After work tonight I made what I consider some major progress.

Attached the driver's side down pipe (basically, the left half of the y pipe as I cut it over by the y in order to get the transmission out). I have a call in to my neighbor's friend who has offered to weld it up for me where I cut it.

Installed the fuel tank and skid plate.


Installed the rear drive shaft


Since all four wheels were off the ground (easier for drive shaft installation and to get some space to tilt in the fuel tank) I figured I was at a point where I could do a test start and maybe see if I can put it in gear with the engine running and get the wheels to turn. Turned the key on to prime once, then went ahead and cranked. It may have cranked for 10 seconds or so until it built enough fuel pressure and then it fired off. Stalled out but started again with no drama and stayed running. With that pipe cut off, it was pretty loud, but it idled nicely. I put the truck in 2nd gear and slowly let out the clutch. The driver's rear wheel spun. Put the clutch back in, applied the brakes to get the wheels to stop and put it in reverse. Let the clutch out and the tires moved the other way. So for the first time since I've owned this truck, the drive wheels moved under the truck's own power.

The punch list is truly becoming a short punch list now. What's left...

Weld up the exhaust
Rebuild the CV joint on the front drive shaft and install it (I have the kit)
Have the tires mounted on the aluminum rims I picked up since the rims it came on are so rotted I'm surprised they hold air at all.
Bed back on so I have lights
TEST DRIVE

 

And the drivetrain is complete. I rebuilt the cv joint on the front drive shaft today and installed it. I did a quick 4wd test and both front hubs did engage (vacuum hubs).



I also replaced the idler pulley as it was wobbly and a little noisy.

Volt meter tells me that the alternator is charging but I may need a battery. I’ll have to keep an eye on the sales as RonD would say.

The welder is going to come early next week and then I’ll be able to get on the road.

This project is close to completion.

 

Spent some time on odds and ends today.

I noted that the stereo would not play out of the passenger door. I did some diagnostics and determined that the radio was fine and the wiring was fine so the speaker was bad (multi meter showed it open). I decided to just get one from the salvage yard so off I went. I ended up grabbing four of the “2 way” speakers from an explorer to upgrade from the single cone ones I had. They are still stock type ford speakers but they all work and it sounds ok. I had to trim the opening in the back speaker to make them fit as the newer ones are deeper.



Once that was done I started checking and replacing lights that were out. The dome and map lights all didn’t work. I pulled the lens and there were no bulbs. Made me nervous that I had the dreaded door sensor issue but my test light showed that the sockets timed out when the door closed so I put bulbs in. All good there.

Next I needed to replace the corner bulb on the passenger side (the 194na bulb). In doing that I found that the headlight on that side was incorrectly mounted. I knew it wiggles and thought it was broken. Nope just someone put the clip on BEFORE pushing the light into the mount. I made sure the adjusters all were free and remounted it correctly and it’s as solid as it can be. I also replaced that bulb.

It was a productive day I think.

 

More busy work today. I did the 60/40 to bucket mod and installed a long console from a 2000 explorer. Still need to wire up the power tap. It’s grey and my interior is tan but I can live with it.

 

Some more busy work today. No photos as there isn't much to take pictures of.

Replaced the driver's door "door ajar" switch. No drama there except working a little blind to release the rods and finagle the thing out.
Replaced the blower motor speed control resistor and harness/connector. Again, nothing dramatic about it. Used the shrink tube crimp butt connectors since my soldering skills suck. I've had good luck with those in the past. Heated them to shrink the tubing and also taped them up. We'll see how long it lasts.

Welder is coming Wednesday around 4 PM. Once he finishes the exhaust, I will start putting the wheel liners and trim pieces back on and get a couple of friends to help me with the bed.

 

if you say, 60/40 bucket seat, please exactly does that mean? And is that centre console swap, compatible with an automatic transmission ranger too?

 

where's the blower motor resistor located at pls?

 

The 60/40 seat mod refers to taking the drivers seat (the 60% of the front split 60%/40% bench seat), cutting out that extra 20% where the arm rest is and reinstalling it as a bucket seat. This leaves room for a floor mounted center console.

TRS article on it: https://www.therangerstation.com/tec...-bucket-seats/
RF article on it: https://www.ranger-forums.com/interi...ket-seat-8285/

The long console will fit in either a manual transmission or automatic transmission Ranger. With the automatics, you also get the storage bin where my shifter comes through since your shifter is on the column. I simply removed the two compartment tray that was in the console to make space for my shifter.

Blower motor resistor is in the engine bay, bolted into the blower motor (passenger side firewall). It's a fairly common issue, not just in our Rangers/B-series. I replaced it in my 79 Celica at least three times (salvage yard parts each time back then).

ChrisFix has a video on this exact procedure including replacing the connector since they tend to get rusted into place on the pins

I bought mine from the local Napa. I got their Echlin Ignition part replacements. With the 20% AAA discount they are offering right now, I was under $40

Resistor: https://www.napaonline.com/en/p/ECHBR308
https://www.napaonline.com/en/p/ECHEC4

I hope that helps you (and anyone else reading who needs that info).

 

Well, mechanically, I am finished all of the work. The welder came today and fixed up the cut pipe. We even started it, checked for leaks and he keep going back until he was satisfied it was solid.

After he left I reinstalled the fender liners and other small things I had apart. All that remains is to swap the wheels, put the bed on and then I can drive it.

I will need to get it inspected but I’m confident it will pass (pending evap and catalyst monitors and such). In order to inspect it I’ll need to get some drive cycles to set the monitors. Fortunately I live in a small town so I’m hoping the police won’t bother me too much during that time.

 

Took the wheels over to Walmart and had them swap the tires onto the alloy wheels. So Rick is now off the jacks and waiting for me to get a couple of friends to help place the bed on.

 

The bed is on and for the first time since I have owned this truck, it moved under its own power. I backed it out of the driveway, drove down the block, turned around and came back. Drove nicely. I need to check on the power steering. Some whine and a little shudder on hard right turns. I did have the “engine not running but turned the wheel” blowout from the reservoir before so I’m hoping I just have air and low fluid.

I also identified a rusted out EGR tube. Hadn’t heard the leak before because of the cut off pipe/large leak. Ordered a new one from @RockAuto and hope to have it early next week.

I am beyond happy to have actually driven Ranger Rick, even if it was less than a mile.

Photo of the rotted EGR pipe

 

Update - bled out the power steering today including adding a little Mercon V. The shudder is completely gone. A little whine still there, but I can probably do the "turkey baster" fluid flush as the existing fluid is quite dark. Externally, the rack seems in good shape compared to the rest of the undercarriage, so it's possible it's been replaced. For now, it will be one of those "change the fluid and drive it until it breaks" things.

 

While waiting for my egr tube to arrive from Rockauto, I did some troubleshooting on the parking brake lite not coming on. For those who don’t know how it works start here. Otherwise skip a bit...

The “brake” light on the dash comes on when you push down the parking brake pedal, releasing the switch that’s mounted to it. Counter to what one might expect, releasing the brake actually pushes the switch causing it to open. The “normally closed” state is what lights the light and opening the switch turns it off.

The switch has a single wire and closing the switch just completes the ground to the circuit causing the light to come on. When the switch is opened, the circuit no longer has a ground and the light goes out. Since the light will also come on with a low fluid situation, I suspect there is a similar switch in the master cylinder operating on a float. Fluid at a level where the float pushes the switch open - no ground and the light stays off. Float comes down, closes the switch providing a ground and the light comes on. But I digress.

Pedal released, switch depressed opening the circuit - no ground - no light




“Normal” state closed - this is what happens when the pedal is depressed. Closed switch - grounded - light on


(People who understand the operation of this circuit can pick up again here for my diagnostic procedure)

On my Ranger, the “bulb test” worked on startup so I knew it was not the bulb. I removed the single 5.5 mm bolt that secures the parking brake switch to the parking brake assembly and disconnected the lead. With the key on/engine off I then provided a ground through that wire via my test light and the light came on. Great, circuit is intact. Multi meter showed high resistance through the switch. I can probably clean the contacts and try to get it working but I have opted to get a new one. It was a $20 switch that is easily replaced.

I should have the new switch Monday or Tuesday.

 

Last update for today. Got the old EGR tube off. It fought the evil fight. Some of the threads came with it (manifold side) but I’m hoping I can get it to snug up as the missing threads are on one spot and there is a complete set of good threads above and below it. If it leaks, I’ll have my mechanic deal with it even if he has to replace that fitting.

 

The EGR fitting needed to be replaced. Could not get the new tube to thread on. Worked yesterday to get the old fitting out - not an easy task. Good thing I still had that oxy/acetylene torch set as I used it to get the manifold glowing red around the fitting. Some of the threads came out with the fitting but I did manage to get the replacement to thread in and tighten up.

Once that was in, I hooked up the new egr tube, reconnected everything I had removed for access there and fired it up for a test. No leaks that I can hear or smell. If that was putting, I’d hear it and I would get a nose full of the raw exhaust. All good so far.

Pic of the old


Pic of the new one - Ford part f1az-9f485-a. Charged me 13 bucks.


I took Rick for a slightly longer ride at this point. Stickers expired in February of 2018 so I don’t venture very far. Went and got a fresh tank of fuel and used the digital air pump at the gas station to set all of the pressures in the tires.

Notes from the test drive:

The steering was good and no shaking.
The truck seems to drive straight.
Brakes are smooth and work well with no fade
I understand the moniker “3 point slow”

The test drive was cut short by a fire company dispatch. I went home and responded in my regular vehicle. When I returned home from the call, I grabbed the code reader and checked. No pending codes from the drive and 7 of the 8 monitors are all set clear now with only the EVAP monitor left.

PA inspection date is October 26 so I have just under two weeks to shake out any issues.

 

A couple little things to button up here today. On my test drive the other day I had trouble filling the tank. I looked at some threads and watched some videos and set about checking vents and solenoids and such. I removed the charcoal canister and blew through it. No obstructions. Applied 12 volts to the vent solenoid and it clicks. I can also blow through the solenoid with it powered off (open). Reassembled and started tracing up the line.

It turns out that the moron who installed the new filler hose installed it upside down. The bend that is in the hose to go up over the frame rail was at the wrong spot so to get over the frame rail the hose just kinked over. We won’t discuss the name of that particular moron at this time.

Pulled the bed bolts and slid the bed back far enough to access the tank. Flipped the hose over and reassembled. All good there now.

At this point, I’m just waiting for my inspection appointment on the 26th. All but the evap monitor have cleared and my mechanic said I’m good. Really, since I’ve owned it at least a year and haven’t put 5,000 miles on it (more like 15 at this time) in the last year, I could qualify for an exemption for the emissions so even if the evap system gives a leak code and lights the light, I'm good there.

I drove it around a little more just to shake out the bugs. Other than some buzzes and rattles that are probably normal, I’m pretty happy. Happy with the truck and especially with myself for actually getting this thing to this point.

Took some “final assembly” photos while I was out so if you’ve read this far, here is the eye candy

 

Ranger Rick passed the PA state safety inspection today. I have current stickers, registration and insurance and he can be driven on the roads legally now. While I still have some things to do on him, this project has come to a satisfying point.

 

Update: Rick has been doing well since his inspection a couple of weeks ago. I loaded up all of the scrap (old frame, etc) and brought it to the scrap yard. Used the 4WD to move around in the yard also. The truck is not a "daily" for sure but I've taken him on some longer trips than just around town (40 minute one way trips in traffic) and for a 22 year old vehicle, he's doing just fine. My brother in law used to work for an auto auction in the "intake" crew and has a set of blue lights with controller and directional ambers he wants to help me install so Rick can be a good response vehicle for me this winter.

 

Haven't posted here for a bit. I've been using Rick for some small trips and, God-forbid, using him as a pickup truck. During one of the snow storms, my brother called me and said that his wife (who works for meals on wheels) got a call from one of their clients who needed help with shoveling out her driveway. MoW doesn't do that but he asked if I would just help him take care of her. To quote his wife, "Can you two just make this happen". I picked him up in Rick and we loaded his snow blower in the back. Took care of her place and then he pulled a sneaky on me and said he "needed to stop by his church" where we proceeded to clear the sidewalks as well.

So far, Rick starts up and drives every time.