1997, 2.3 4 cyl., base model (no A/C, no power steering), 203,000 miles.
It was time to renew the timing belt so, while I was at it, I decided to also renew the serpentine belt and, while I was at that, decided it made sense to also renew the radiator hoses and thermostat (it actually broke in two when I pulled it out of its housing) and water pump. Water pump, thermostat and hoses were all original - it only seemed to make sense to replace them after 203,000 miles of service even though they all seemed to be working as they should. On reassembly, everything seemed ok for about 50 miles but I got a bit of steam as I got back home. I did not see an active leak so I thought I might have trapped some air in the system. I topped up the system and it was ok on a short test drive. On a longer drive, it overheated again. This time I found an active leak near the lower mounting bolt for the water pump housing. When I first put it together, I had used only the O-ring gaskets that came with the pump but when I re-assembled it, I applied a generous bead of water-pump RTV silicone along with the O-rings and, following package directions, put the parts together just finger tight for an hour before torquing things down, then waited another 24 hours before adding back the coolant. IT LEAKED LIKE A SIEVE! I have pulled the pump, AGAIN, but I do not see a crack in the pump housing or anything else that would explain such a massive leak. If anyone has had a similar experience or just has a suggestion as to what I should be looking for, I would greatly appreciate your input!

 

I would first make sure the gasket surfaces are both free of any debris or anything that could damage the o-ring. I also would not apply RTV on the same surface that also uses an o-ring to seal it, unless the bore was visibly damaged to the point that the gasket itself would not seal.

Check parts for flatness, damage, anything that could cause an issue.

I also almost never "let it sit for an hour" like the instructions say. I know it's "not the right way" but I've never had leak issues doing it this way. I will generally use an anaerobic sealer when "RTV" or gasket maker is mentioned, as this will seal in the absence of air, vs aerobic sealants, which cure in the presence of air.

Most of the time, a sealer with those directions, used on a stamped steel part, will just cause the gasket surface to warp, as the bolt holes have much more force applied to the area around it vs the span between the bolts.

Also, moved your thread into the right section so you can get as many views as possible.