I am unable to fill the cylinders up with air since I dont have an air compressor. I just own basic hand tools.
As far as i know the valves are all the way closed. While the head was off I did look at the and the did seat.
How you described the motor turning over is exactly how it is performing. I can hear air escaping from one spark plug hole ( i have it removed to make sure it's at tdc) I just do not know it its at the valves or not.
Id hate to ask a mobile mechanic to come look at it but it seems like i may have to to get a second opinion or see if I'm doing something wrong

 

Would i be able to accomplish the same thing using the compression tester?
Turning the motor over until it has whatever compression it can get, leave it come back and see if the pressure held?

 

Compression tester should have a one-way valve inside so that the gauge stays at the highest pressure seen, then there is a button to release that pressure to test next cylinder, so no that wouldn't work

And compression is a very very temporary thing, it shouldn't hold for any length of time, you have metal rings sealing against metal cylinder walls and metal valves sealing against metal seats, so it shouldn't hold compression for more than a few seconds

You might call a mobile mechanic and ask about doing a leak down test, many have air compressors on their trucks
Basically they put an air hose with gauge in a spark plug hole of a cylinder at TDC
Then they pump in a KNOWN air pressure, say 50psi, then the gauge at the cylinder might show 45psi, than means leak down is 5psi or 10% which is OK for an older engine

If pressure was 40psi or less so more than 20% then you can listen at the tail pipe and intake to see which valve is leaking


Say you could do this for free
Loosen timing belt and move cam gear 1 tooth in either direction, then test compression on #1, if its lower then move cam gear 2 teeth in the other direction, so you are testing if cam and crank are out of time, if compression goes up in either direction then timing is the problem
I am still convince this is the problem because its the only thing that could effect all cylinder at the same time

 

Ok thank you. I'll give that a try. Have to put it back together again lol

 

So i retarded the cam and it gained psi. 4 teeth. And its gained 10 psi.
Advancing it dropped the psi
I retarded its to 6 teeth and it had no compression
Kept playing with it going in each direction now i have no compression even at tdc (just on #1) I havent testef the other cylinders

 

10 psi ain't enough, you should see a 75-90psi jump up to 150psi or so

I am now not sure what happened

 

Still having problems. Had to let it sit for a little since i work 7 days a week.
So the camshaft sychronizer. Is there a possibility that its causing my problems? I tryed taking it out but was unsuccessful, not sure if there is something inside holding it in place since i would not just spin out like a normal distributor. Also I cannot find anything that clearly shows how to remove it, everything I read just says "remove it" so I assumed it was the same as the distributor

 

It is exactly the same as a distributor, just the one bolt and it should turn in the hole(for timing), and also should just pull out

 

It does not just slide out. It spins with the gear for the pump. I try and turn it the other way and it seems like it wants to come out but gets stuck. It only turns not even an 1/8th of an inch and stops.
Will i be able to see ot with the oil pan off?

 

No, not visible from underneath, it has an oil pump drive shaft like a distributor but its a small hole

Picture here with intake off: https://therangerstation.com/tech_li...chro/cmp-6.JPG

Bolt and keeper plate/clamp seen in picture should be removed

Synchro looks like this http://fortuneelevatorconsultants.co...mshaftsens.jpg

Just a rubber o-ring to hold it in place so pry it up

 

Ok so i got it out. I dont see anyrhing mechanically wrong with it. I read that it can cause a no start situation.
Anything I should look for?

 

No, can't cause No Start on the 4.0l, on the late 1990's 3.0ls it could, I think it was because the 3.0l had cam synchro issues and if it broke, no oil pump, so you didn't want it to start, lol, or stay running
4.0l never had that issue

Cam sensor is used for better MPG by fine tuning fuel injectors better than a Crank sensor can, also for spark advance suggestions, 1994 has separate spark module, that is autonomous on startup, then takes "suggestions" from the computer, for "vacuum advance"/engine load advance

 

I have a 2.3 not a 4.0
Not sure if there are any differences in how the synchronizer works.
Can i just put everything on switched and convert it to distributor and put a carb on it? In theory it would solve any electrical problems it may be having