95 2.3 ranger crankshaft seal
#1
95 2.3 ranger crankshaft seal
I keep getting an error code on the search on the forum and can’t find anything on my year on YouTube for a Crankshaft seal replacement. I apologize if there is already a post.
I have an oil leak, half a quart a month, and I’m getting ready to sell it and would like to take care of this first. Can anyone point me in the right direction of any post or video on this job? Or if you know what year is similar with my 95 2.3l that can broaden my search for instructions or videos for this job. If you know off hand instructions for it, that would rule.
What sucks is that I didn’t have this leak when I replaced the water pump a couple weeks ago. I don’t have a picture on hand of the oil leak. But I do have a photo of my coolant leak before replacing my water pump. The oil leaking is in the exact same spot.
Thanks for your your time and help.
That’s coolant, but I’m leaking oil from that same spot and I’m accusing the crankshaft seal.
I have an oil leak, half a quart a month, and I’m getting ready to sell it and would like to take care of this first. Can anyone point me in the right direction of any post or video on this job? Or if you know what year is similar with my 95 2.3l that can broaden my search for instructions or videos for this job. If you know off hand instructions for it, that would rule.
What sucks is that I didn’t have this leak when I replaced the water pump a couple weeks ago. I don’t have a picture on hand of the oil leak. But I do have a photo of my coolant leak before replacing my water pump. The oil leaking is in the exact same spot.
Thanks for your your time and help.
That’s coolant, but I’m leaking oil from that same spot and I’m accusing the crankshaft seal.
#2
Yes, that is coolant
On the 2.3l Lima engine you need to remove timing belt then crank's belt gear, main seal is behind that gear.
So Google: timing belt replacement 2.3l lima
Several videos on that
Then here is a neat tool to get old seal out: www.youtube.com/watch?v=sJqI6WExX8Q
Paint can opener
On the 2.3l Lima engine you need to remove timing belt then crank's belt gear, main seal is behind that gear.
So Google: timing belt replacement 2.3l lima
Several videos on that
Then here is a neat tool to get old seal out: www.youtube.com/watch?v=sJqI6WExX8Q
Paint can opener
#3
Yes, that is coolant
On the 2.3l Lima engine you need to remove timing belt then crank's belt gear, main seal is behind that gear.
So Google: timing belt replacement 2.3l lima
Several videos on that
Then here is a neat tool to get old seal out: www.youtube.com/watch?v=sJqI6WExX8Q
Paint can opener
On the 2.3l Lima engine you need to remove timing belt then crank's belt gear, main seal is behind that gear.
So Google: timing belt replacement 2.3l lima
Several videos on that
Then here is a neat tool to get old seal out: www.youtube.com/watch?v=sJqI6WExX8Q
Paint can opener
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tombat (07-30-2023)
#4
Yes, that is coolant
On the 2.3l Lima engine you need to remove timing belt then crank's belt gear, main seal is behind that gear.
So Google: timing belt replacement 2.3l lima
Several videos on that
Then here is a neat tool to get old seal out: www.youtube.com/watch?v=sJqI6WExX8Q
Paint can opener
On the 2.3l Lima engine you need to remove timing belt then crank's belt gear, main seal is behind that gear.
So Google: timing belt replacement 2.3l lima
Several videos on that
Then here is a neat tool to get old seal out: www.youtube.com/watch?v=sJqI6WExX8Q
Paint can opener
Also Ron,
When I tighten the 8mm on the oil pain, the bolts just keep spinning. I can’t help but to assume that’s not normal. How bad is that and what would you do? I don’t mind changing out the crank seal but replacing the oil pan I believe will be to big of a job for me.
#5
Pull out the bolt, or bolts, in question.
See what their threads look like
If they have bits of metal on them then block/front cover holes are stripped, they were over tightened at some point in the past.
If bolt threads are bad replace bolts
If bolt threads are OK but hole is stripped then there are a couple of options that don't included replacing the block or engine front cover, lol.
Replacing the pan gasket at this point would be best approach, but that can be difficult on some Rangers.
Oil pan gasket has no internal pressure to deal with, in fact there should be a negative pressure in the oil pan when engine is running, PCV system provides that so make sure it is in good working order, it helps prevent valve cover and oil pan leaks from starting.
So oil pan leak is strictly a gravity leak, oil splashes on the inside of the gasket and can leak out if seal is not tight.
Main seal leak is a pressure leak.
But once a valve cover or oil pan leak starts it usually will not stop until gasket is replaced, over tightening a bolt can do more harm than good, lol, it can deform metal creating a bigger leak, or strip out.
If bolt was loose then yes it should be tightened but gasket is already breached so probably won't seal very well again.
For a temp fix I have use a piece of smaller ziptie(zap strap), cut to depth of bolt hole.
It acts as a shim allowing bolt threads to grip any remaining threads in the hole, do NOT over tighten.
You can retap the holes in question and use slightly larger bolt
See what their threads look like
If they have bits of metal on them then block/front cover holes are stripped, they were over tightened at some point in the past.
If bolt threads are bad replace bolts
If bolt threads are OK but hole is stripped then there are a couple of options that don't included replacing the block or engine front cover, lol.
Replacing the pan gasket at this point would be best approach, but that can be difficult on some Rangers.
Oil pan gasket has no internal pressure to deal with, in fact there should be a negative pressure in the oil pan when engine is running, PCV system provides that so make sure it is in good working order, it helps prevent valve cover and oil pan leaks from starting.
So oil pan leak is strictly a gravity leak, oil splashes on the inside of the gasket and can leak out if seal is not tight.
Main seal leak is a pressure leak.
But once a valve cover or oil pan leak starts it usually will not stop until gasket is replaced, over tightening a bolt can do more harm than good, lol, it can deform metal creating a bigger leak, or strip out.
If bolt was loose then yes it should be tightened but gasket is already breached so probably won't seal very well again.
For a temp fix I have use a piece of smaller ziptie(zap strap), cut to depth of bolt hole.
It acts as a shim allowing bolt threads to grip any remaining threads in the hole, do NOT over tighten.
You can retap the holes in question and use slightly larger bolt
#7
No, its a pain in the a$$ and there was a tool but you would have to do some looking to find one
Google: 2.3L Ford Crankshaft Sprocket Puller T74P-6306-A for Ranger Pinto Mustang
10min video to see what it looks like
Part number for it is T74P-6306-A
If you can find a mechanic shop or machine shop that has been in business since the 1970-1980s they should have one you can RENT
The 2.3l Lima engine was first used in a 1974 Pinto, so that is when this tool would have first been needed
Google: 2.3L Ford Crankshaft Sprocket Puller T74P-6306-A for Ranger Pinto Mustang
10min video to see what it looks like
Part number for it is T74P-6306-A
If you can find a mechanic shop or machine shop that has been in business since the 1970-1980s they should have one you can RENT
The 2.3l Lima engine was first used in a 1974 Pinto, so that is when this tool would have first been needed
#9
Did you look to see how it works?
It clamps onto the teeth of the gear, because there is no way to get behind the gear
BE CAREFUL!! there have been more than a few post about trying to find a front cover for this engine because it was BROKEN try to pry off this gear
If you have a puller you may be able to use hose clamp to to hold puller bars to gear, apply pressure and tap gear
If you have the old timing belt you may be able to cut it to get a better grip on the gear with puller
Point being is that you see how "the tool" works, so go from there
It clamps onto the teeth of the gear, because there is no way to get behind the gear
BE CAREFUL!! there have been more than a few post about trying to find a front cover for this engine because it was BROKEN try to pry off this gear
If you have a puller you may be able to use hose clamp to to hold puller bars to gear, apply pressure and tap gear
If you have the old timing belt you may be able to cut it to get a better grip on the gear with puller
Point being is that you see how "the tool" works, so go from there
#10
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