioner, thermostat, water pump, IAC,TPS, ad fuel filter. Also filled up with non ethanol fuel. WHAT else can I do? ANY ideas?
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go to your auto zone , buy a can of pressurized fuel injector , screw included hose onto valve connected to the fuel injector rail , pull off the fuel pressure regulator vacuum hose and plug the hose
remove the fuel pump fuse and set the fuse aside
start engine ( the engine will run off of the injector cleaner can ) run the engine till the engine stalls
remove injector cleaner hose , re-connect the fuel pressure regulator vacuum hose
re-insert the fuel pump fuse ( ignition off )
start engine and listen for erratic engine idle, if the engine idle is still erratic
then it is time to replace the fuel pump
remove the fuel pump fuse and set the fuse aside
start engine ( the engine will run off of the injector cleaner can ) run the engine till the engine stalls
remove injector cleaner hose , re-connect the fuel pressure regulator vacuum hose
re-insert the fuel pump fuse ( ignition off )
start engine and listen for erratic engine idle, if the engine idle is still erratic
then it is time to replace the fuel pump
Last edited by cheese_man; 05-03-2014 at 02:22 PM. Reason: added words
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the next step would be !!
un-bolt and remove the EGR valve - to inspect the carbon buiild-up inside the EGR valve
most times , excessive carbon build-up inside the EGR valve will cause the valve to jam in the slightly open position - allowing the constant flow of exhaust gases to enter the intake manifold , which in turn would cause erratic idle issues , which the engine computer cannot compensate for - thus generating the check engine light
un-bolt and remove the EGR valve - to inspect the carbon buiild-up inside the EGR valve
most times , excessive carbon build-up inside the EGR valve will cause the valve to jam in the slightly open position - allowing the constant flow of exhaust gases to enter the intake manifold , which in turn would cause erratic idle issues , which the engine computer cannot compensate for - thus generating the check engine light
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hesitation, not in 1st or 2nd gear, only in 3rd, 4th and 5th. Began after transmission replaced and plugs. Got worse, even after plugs, wires, fuel filter and pump, converter, muffler, two coils, three complete diagnostics eventually averaging 140-180 compression #3&4 strongest. Scoping valves for spring or others problems, leak down under10%, fuel flow & pressure fine, amf sensor giving computer a high elevation read, fuel mix rich at 2000 rpm's with slight load. Strong in first and second gear. Starts sputtering into 3rd & 4th. Acts like it if flooding out, by creating similar load as slower speed by riding brakes till sputtering begins, and a strong smell of unburned fuel.
Timing belt off or stretched by 6% and crank shaft pulley hub maybe 1% or 1/16" play.
Big question...
If hesitation continues with a new pulley hub and timing belt, what next? I already bought anew egr valve. Computer next? Another sensor? What? Everything else checks out mechanically sound including transmission which is standard 5 speed. 145,000 miles, no leaks, no blue smoke or oil loss. Well taken care of.
Help!
Timing belt off or stretched by 6% and crank shaft pulley hub maybe 1% or 1/16" play.
Big question...
If hesitation continues with a new pulley hub and timing belt, what next? I already bought anew egr valve. Computer next? Another sensor? What? Everything else checks out mechanically sound including transmission which is standard 5 speed. 145,000 miles, no leaks, no blue smoke or oil loss. Well taken care of.
Help!