Tail Light Mod to end all Tail Light Mods......Pics galore....
#1
Tail Light Mod to end all Tail Light Mods......Pics galore....
Well I am finished modding the exterior of my vehicles with LED's because I have no more incandescent bulbs to replace. Every bulb on my Evo and my Ranger is now either LED or HID.
My Ranger I am very proud of. Instead of buying 3157 LED bulbs to replace the stock bulbs with LED plugins I used Fiber Optic Multi LED L1224R Bulbs. These are the ones they use in the expensive luxury cars, except I used 4 of them instead of just 2 because my aftermarket tail lights have 2 red spots per each. I already replaced the white with a white LED bulb forever ago (you can find the pics in my other threads)
Using the L1224R's required me to mod the back of the bulb housing so that it had a mating keyhole for the bulbs to secure into. I cut the back off of 4 tail lights that used these lights so I could get 4 bulbs and 4 bases. Everything was epoxied together and it took a few days to dry. The results speak for themselves.
If anyone says "LED's are never as bright as stock" - guess what: I just proved you WRONG!
I also used 18 SMT LEDs to make 2 boards for my CHMSL (Center High Mount Stop Light)
This came out awesome, I would say they are are brighter than stock, and the best thing is I made them as wide as possible after I cut open the CHMSL because my truck does not have cargo lights.
I also replaced the front amber lights with Plugin LEDs from v-leds.com. I used the 60 SMT LED 3157s for my turnsignals (49.99$ A pair) and the 9 LED 194 for the sidemarkers (9.99$ I think)
These photos speak for themselves....no more comments from me needed.
My Ranger I am very proud of. Instead of buying 3157 LED bulbs to replace the stock bulbs with LED plugins I used Fiber Optic Multi LED L1224R Bulbs. These are the ones they use in the expensive luxury cars, except I used 4 of them instead of just 2 because my aftermarket tail lights have 2 red spots per each. I already replaced the white with a white LED bulb forever ago (you can find the pics in my other threads)
Using the L1224R's required me to mod the back of the bulb housing so that it had a mating keyhole for the bulbs to secure into. I cut the back off of 4 tail lights that used these lights so I could get 4 bulbs and 4 bases. Everything was epoxied together and it took a few days to dry. The results speak for themselves.
If anyone says "LED's are never as bright as stock" - guess what: I just proved you WRONG!
I also used 18 SMT LEDs to make 2 boards for my CHMSL (Center High Mount Stop Light)
This came out awesome, I would say they are are brighter than stock, and the best thing is I made them as wide as possible after I cut open the CHMSL because my truck does not have cargo lights.
I also replaced the front amber lights with Plugin LEDs from v-leds.com. I used the 60 SMT LED 3157s for my turnsignals (49.99$ A pair) and the 9 LED 194 for the sidemarkers (9.99$ I think)
These photos speak for themselves....no more comments from me needed.
#4
LED's come on instantly when you apply a current to them. Filament bulbs have to heat up and then fade on.
This translates to 20 Feet of braking distance while traveling at 70mph.
I'll take 20 extra feet of safety room on the highway so I don't get a car up my **** when I hit the brakes and some jerk behind me isn't paying attention.
Also, the color is so VIVIDLY red. It dosent look dingy and dull.
This translates to 20 Feet of braking distance while traveling at 70mph.
I'll take 20 extra feet of safety room on the highway so I don't get a car up my **** when I hit the brakes and some jerk behind me isn't paying attention.
Also, the color is so VIVIDLY red. It dosent look dingy and dull.
#6
Watch this video. Its from an Evo but you get the idea.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kNW6agSxUds
LED instant on, instant off.
Incandescent stock bulb slow on, slow off.
#7
I agree, but to each their own.
how did you calculate 20ft of extra breaking room?
Seems almost more dangerous because you could impair the persons vision behind you at night and actually cause an accident instead of preventing one.
just my opinion.
how did you calculate 20ft of extra breaking room?
Seems almost more dangerous because you could impair the persons vision behind you at night and actually cause an accident instead of preventing one.
just my opinion.
#8
Did I mention it uses less juice than the stock bulbs and saves me from using my alternator as much? This means I spend less on gas =)
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Think about how much you're going to have to use those LEDs to save actual money at the pump... You're alternator is going to be running, no matter what you do.. you can lower the amperage being drawn, that just saves on the alternator at a slow pace... You think I've actually saved money at the pump by going almost ALL LED and HID? They both draw less power than halogen and incandescent... I haven't seen 1mpg gain since converting... I call BS on that saving gas.
#16
Think about how much you're going to have to use those LEDs to save actual money at the pump... You're alternator is going to be running, no matter what you do.. you can lower the amperage being drawn, that just saves on the alternator at a slow pace... You think I've actually saved money at the pump by going almost ALL LED and HID? They both draw less power than halogen and incandescent... I haven't seen 1mpg gain since converting... I call BS on that saving gas.
#17
It's not gonna change dude... Doesn't matter what amperage change there is... You're not going to change you mpg.. only thing that will change that is where you place your foot on the pedal.
I love LEDs too, don't get me wrong.. They're brighter, last longer, and draw less... Just like HIDs, the reason I have them both... With LEDs it's nice having the instant on as well...
I didn't get them expecting a change in MPG though.
I love LEDs too, don't get me wrong.. They're brighter, last longer, and draw less... Just like HIDs, the reason I have them both... With LEDs it's nice having the instant on as well...
I didn't get them expecting a change in MPG though.
#20
Yeah, its not how much power is drawn thats saving amps thatll save gas..
no matter how much energy you save, its being pulled from the battery.. and the alternator is charging the battery, so no matter whats gone, the alternator will still be running at full swing the whole time.. even if its drawing 80% less.. as long as its on your belt line, it'll still be spinnign with the exact same resistance as before.
I do like the LED lighting though.. if I had the time on my hands.. I wouldnt mind doing somethign like that as well =)
no matter how much energy you save, its being pulled from the battery.. and the alternator is charging the battery, so no matter whats gone, the alternator will still be running at full swing the whole time.. even if its drawing 80% less.. as long as its on your belt line, it'll still be spinnign with the exact same resistance as before.
I do like the LED lighting though.. if I had the time on my hands.. I wouldnt mind doing somethign like that as well =)
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you should do a step by step of how to properly light up and sodler and set up all the LED work yoru doing.. I would really love to find a way to custom fabricate a third brake light with full LED clusters like that.. so its better then the recon one, and has a better cargo light area
#25
you should do a step by step of how to properly light up and sodler and set up all the LED work yoru doing.. I would really love to find a way to custom fabricate a third brake light with full LED clusters like that.. so its better then the recon one, and has a better cargo light area
Original plan was to replace all 3 spots in the CHMSL with plugin LEDs by using harnesses that connect into the unused holes. I ditched that and decided to go with the 18 LEDs on the circuitboards.