SOHC - 2.3L & 2.5L Lima Engines Discussions and Topics specific to the Lima 4 cylinder engines

2.5 1998 pcv valve location

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
  #1  
Old 03-17-2022
Nawkie's Avatar
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Mar 2022
Location: Newport news VA
Posts: 10
Received 4 Likes on 4 Posts
2.5 1998 pcv valve location

Can someone please tell me where the pcv valve is on my 2.5 1998 ranger? I see a lot of threads for every other version but have yet to find the answer for the 2.5
pictures or diagrams would be awesome.
T.i.a.
 
The following users liked this post:
Ggackermann (02-02-2023)
  #2  
Old 03-19-2022
Slow's Avatar
Member
Join Date: Oct 2021
Location: Aurora Indiana
Posts: 45
Received 7 Likes on 6 Posts
Originally Posted by Nawkie
Can someone please tell me where the pcv valve is on my 2.5 1998 ranger? I see a lot of threads for every other version but have yet to find the answer for the 2.5
pictures or diagrams would be awesome.
T.i.a.
These trucks have an air oil separator from factory. The pcv sits inside of this.

Look at your engine

Go to the driver side

On the engine block about where cylinder 2 and 3 would be. There's a Black tank. Its underneath of the intake manifold. Sits underneath the cylinder head.

There's a hose that runs down to it. About dead center. Easiest way to get to it is to give that hose a yank up as close to the pcv as you can.

If youre still not finding it from the top crawl under the truck..driver side. Go go your oil filter like you would for an oil change. Closer to the front of the engine about level with that oil filter is the oil separator im talking about. Maybe 6inches in front of it? Looks like a handsized gas tank. PCV is just pushed into it. Thats it.
 
The following users liked this post:
B Series (04-22-2022)
  #3  
Old 03-19-2022
Nawkie's Avatar
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Mar 2022
Location: Newport news VA
Posts: 10
Received 4 Likes on 4 Posts
Awesome. Thank you!
 
  #4  
Old 03-19-2022
Slow's Avatar
Member
Join Date: Oct 2021
Location: Aurora Indiana
Posts: 45
Received 7 Likes on 6 Posts
Originally Posted by Nawkie
Awesome. Thank you!
No problem. If you still can't find it I'll snap a pic of mine. Just rather wouldn't with the rain lol.
 
  #5  
Old 03-22-2022
Nawkie's Avatar
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Mar 2022
Location: Newport news VA
Posts: 10
Received 4 Likes on 4 Posts
Is this it??




 
The following users liked this post:
Ggackermann (02-02-2023)
  #6  
Old 03-23-2022
EdK's Avatar
EdK
EdK is offline
Member
Join Date: May 2021
Location: Berwick, PA
Posts: 116
Received 18 Likes on 18 Posts
Yep, that's the PCV valve.
I just removed mine a couple of days ago and took some pictures to post but most didn't save for some reason.
I would suggest disconnecting the fuel injector that blocks access to it like I did. it's at least a little easier to get to that way. I also removed the plug wire(#2 I think) that's right in front of the valve.
Also, I used two extended reach pliers to remove and reinstall the PCV valve. I strongly recommend these pliers for working on or around the 2.5L 4 cylinder engine. I've used mine already for so many things I wish I had bought them years ago.
Here's a link to the set I have:

Amazon Amazon

To prevent the PCV hose from being chewed up I took some old vacuum hose I had laying around and cut 2 short pieces for each plier and slipped them over the ends. My PCV hose was still in pretty good condition so I didn't want to ruin it.
It will take some trick maneuvering and a little bit of contortionism to get the PCV valve back in (it comes out easier than it goes back in). Just take your time and you'll get it.
To check the valve once it's removed, just shake it; if it rattles freely it should be good. I like to check for any large formations of gunk or dirt and clean it a bit before reinstallation.
I didn't need to use anything but a rag on mine, but throttle body cleaner is usually okay to use on the PCV valve, just blow it out or let it dry good before sticking it back in. I also blew through it with the ball in the open position and felt for air coming through the other end, then tried with the ball seated to make sure there was no air.
I found that it was easier to reinstall the valve into the oil separator first, then hold the valve with one set of pliers while easing the hose back on the barb with the other set. Don't forget to slide some hose pieces onto the plier jaws first, even if you have to buy some at Autozone etc.
It's a lot easier than trying to replace the PCV hose after ripping it apart with the pliers.
If you find the valve is loose in the rubber grommet like mine was, you can wrap some electrical tape around the seat of the valve, it will make a better fit if the grommet has dried a bit with age. Just be sure not to obstruct the open end of the valve.
Here are some pics:

Grommet and Hose Closer look( Some damage from pliers)

What the PCV Valve looks like

Grommet and Hose

Reinstallation (Note rubber sleeves on pliers)

Removal (No sleeves yet)

Sleeves on pliers

The pictures aren't in the best order but hopefully they help.
 

Last edited by EdK; 03-23-2022 at 02:34 AM.
The following users liked this post:
B Series (04-22-2022)
  #7  
Old 03-23-2022
Nawkie's Avatar
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Mar 2022
Location: Newport news VA
Posts: 10
Received 4 Likes on 4 Posts
Awesome response man! Thnx! Was def concerned with how lose it is in tht hole. I got the valve replaced and now ima go back and do the tape trick. Ty so much
 
The following users liked this post:
B Series (04-22-2022)
  #8  
Old 03-23-2022
EdK's Avatar
EdK
EdK is offline
Member
Join Date: May 2021
Location: Berwick, PA
Posts: 116
Received 18 Likes on 18 Posts
Originally Posted by Nawkie
Awesome response man! Thnx! Was def concerned with how lose it is in tht hole. I got the valve replaced and now ima go back and do the tape trick. Ty so much
Sorry I didn't post sooner, like, before you had to do it on your own. At least you got it done though. Good job.
As far as the tape: I only used one layer of electrical tape on mine, but yours may be different. You want just enough to give a snug fit, not so much you have to stand on it to seat the valve.
 

Last edited by EdK; 03-23-2022 at 06:03 PM.
  #9  
Old 02-02-2023
Ggackermann's Avatar
Member
Join Date: Mar 2021
Location: Lacombe, LA
Posts: 2
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Great pictures!

thanks for all the pictures! Finally found and changed my PCV valve.
 
  #10  
Old 02-02-2023
EdK's Avatar
EdK
EdK is offline
Member
Join Date: May 2021
Location: Berwick, PA
Posts: 116
Received 18 Likes on 18 Posts
Originally Posted by Ggackermann
thanks for all the pictures! Finally found and changed my PCV valve.
Happy to help. RonD has helped me a lot with my truck, just paying it forward.
If the new PCV valve ends up working good, you might want to post a link to where you got it, along with the make and model number so others can get one.
I got one from Autozone but when I took out the original Motorcraft and compared them, I stuck the original back in.
 
  #11  
Old 07-09-2023
EdK's Avatar
EdK
EdK is offline
Member
Join Date: May 2021
Location: Berwick, PA
Posts: 116
Received 18 Likes on 18 Posts
Originally Posted by Nawkie
Awesome response man! Thnx! Was def concerned with how lose it is in tht hole. I got the valve replaced and now ima go back and do the tape trick. Ty so much
Since I posted in this thread regarding the loose fitting PCV grommet, I've replaced my old PCV valve/grommet as a set. Here are the Part numbers for anyone looking to do the same.
Please check to make sure these work with your vehicle before buying. They were the right part numbers for my 2000 2.5L and should be good for the OP's 1998 2.5L.
PCV Valve: F67Z-6A666-AB
PCV Grommet: C9AZ-2B176-B
I got them from the local Ford Stealership since they're literally right next door.
PCV Valve- $24.16
Grommet- $6.57
Note- Unrelated to this post, but I also replaced the defective Brake Booster Check Valve and grommet. Here are the part numbers just in case someone reading this needs them.
Booster Check Valve: DOAZ-2365-A
Booster Grommet: E7AZ-6A892-A
Stealership Prices:
Check Valve- $12.15
Grommet- $25.52 (Ouch)
Total for everything came to $72.50 after PA 6% sales tax.
Just search each part number for alternative purchasing options and prices.

 
Related Topics
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
pelicanman
2.9L & 3.0L V6 Tech
12
09-08-2021 12:19 PM
bobkingfish1
4.0L OHV & SOHC V6 Tech
5
12-28-2019 06:49 AM
Warstlerjr
4.0L OHV & SOHC V6 Tech
2
10-14-2019 09:42 AM
Sparky-WIshItWas
DOHC - 2.3L Duratec / Mazda L Engines
2
08-05-2017 08:05 AM
rchoungping
SOHC - 2.3L & 2.5L Lima Engines
8
09-09-2011 05:08 AM



Quick Reply: 2.5 1998 pcv valve location



All times are GMT -6. The time now is 01:28 PM.