I was wandering about the solinoid that controls the egr. The solinoid has voltage going to it at idle but there is no suction at the egr which is a good thing from what I've read but how do I know if it gets suction when it needs to open does the polarity switch? All lines are clear and not clogged.

A few of the things I've noticed us this past winter when I bought it it ran fine until the weather started to warm up. Now it runs rough during acceleration. It is a standard and I push the clutch in at 55 mph and rev it up and it seems strong. Until I let the clutch back out.

Also the engine temp is always 0 at start up to the lower 1/4 of the gauge "doesn't seem to be getting up to temp"

The egr is working if I put anouther vacuum line on to see if it will engage and it does I can hear it click/pop when I take the vacuum back off.

I took the egr off to replace it and found the line at the manifold not tightened all the way. It ways almost just sitting there so I got that tightened.

CEL codes are:
P0135 O2 sensor bank1
P1131 bank 1 O2 lean
P0401 egr fault

Bought a O2 sensor to replace the one right after the engine. Doing that in the morning.

Thanks

 

Reving an engine with no load(clutch in) and reving with a load(driving) will always be different, you could have a lean mix as reported by O2 sensor, which would cause rough acceleration under load.

Codes P0135 and P1131 mean O2 sensor is probably working fine, I wouldn't replace it....yet
Never replace sensors because they "report" a problem, that means they are working, and not bad, i.e. "don't shoot the messenger", lol

P0401 may be the only problem besides the engine temp, which is a problem for sure.

The DPFE sensors are a known issue, you can test them with a volt meter and vacuum pump/gauge.
Google: test DPFE sensor

Also you could have a good DPFE sensor but some carbon build up in the EGR valve and tube.
The DPFE sensor has two lines connected to the exhaust, one near the EGR valve and one farther away from the EGR valve.
When the computer decides to open the EGR valve, the pressure in the line closest to the EGR valve will go down because pressure is escaping into the intake from EGR Valve, the pressure in the line farther away will not go down as much, so the DPFE sensor is measuring the pressure differential between the two lines and reports that back to the computer, DPFE = Delta Pressure Feedback EGR
The DPFE doesn't open or close the EGR valve it just "reports" how far it is open.

So if EGR tube or valve gets clogged up you can get 0401


Also you will need to change your thermostat, to get engine back up to operating temp, it is most likely stuck open which is the correct position for it to fail in, stuck close would be very bad :)
Get a 192degF or a 195degF t-stat, with a "jiggle valve"(hole in the plate to let air out when refilling).
You do not want a 180degF t-stat
This should clear up the O2 code 0135


Also run a can of Seafoam in the gas tank($8) that will clean up injectors and maybe get rid of that 1131.
Also have a quick look at the PCV valve and it's hose, could have a vacuum leak causing this code.
Ford started using vacuum lines that start cracking after 10 years or so so check any that you see for cracks or brittleness

 

I just checked the dpfe and it was at 0.96 volts. Within specs best I can tell. Although it looked like the wires were backwards compared to the pinout diagram I looked at. And the other side right at 5v.

Anyone have anouther pinout diagram I can see. To make sure the wires are not crossed somewhere.

Going to double check the lines are clear and not cracked for dpfe.

Also any thoughts on this OBD2 scan tool with wifi. I guess I just need my phone and a app for it to work. WiFi ELM327 OBD2 OBDII Car Auto Diagnostic Interface Scanner Tool Code Reader US | eBay