Want to Buy: 83 Ranger: Driver's Side Wiper Linkage Arm w/Hardware: CT
#1
83 Ranger: Driver's Side Wiper Linkage Arm w/Hardware: CT
Looking for the driver's side windshield wiper linkage arm and associated hardware, and the wiper pivot itself. My linkage arm rusted away at the arm end, no hardware left either. Thanks!
#2
Getting more desperate. I cannot drive this thing until the wiper are known to be working due to unpredictable t-storms around here, Anyone?? I'm not yet certain but believe a plastic ball on the end of the left wiper linkage broke off the left wiper arm... at least, that's what it looks like. When I pull the right side out tomorrow, I'll see more of what's missing.
#3
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/SET-2...Q5fAccessories
I HIGHLY doubt anyone here would have a spare wiper arm for a truck that old.... best bet is to buy from ebay or other company.
I HIGHLY doubt anyone here would have a spare wiper arm for a truck that old.... best bet is to buy from ebay or other company.
#4
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/SET-2...Q5fAccessories
I HIGHLY doubt anyone here would have a spare wiper arm for a truck that old.... best bet is to buy from ebay or other company.
I HIGHLY doubt anyone here would have a spare wiper arm for a truck that old.... best bet is to buy from ebay or other company.
Actually, after I got it out of the truck today, I found all I need is the plastic doohickey that fits over the ball-end on the rotating wiper shafts, and snaps into a hole in the end of the linkage arm. However, the ball-end on the driver's side is pitted pretty deeply with rust so the plastic doohickey might not last too long, or may pop off easily, so I should replace the wiper shaft mount itself. This is the rotating shaft onto which the wiper arm fits, that goes through a large bushing that is secured to the inside of the vent panel with a 1-1/8" plastic nut on the outside of the bushing. The shaft has a lever on the inside end with the ball-end that goes into a hole in the end of the linkage arm. The plastic doohickey fits over the ball-end and goes through the hole in the end of the linkage arm, holding the shaft's lever to the linkage arm. I took a picture but have to find out how to post them here.
Is there a Ranger restoration store somewhere that might have this thing?
If I cannot find it, I'll have to try making a bolt with a nylon bushing and a couple of nuts work. That's a last resort, though, and probably won't work very well.
#7
Looks like a simply jerry rigging is all that is needed.
find yourself a bolt that will fit in that space with a large collar on it. then thread a nut on to the bolt. it may allow for enough pivot.
find yourself a bolt that will fit in that space with a large collar on it. then thread a nut on to the bolt. it may allow for enough pivot.
#9
I'd appreciate that, 99. However, it should be an early '80s Bronco; I think I saw a reference yesterday that 84-85 Bronco is the same as the 83-87 Ranger but couldn't tell for sure. To remove the wiper transmission (as the linkage arms, or pivot arms, inside the vent cover are called), there were two access covers to be removed (3 screws each), then the wiper motor had to be removed. That was the most difficult part as the lever connecting the motor shaft to the linkage arms didn't want to come off the motor shaft and it was difficult to stick a screwdriver where it could pry on the lever arm. By rotating the motor on the firewall, finally got the lever arm loose. Then you have to remove the large nuts on the wiper arm shafts (1-1/8" on my Ranger). Once those fall into the vent chamber, you can work the linkage arms through the center access hole and out of the vehicle. Will probably take at least a half hour if you haven't done it before. And a socket for those wiper arm shaft nuts is VITAL: I could not get a pair of pliers over those big nuts, the vent panel is too close to the nut sides and my socket just barely fit.
Got the rebuilt carb adjusted this morning, got the EGO changed last night, and drove the Ranger on some errands today, around 35 miles. When I was within 4 miles from home, I noticed the steery wheel was shimmying, then pressing on the brake pedal made the shimmy worse and it pulled to the right. Without brakes, it was beginning to pull to the left. Going up the hill toward home, it was very obvious something was trying desperately to lock up on the left front brake as the engine could barely do 30 mph whereas in the past, it had no trouble doing 60. Finally got home and drove it around to the back yard then jacked it up and took off the LF wheel. As the lug nuts came off and fell onto the grass, the grass started smoking. When I got the wheel/tire off, the whole rotor and the caliper was smoking. Further examination showed the piston was unable to go back into the caliper and so was trying to lock the pads on the rotor. The rotor was discolored with grab marks every couple inches around on both sides.
I let it cool awhile and finally got the caliper off (as it cooled, parts contracted a bit, freeing them up just enough to knock the caliper off with a hammer). Several pieces fell off the piston. The pads were fine with nearly 1/4" material left so it looks like the piston itself just couldn't go back into the caliper due to corrosion on the outside or something. I guess I'll replace both front rotors and calipers and brake hoses (wheel bearings, too). Sigh.... this thing is turning into a money pit. I bought it for $100 and already have around $300 into it, mainly engine tune up parts, carb rebuild kit (that, alone, was $56 and I got it at discount), several sets of plugs, O2 sensor, and much, much more. Seems like every new-old vehicle I buy, I wind up replacing the entire brake system from the master cylinder through the brake lines through rotors/drums/calipers/wheel cylinders/parking brake cables.
Got the rebuilt carb adjusted this morning, got the EGO changed last night, and drove the Ranger on some errands today, around 35 miles. When I was within 4 miles from home, I noticed the steery wheel was shimmying, then pressing on the brake pedal made the shimmy worse and it pulled to the right. Without brakes, it was beginning to pull to the left. Going up the hill toward home, it was very obvious something was trying desperately to lock up on the left front brake as the engine could barely do 30 mph whereas in the past, it had no trouble doing 60. Finally got home and drove it around to the back yard then jacked it up and took off the LF wheel. As the lug nuts came off and fell onto the grass, the grass started smoking. When I got the wheel/tire off, the whole rotor and the caliper was smoking. Further examination showed the piston was unable to go back into the caliper and so was trying to lock the pads on the rotor. The rotor was discolored with grab marks every couple inches around on both sides.
I let it cool awhile and finally got the caliper off (as it cooled, parts contracted a bit, freeing them up just enough to knock the caliper off with a hammer). Several pieces fell off the piston. The pads were fine with nearly 1/4" material left so it looks like the piston itself just couldn't go back into the caliper due to corrosion on the outside or something. I guess I'll replace both front rotors and calipers and brake hoses (wheel bearings, too). Sigh.... this thing is turning into a money pit. I bought it for $100 and already have around $300 into it, mainly engine tune up parts, carb rebuild kit (that, alone, was $56 and I got it at discount), several sets of plugs, O2 sensor, and much, much more. Seems like every new-old vehicle I buy, I wind up replacing the entire brake system from the master cylinder through the brake lines through rotors/drums/calipers/wheel cylinders/parking brake cables.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
Want to Buy: 4 Door Driver's Side Rear Door Lock Hardware - IL
rideac1
OLD - Interior, Exterior, Electrical, & Misc.
3
04-17-2012 07:30 AM
swoopkev
Exterior Semi-Tech
0
07-25-2010 08:47 PM
hcjag
General Technical & Electrical
0
05-24-2010 10:21 PM