FULLSCALE's 1968 Mustang Coupe
#27
Joined: Mar 2009
Posts: 8,184
Likes: 4
From: Clinton, Ontario
Dug in a little farther today and the car does need a taillight panel the pair of bumper reinforcement brackets behind it and both outer wheelhouses! The list just keeps getting bigger!
Pretty much the only parts that look salvageable in the trunk (right now) are the inner wheelhouses and the front trunk pan section.
I picked up my rear frame rail repair sections today from a guy off Kijiji.... they're MUCH heavier than the original ones!
Pretty much the only parts that look salvageable in the trunk (right now) are the inner wheelhouses and the front trunk pan section.
I picked up my rear frame rail repair sections today from a guy off Kijiji.... they're MUCH heavier than the original ones!
#28
Joined: Mar 2009
Posts: 8,184
Likes: 4
From: Clinton, Ontario
Got a little more work done this afternoon after work...
Passenger side trunk floor is pretty much out, just need to finish removing the part attached to the rear crossmember.
Once that is finished I have to decide where to cut the frame rail. I think I'll do it just ahead of where the rusted inside part stops in the picture, everything forward of that seems good and solid.
The driver's side floor isn't as bad, but I need to do the frame rail there too so I may as well do the whole panel there too.
After I got sick of drilling out spot welds, I decided to strip the interior except for the dash. I also left the package tray in to protect the rear glass from sparks.
The driver's side floor is screwed, but the passenger side is solid. I think I can get away working on the torque box on the passenger side by just removing the front section of the floor, but the whole driver's side will be replaced along with the seat bracket panel.
The flash makes it look far worse than what it actually is!
That's all for today... I think tomorrow I may weld the spring perches on my 8.8 so I can get it out of the way.
Passenger side trunk floor is pretty much out, just need to finish removing the part attached to the rear crossmember.
Once that is finished I have to decide where to cut the frame rail. I think I'll do it just ahead of where the rusted inside part stops in the picture, everything forward of that seems good and solid.
The driver's side floor isn't as bad, but I need to do the frame rail there too so I may as well do the whole panel there too.
After I got sick of drilling out spot welds, I decided to strip the interior except for the dash. I also left the package tray in to protect the rear glass from sparks.
The driver's side floor is screwed, but the passenger side is solid. I think I can get away working on the torque box on the passenger side by just removing the front section of the floor, but the whole driver's side will be replaced along with the seat bracket panel.
The flash makes it look far worse than what it actually is!
That's all for today... I think tomorrow I may weld the spring perches on my 8.8 so I can get it out of the way.
#29
#30
Joined: Mar 2009
Posts: 8,184
Likes: 4
From: Clinton, Ontario
#31
Joined: Mar 2009
Posts: 8,184
Likes: 4
From: Clinton, Ontario
Spring perches are on!
I started by leveling the old axle to get the proper pinion angle reading and distance between the stock perches.
This is the first time I've had both axles together... I was originally worried that grinding off the upper control arm tabs from the casting on the 8.8 would make the axle too weak, but after seeing this one that came out of the car I think I'm fine! The 8.8 is much beefier.
Next my axle adapter that I made for my engine stand came in handy again... it was very easy to level it up and set the 5 degree angle.
I set the jig I made on top of the axle, centered it, double and triple checked everything and tacked the perches in place. After checking once more to verify that everything was exactly where it was supposed to be then the perches were fully welded.
I started by leveling the old axle to get the proper pinion angle reading and distance between the stock perches.
This is the first time I've had both axles together... I was originally worried that grinding off the upper control arm tabs from the casting on the 8.8 would make the axle too weak, but after seeing this one that came out of the car I think I'm fine! The 8.8 is much beefier.
Next my axle adapter that I made for my engine stand came in handy again... it was very easy to level it up and set the 5 degree angle.
I set the jig I made on top of the axle, centered it, double and triple checked everything and tacked the perches in place. After checking once more to verify that everything was exactly where it was supposed to be then the perches were fully welded.
#34
Joined: Mar 2009
Posts: 8,184
Likes: 4
From: Clinton, Ontario
Thanks Kris!
#36
nice work, i never got that beep in my 68, but its been gone for 15 years, and back then we never had the stuff to work with then, but now the sky is the limit, also one thing that would tie that front end together really nice would be a 1 piece export brace
1964 1970 Mustang and Cougar Export Brace | eBay
had one on my 68, between that, the monte carlo bar, the 720 LB front springs, and a 1 1/8" front sway bar, it handled like it was on rails
1964 1970 Mustang and Cougar Export Brace | eBay
had one on my 68, between that, the monte carlo bar, the 720 LB front springs, and a 1 1/8" front sway bar, it handled like it was on rails
#37
Joined: Mar 2009
Posts: 8,184
Likes: 4
From: Clinton, Ontario
#40
Joined: Mar 2009
Posts: 8,184
Likes: 4
From: Clinton, Ontario
I'll definitely have to look into a new one then... I bet they're a heavier gauge too.
Thanks! It needs a bit of work but it's solid overall.
Thanks! It needs a bit of work but it's solid overall.
#42
Joined: Mar 2009
Posts: 8,184
Likes: 4
From: Clinton, Ontario
I've found most replacement parts are heavier than the originals so I would imagine they are. My new rear frame rails are heavier than the originals.
I got the rear trunk/fuel tank crossmember mostly out last night. Once it's out I can screw the new one into place for now to use to line up my new frame rails. Finally almost to the point that I can add some new metal to this thing!
I got the rear trunk/fuel tank crossmember mostly out last night. Once it's out I can screw the new one into place for now to use to line up my new frame rails. Finally almost to the point that I can add some new metal to this thing!
#43
Joined: Mar 2009
Posts: 8,184
Likes: 4
From: Clinton, Ontario
Didn't get as much done this weekend as I planned... but figured I'd post up some pics.
I took these before I finished taking out the rest of the rear crossmember. It shows that it's easy to overlook problem areas. I don't really care because it was getting replace anyways, but at a quick glance (this part is hidden behind the rear bumper) you wouldn't really be able to tell this was "patched". It was just a new piece of metal welded at the top just to cover the bad spot. It wasn't there to reinforce, just to cover up!
Passenger side frame rail section is ready to be cut off and the new section welded on.
I took these before I finished taking out the rest of the rear crossmember. It shows that it's easy to overlook problem areas. I don't really care because it was getting replace anyways, but at a quick glance (this part is hidden behind the rear bumper) you wouldn't really be able to tell this was "patched". It was just a new piece of metal welded at the top just to cover the bad spot. It wasn't there to reinforce, just to cover up!
Passenger side frame rail section is ready to be cut off and the new section welded on.
#45
Joined: Mar 2009
Posts: 8,184
Likes: 4
From: Clinton, Ontario
#48
thats not bad at all, wide enough to have space to work on all sides of the car and deep enough for a fab area or more workspace at the front. i like it. we are looking for a house right now and it is so frustrating trying to find anything with a decent sized garage. the ones we find with good garages are not nice houses lol
#49
Joined: Mar 2009
Posts: 8,184
Likes: 4
From: Clinton, Ontario
That's exactly the problem we had. This one is long enough to fit two cars in... the Mazda hasn't been in all winter though as there's Mustang parts everywhere. lol
I never really looked at any houses unless they had a decent garage. When we were ready to give up I talked to the bank and they said it is possible to work some extra cash into your mortgage to build a garage/shop if it doesn't have one already there. The lady I talked to just said that you had to have some sort of plans that they could approve. I never looked into it any farther because we found this house shortly after but it may be an option for you!
I never really looked at any houses unless they had a decent garage. When we were ready to give up I talked to the bank and they said it is possible to work some extra cash into your mortgage to build a garage/shop if it doesn't have one already there. The lady I talked to just said that you had to have some sort of plans that they could approve. I never looked into it any farther because we found this house shortly after but it may be an option for you!
#50