Ford Rules Extended Radius Arm Build
#51
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While it's torn apart, cut off your frame side trac-bar mount and plate the frame around the mount. When I tore my truck down, where I had the leaf spring hangers welded onto the frame, the frame had started to crack (not the weld or the hanger, the frame itself)
#52
If you've got the room, you could run a tube from the frame where your trac-bar mounts across to the other frame rail to help stiffen it up.
While it's torn apart, cut off your frame side trac-bar mount and plate the frame around the mount. When I tore my truck down, where I had the leaf spring hangers welded onto the frame, the frame had started to crack (not the weld or the hanger, the frame itself)
While it's torn apart, cut off your frame side trac-bar mount and plate the frame around the mount. When I tore my truck down, where I had the leaf spring hangers welded onto the frame, the frame had started to crack (not the weld or the hanger, the frame itself)
#53
#55
If you've got the room, you could run a tube from the frame where your trac-bar mounts across to the other frame rail to help stiffen it up.
While it's torn apart, cut off your frame side trac-bar mount and plate the frame around the mount. When I tore my truck down, where I had the leaf spring hangers welded onto the frame, the frame had started to crack (not the weld or the hanger, the frame itself)
While it's torn apart, cut off your frame side trac-bar mount and plate the frame around the mount. When I tore my truck down, where I had the leaf spring hangers welded onto the frame, the frame had started to crack (not the weld or the hanger, the frame itself)
#57
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If you're going to run bolts through the frame, you need to run a boss through it so when you tighten the bolt it doesn't pull the frame together, and the bolts will eventually loosen.
#58
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Especially a trac-bar mount, it will see huge loads at that mount and I'd rather you spend an extra hour or so doing it right, then not worrying about it until you rip the mount off the frame and are driving an un-controllable truck.
Edit: I read "forget", so if you meant that you forgot, then nevermind.
Edit #2: Does the heim on your drag link not bind up at full droop? It looks like it's pretty close in the picture. Since there are no shocks on I can't tell. Looks like it's time for some high-steer arms.
#63
That doesn't matter. When you tighten the bolt it will squeeze the two sides of the frame together, and the nut will work its way loose. It doesn't matter how much loc-tite or lock-washers you put on it, the frame will flex/fatigue and the side of the frame will work its way away from the nut.
Especially a trac-bar mount, it will see huge loads at that mount and I'd rather you spend an extra hour or so doing it right, then not worrying about it until you rip the mount off the frame and are driving an un-controllable truck.
Edit: I read "forget", so if you meant that you forgot, then nevermind.
Edit #2: Does the heim on your drag link not bind up at full droop? It looks like it's pretty close in the picture. Since there are no shocks on I can't tell. Looks like it's time for some high-steer arms.
Especially a trac-bar mount, it will see huge loads at that mount and I'd rather you spend an extra hour or so doing it right, then not worrying about it until you rip the mount off the frame and are driving an un-controllable truck.
Edit: I read "forget", so if you meant that you forgot, then nevermind.
Edit #2: Does the heim on your drag link not bind up at full droop? It looks like it's pretty close in the picture. Since there are no shocks on I can't tell. Looks like it's time for some high-steer arms.
ill wait for high steer until i get a 60 then i will do it with the 3 link also
ooh i got the cross member in tonight and also got my holes drilled in the tube for plug welds there will be 6 plug welds on each tube and then the arm will be plated in as well
#65
That doesn't matter. When you tighten the bolt it will squeeze the two sides of the frame together, and the nut will work its way loose. It doesn't matter how much loc-tite or lock-washers you put on it, the frame will flex/fatigue and the side of the frame will work its way away from the nut.
Especially a trac-bar mount, it will see huge loads at that mount and I'd rather you spend an extra hour or so doing it right, then not worrying about it until you rip the mount off the frame and are driving an un-controllable truck.
Edit: I read "forget", so if you meant that you forgot, then nevermind.
Edit #2: Does the heim on your drag link not bind up at full droop? It looks like it's pretty close in the picture. Since there are no shocks on I can't tell. Looks like it's time for some high-steer arms.
Especially a trac-bar mount, it will see huge loads at that mount and I'd rather you spend an extra hour or so doing it right, then not worrying about it until you rip the mount off the frame and are driving an un-controllable truck.
Edit: I read "forget", so if you meant that you forgot, then nevermind.
Edit #2: Does the heim on your drag link not bind up at full droop? It looks like it's pretty close in the picture. Since there are no shocks on I can't tell. Looks like it's time for some high-steer arms.
No no, i totally agree with you! I forgot that the front of the frame was boxed and not open C-channel like the rear of the frame, so yea when the frame bends it will all loosen up!!! Do you buy a boss per bolt size, or is it just a piece of pipe or tube?? Might just use 3/16 metal to plate the frame and weld it on, I'm sure I can get a good enough bead on it to hold it on securely
#67
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No no, i totally agree with you! I forgot that the front of the frame was boxed and not open C-channel like the rear of the frame, so yea when the frame bends it will all loosen up!!! Do you buy a boss per bolt size, or is it just a piece of pipe or tube?? Might just use 3/16 metal to plate the frame and weld it on, I'm sure I can get a good enough bead on it to hold it on securely
#69
well one arm is done and the other should be done tonight sometime.
The arm is plated with .25 flat stock fully wleded then there are 6 plug welds on the tube extension and that is welded all the ways around on the end. im pretty happy with how it turned out. the extention is 17" long i ground the arm 7" up so the tube slides on the arm 7" and has ten left out.
The arm is plated with .25 flat stock fully wleded then there are 6 plug welds on the tube extension and that is welded all the ways around on the end. im pretty happy with how it turned out. the extention is 17" long i ground the arm 7" up so the tube slides on the arm 7" and has ten left out.
#73