I have a 1999 ranger 2.5liter 5speed manual blew head gasket so I replaced the head gasket, thermostat,radiator changed the oil and filter twice ran motor flush through and oil treatment through it still has a milky color in the oil and still runs hot if I take the radiator cap off it won’t run hit it stays in the normal area my oil gauge is just a very little above normal area if I turn the heat on witch don’t work either but it massive white smoke out the exhaust the heat don’t work either u can feel a slight change but it don’t work all after the head gasket blew what do I do it has 211,565 on the dash so fustrated plz help all together I’m in 450$ trying to fix/figure out what the problem is what do I do

 

The head is probably cracked, do Ron's glove test in this post.
If the heater isn't working either, then the coolant is low or heater matrix is blocked or both.

Blown head gaskets just don't happen, the engine has to be over heated, and if driven like this, the head may crack.

https://www.ranger-forums.com/2-9l-3...4/#post2126286

 

Welcome to the forum

Reads like new head gasket didn't seal or wasn't the original problem
Did you take the head in to machine shop to have it cleaned, surfaced and pressure tested?

Heads can crack which will cause same symptom as blown head gasket, and then if engine overheats because of cracked head then head gasket will get crushed and "blow" causing coolant to get into oil passages.

White steam(smoke) does mean coolant is being burned in at least one cylinder.
Could be from bad intake manifold gasket but that wouldn't cause radiator to overflow


You can do The Glove Test, free and easy
Cold engine
Remove rad cap
drain coolant so it is at least 1" below top of rad, lower is fine

Remove overflow hose from rad, plug that port with Vacuum cap, gum, putty, ??
Place Latex glove over rad cap opening, seal it in place with rubber band or ??
(you could also use a balloon or even a condom in place of the Glove)

Unplug coil packs, you want No Spark/No Start

Crank engine over and watch the Glove
If it starts to bounce/inflate you have a cylinder leaking pressure into cooling system, period, very definitive test.
(Compression stroke causes 150psi pressure in a cylinder, if there is a leak/crack then some of that pressure is transferred to cooling system which cause Glove to bounce)

If glove just lays there then you don't

If glove bounces and you want to know which cylinder is leaking then remove 1 spark plug at a time, and crank engine over.
When glove stops bouncing last spark plug removed was from leaking cylinder, replace spark plug to confirm.

On a 2.3l or 2.5l Lima dual spark plug engine you only need to remove 1 spark plug from each cylinder, not both, for this test


Heater hoses are a high point in most vehicles, when you have a cracked head or blown head gasket "air" from a cylinder is being pumped into cooling system, this "air" displaces coolant so engine gets hot spots and start to overheat, this "air" goes to high points, like heater hoses, and when there is enough "air" you get an air dam, it blocks coolant from flowing thru the hose, so you lose heat in heater core, if you REV the engine the water pump might breakup the air dam, but more air is being pumped in so it will get blocked again.
But cab heat would be the least of your worries in this situation.

When leaking cylinder is on it's intake stroke it sucks some coolant in, and hot cylinder vaporizes it, and this causes the white "smoke" at tail pipe

 

Thanks y’all and yes it did run hot before the head gasket I was driving home from work and the radiator blew a hole in the plastic tank before I could pull over I lost my oil pressure on the dash n there was a bad knock/rattle then I ordered the radiator changed it out and the thermostat full it back up n immediately has white smoke coming out exhaust so my experience it was a head gasket well changed all that and still runs hot and smokes white massive I really appreciate it you guys this was my dads truck when he passed I kept it don’t want to get rid of it I’m try the glove thing but I may have another engine wit 190k on it for 200$ maybe take 2 motors and make 1 good 1 I will keep y’all updated thanks

 

Ok so the oil is clean now but it still smokes every now and then and then stops but when I ran the truck without the radiator cap on there was white smoke coming out what’s that mean and if I put the cap back on the radiator it smokes out the exhaust and runs hot without the cap on it don’t it just has white smoke coming out the radiator n doesn’t run hot I’m completely lost

 

With the rad cap OFF, combustion gasses are coming out of the cap.
This also un-pressurizes the system, so less coolant is getting into the combustion chamber, or very little _ less white smoke in the exhaust.
It will also use less coolant this way because with out the cap off, the coolant is not being forced into the combustion chamber.

With the cap "ON", the system becomes pressurized and the coolant finds its way into the combustion chamber and comes out the exhaust as white smoke (steam).

Do Ron's glove test and that will confirm a cracked head and or a leaky head gasket.
A warped head will also cause this situation.

 

Ok so in ur opinion do u think it’s the head or the block if the block was cracked it would leak oil right so should I just replace the head or the whole engine I’m getting frustrated with it I’m like literally on the verge of losing my job because I can’t get back and forth plus mva is fining me for a missed emissions so give me some options here I found 2 engines for sale 1 for $350 idk mileage for this one still waiting for a response and one for $100 and this has 190k on it I have very little time so plz give me so options on witch would be better also I will do the glove thing in the morning just to be sure if the glove does bounce or inflate it would be a leak in the gasket or the head or a cracked head not the block right because the truck actually sounds like it use to before the problem started i can’t really be mad because this is the frist major thing besides the timing belt that I’ve had to do to the truck but still it’s sentimental I want to fix it

 

Do the glove test first.

This sucks, sorry about the tight spot you're in.

It's tough call...

You're don't know what you're getting with a second hand engine.
Most auto wreckers have a guarantee for a month (depends on the auto wrecker so ask) and that it was running when they salvaged the engine.

If from a private sale, then you just don't know.

If engine was running hot before all this started, the block may be choked up with rust and sludge.
What did it look like when you removed the head ?

Blocks don't normally crack if over heated, Ron would probably know more about the 2.5 in that area then me.

 

Ok so I went out and picked up the hanies manual book and didn’t know that the head bolts had to be in a certain order when put back together so I retraced my steps unloosing the head bolts and tighten them in the right order started the truck back up and let it run to get to normal temp did not run hot or smoke even when I turned heat on/off so is it possible that that would have been the reason for all the smoke and running hot if so I feel like a dumb *** guys I really appreciate all the help you guys are a life saver

 

Did you use a torque wrench too ?
I don't know enough about the 2.5, but most newer engines are TTY (torque to yield) bolts.
That means that every time that the head is removed, a new set should be used.

If you torqued them down to spec and they didn't snap on you, then you're probably OK.

Even if they are non TTY bolts, it's recommended to buy new ones, but with non-TTY bolts, you can get away with it.

http://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo....315103&jsn=490

 

Honestly idk about the bolts no one has been in the engine like that since 99 it was a family truck was bought brand new in 99 so idk really but it’s getting ready to get blue devil head gasket seal and intake and radiator seal ran through it I have to get it to stop running hot if that don’t work then it would be the head or block

 

Reason for white smoke

A. Bad atomization of injector
B. Water in cylinder or diesel
C. Some cylinder doesn't workwhen operating at low speedon cold day
D. Incorrect fuel injection advance angle

 

Solution:

Check the working conditions; replace theexcessive blow -by if necessary. Checkdiesel, if there is water in it,replace it,Otherwise, check for damage of the cylinder head parts which may cause waterleak, replace the damaged ones. Close theshutter door when the ambient temperatureis low, and make the operating temperature rise quickly to avoid running long timeat low temperature. Check and adjust fuelinjection advance angle.

I usually got problem with my engine on yuchai genset or car, and this is what i get from friends who knows engines well.

Check for leakage of the delivery valve andinspect whether plunger is worn- out, andif the plunger spring and delivery valvespring is broken, replace the damagedparts, cylinder gasket and readjust oilpump if necessary.