2.5 1998 pcv valve location
#1
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Ggackermann (02-02-2023)
#2
Look at your engine
Go to the driver side
On the engine block about where cylinder 2 and 3 would be. There's a Black tank. Its underneath of the intake manifold. Sits underneath the cylinder head.
There's a hose that runs down to it. About dead center. Easiest way to get to it is to give that hose a yank up as close to the pcv as you can.
If youre still not finding it from the top crawl under the truck..driver side. Go go your oil filter like you would for an oil change. Closer to the front of the engine about level with that oil filter is the oil separator im talking about. Maybe 6inches in front of it? Looks like a handsized gas tank. PCV is just pushed into it. Thats it.
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B Series (04-22-2022)
#5
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Ggackermann (02-02-2023)
#6
Yep, that's the PCV valve.
I just removed mine a couple of days ago and took some pictures to post but most didn't save for some reason.
I would suggest disconnecting the fuel injector that blocks access to it like I did. it's at least a little easier to get to that way. I also removed the plug wire(#2 I think) that's right in front of the valve.
Also, I used two extended reach pliers to remove and reinstall the PCV valve. I strongly recommend these pliers for working on or around the 2.5L 4 cylinder engine. I've used mine already for so many things I wish I had bought them years ago.
Here's a link to the set I have:
To prevent the PCV hose from being chewed up I took some old vacuum hose I had laying around and cut 2 short pieces for each plier and slipped them over the ends. My PCV hose was still in pretty good condition so I didn't want to ruin it.
It will take some trick maneuvering and a little bit of contortionism to get the PCV valve back in (it comes out easier than it goes back in). Just take your time and you'll get it.
To check the valve once it's removed, just shake it; if it rattles freely it should be good. I like to check for any large formations of gunk or dirt and clean it a bit before reinstallation.
I didn't need to use anything but a rag on mine, but throttle body cleaner is usually okay to use on the PCV valve, just blow it out or let it dry good before sticking it back in. I also blew through it with the ball in the open position and felt for air coming through the other end, then tried with the ball seated to make sure there was no air.
I found that it was easier to reinstall the valve into the oil separator first, then hold the valve with one set of pliers while easing the hose back on the barb with the other set. Don't forget to slide some hose pieces onto the plier jaws first, even if you have to buy some at Autozone etc.
It's a lot easier than trying to replace the PCV hose after ripping it apart with the pliers.
If you find the valve is loose in the rubber grommet like mine was, you can wrap some electrical tape around the seat of the valve, it will make a better fit if the grommet has dried a bit with age. Just be sure not to obstruct the open end of the valve.
Here are some pics:
Grommet and Hose Closer look( Some damage from pliers)
What the PCV Valve looks like
Grommet and Hose
Reinstallation (Note rubber sleeves on pliers)
Removal (No sleeves yet)
Sleeves on pliers
The pictures aren't in the best order but hopefully they help.
I just removed mine a couple of days ago and took some pictures to post but most didn't save for some reason.
I would suggest disconnecting the fuel injector that blocks access to it like I did. it's at least a little easier to get to that way. I also removed the plug wire(#2 I think) that's right in front of the valve.
Also, I used two extended reach pliers to remove and reinstall the PCV valve. I strongly recommend these pliers for working on or around the 2.5L 4 cylinder engine. I've used mine already for so many things I wish I had bought them years ago.
Here's a link to the set I have:
To prevent the PCV hose from being chewed up I took some old vacuum hose I had laying around and cut 2 short pieces for each plier and slipped them over the ends. My PCV hose was still in pretty good condition so I didn't want to ruin it.
It will take some trick maneuvering and a little bit of contortionism to get the PCV valve back in (it comes out easier than it goes back in). Just take your time and you'll get it.
To check the valve once it's removed, just shake it; if it rattles freely it should be good. I like to check for any large formations of gunk or dirt and clean it a bit before reinstallation.
I didn't need to use anything but a rag on mine, but throttle body cleaner is usually okay to use on the PCV valve, just blow it out or let it dry good before sticking it back in. I also blew through it with the ball in the open position and felt for air coming through the other end, then tried with the ball seated to make sure there was no air.
I found that it was easier to reinstall the valve into the oil separator first, then hold the valve with one set of pliers while easing the hose back on the barb with the other set. Don't forget to slide some hose pieces onto the plier jaws first, even if you have to buy some at Autozone etc.
It's a lot easier than trying to replace the PCV hose after ripping it apart with the pliers.
If you find the valve is loose in the rubber grommet like mine was, you can wrap some electrical tape around the seat of the valve, it will make a better fit if the grommet has dried a bit with age. Just be sure not to obstruct the open end of the valve.
Here are some pics:
Grommet and Hose Closer look( Some damage from pliers)
What the PCV Valve looks like
Grommet and Hose
Reinstallation (Note rubber sleeves on pliers)
Removal (No sleeves yet)
Sleeves on pliers
The pictures aren't in the best order but hopefully they help.
Last edited by EdK; 03-23-2022 at 02:34 AM.
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B Series (04-22-2022)
#8
As far as the tape: I only used one layer of electrical tape on mine, but yours may be different. You want just enough to give a snug fit, not so much you have to stand on it to seat the valve.
Last edited by EdK; 03-23-2022 at 06:03 PM.
#10
If the new PCV valve ends up working good, you might want to post a link to where you got it, along with the make and model number so others can get one.
I got one from Autozone but when I took out the original Motorcraft and compared them, I stuck the original back in.
#11
Please check to make sure these work with your vehicle before buying. They were the right part numbers for my 2000 2.5L and should be good for the OP's 1998 2.5L.
PCV Valve: F67Z-6A666-AB
PCV Grommet: C9AZ-2B176-B
I got them from the local Ford Stealership since they're literally right next door.
PCV Valve- $24.16
Grommet- $6.57
Note- Unrelated to this post, but I also replaced the defective Brake Booster Check Valve and grommet. Here are the part numbers just in case someone reading this needs them.
Booster Check Valve: DOAZ-2365-A
Booster Grommet: E7AZ-6A892-A
Stealership Prices:
Check Valve- $12.15
Grommet- $25.52 (Ouch)
Total for everything came to $72.50 after PA 6% sales tax.
Just search each part number for alternative purchasing options and prices.
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