2003 Ranger XLT FX4 Level II 4x4 m/t
#1
11-14-2019
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From: Tooele Utah
2003 Ranger XLT FX4 Level II 4x4 m/t
Hi my fellow Ranger owners,
I am new to this site and have joined looking for some help on my Ranger, ( Sons Ranger ) that I said I would help to get running!! I have read through many of the posts and have experienced many of the same problems but am needing some help with diagnosing a crank with no start condition. I am putting a summary of what I have done so that you may understand my exasperation.
1. Vehicle overheated as a result of a cracked bottom thermostat housing. After repairing I realized that it had a blown head gasket.
2. I pulled the engine and definitely had both heads full of antifreeze.
3 Sent the heads out to a machinist who repaired both heads and cams, new valves etc. as well as the crankshaft turned.
4. Put new main bearings, connecting rod bearings, new rings on saved pistons, and a complete timing kit from Cloyes as well as new head gaskets,
and complete new gasket kit.Note: I purchased the Ford timing tools to set the crank and cam.
5. While the heads were out, I put a new fuel pump, fuel filter.
6. I assembled the motor put it back in the truck and it started with the first try!!! Oh Yeah!
7. The truck sounded great at 2000 rpms but had a slight miss at idle and my test drive told me that it was not wanting to run between 1000 and 1500 rpms.
8. I pulled the plugs and all were perfect. Still having a rough idle. Plugs and wires are new but since the truck has 195,000 miles decided to replace the coil pack and IAC. The truck started right up and appeared to have fixed the idle issue. My son and I took it out for a test drive and it was missing slightly during starts but otherwise seemed good. After about three miles we heard a clunk and no throttle as it died on the shoulder of the road.
9. It has not started since and I have tested the fuel pressure, 0 pressure although the pump is priming with key on. We used starter fluid with no luck. We have spark but it will not start although it sounds like it wants to. I now wonder if it is the fuel regulator. My son thinks it is the timing, however, It was set up perfectly according to instructions.
10. I replaced the fuel shut off switch on passenger side, and checked fuses and relays, all good.
I am not a mechanic and have always worked on my motorcycles but this is my first rebuild. The fuel regulator has been discontinued and the two replacements have also been discontinued. The ones that are available are $$$$ $100 - $300. Since it wont start I cant check the regulator but I tried to move the diaphragm with a pump and it does not respond to the sucking.lol
any ideas would be greatly appreciated!!
Mykelyksit
I am new to this site and have joined looking for some help on my Ranger, ( Sons Ranger ) that I said I would help to get running!! I have read through many of the posts and have experienced many of the same problems but am needing some help with diagnosing a crank with no start condition. I am putting a summary of what I have done so that you may understand my exasperation.
1. Vehicle overheated as a result of a cracked bottom thermostat housing. After repairing I realized that it had a blown head gasket.
2. I pulled the engine and definitely had both heads full of antifreeze.
3 Sent the heads out to a machinist who repaired both heads and cams, new valves etc. as well as the crankshaft turned.
4. Put new main bearings, connecting rod bearings, new rings on saved pistons, and a complete timing kit from Cloyes as well as new head gaskets,
and complete new gasket kit.Note: I purchased the Ford timing tools to set the crank and cam.
5. While the heads were out, I put a new fuel pump, fuel filter.
6. I assembled the motor put it back in the truck and it started with the first try!!! Oh Yeah!
7. The truck sounded great at 2000 rpms but had a slight miss at idle and my test drive told me that it was not wanting to run between 1000 and 1500 rpms.
8. I pulled the plugs and all were perfect. Still having a rough idle. Plugs and wires are new but since the truck has 195,000 miles decided to replace the coil pack and IAC. The truck started right up and appeared to have fixed the idle issue. My son and I took it out for a test drive and it was missing slightly during starts but otherwise seemed good. After about three miles we heard a clunk and no throttle as it died on the shoulder of the road.
9. It has not started since and I have tested the fuel pressure, 0 pressure although the pump is priming with key on. We used starter fluid with no luck. We have spark but it will not start although it sounds like it wants to. I now wonder if it is the fuel regulator. My son thinks it is the timing, however, It was set up perfectly according to instructions.
10. I replaced the fuel shut off switch on passenger side, and checked fuses and relays, all good.
I am not a mechanic and have always worked on my motorcycles but this is my first rebuild. The fuel regulator has been discontinued and the two replacements have also been discontinued. The ones that are available are $$$$ $100 - $300. Since it wont start I cant check the regulator but I tried to move the diaphragm with a pump and it does not respond to the sucking.lol
any ideas would be greatly appreciated!!
Mykelyksit
#2
11-14-2019
Welcome to the forum
Sounds like a lot of work you did
If you added fuel manually, sprayed fluid into intake(this is called the 50/50 test), and it didn't start then you have no compression or no spark, only two option when that happens
I would test at least one cylinder on each side for compression
Expected is 160+ psi should be closer to 175 psi on the 4.0l SOHC engine
If compression is not above 120 psi then valve timing is not "OK"
If its OK then spark is next
Computer has no connection to starter motor or starter activation
Spark is only started when computer sees AC voltage from the Crank Sensor on the front of the engine down by the crank pulley
Crank sensor reads a tone wheel, looks like a gear, on the back of the pulley, as it spins
The Crank sensor generates AC voltage as that "gear" spins past it
There is one missing tooth on this "gear", that gap tells computer when #1 cylinder is at TDC, so tells computer when to fire spark plugs and injectors, its the main timing sensor
So very important sensor, about the only sensor that can cause a No Start, make sure its hooked up
Repeat 50/50 test as you go thru things, its the best test to do when you have a crank but no start situation
When it does start after doing this test THEN and only then look at the fuel system, for now ignore it
And since its a 2003 it will have PATS and use a transponder key, if you see the Theft light on the dash flashing rapidly after key on, then anti-theft has been activated and engine would not start because of that.
But it would not crank either, starter motor would be disabled
Sounds like a lot of work you did
If you added fuel manually, sprayed fluid into intake(this is called the 50/50 test), and it didn't start then you have no compression or no spark, only two option when that happens
I would test at least one cylinder on each side for compression
Expected is 160+ psi should be closer to 175 psi on the 4.0l SOHC engine
If compression is not above 120 psi then valve timing is not "OK"
If its OK then spark is next
Computer has no connection to starter motor or starter activation
Spark is only started when computer sees AC voltage from the Crank Sensor on the front of the engine down by the crank pulley
Crank sensor reads a tone wheel, looks like a gear, on the back of the pulley, as it spins
The Crank sensor generates AC voltage as that "gear" spins past it
There is one missing tooth on this "gear", that gap tells computer when #1 cylinder is at TDC, so tells computer when to fire spark plugs and injectors, its the main timing sensor
So very important sensor, about the only sensor that can cause a No Start, make sure its hooked up
Repeat 50/50 test as you go thru things, its the best test to do when you have a crank but no start situation
When it does start after doing this test THEN and only then look at the fuel system, for now ignore it
And since its a 2003 it will have PATS and use a transponder key, if you see the Theft light on the dash flashing rapidly after key on, then anti-theft has been activated and engine would not start because of that.
But it would not crank either, starter motor would be disabled
#3
11-15-2019
Thread Starter
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Member
Joined: Nov 2019
Posts: 4
Likes: 0
From: Tooele Utah
Welcome to the forum
Sounds like a lot of work you did
If you added fuel manually, sprayed fluid into intake(this is called the 50/50 test), and it didn't start then you have no compression or no spark, only two option when that happens
I would test at least one cylinder on each side for compression
Expected is 160+ psi should be closer to 175 psi on the 4.0l SOHC engine
If compression is not above 120 psi then valve timing is not "OK"
If its OK then spark is next
Computer has no connection to starter motor or starter activation
Spark is only started when computer sees AC voltage from the Crank Sensor on the front of the engine down by the crank pulley
Crank sensor reads a tone wheel, looks like a gear, on the back of the pulley, as it spins
The Crank sensor generates AC voltage as that "gear" spins past it
There is one missing tooth on this "gear", that gap tells computer when #1 cylinder is at TDC, so tells computer when to fire spark plugs and injectors, its the main timing sensor
So very important sensor, about the only sensor that can cause a No Start, make sure its hooked up
Repeat 50/50 test as you go thru things, its the best test to do when you have a crank but no start situation
When it does start after doing this test THEN and only then look at the fuel system, for now ignore it
And since its a 2003 it will have PATS and use a transponder key, if you see the Theft light on the dash flashing rapidly after key on, then anti-theft has been activated and engine would not start because of that.
But it would not crank either, starter motor would be disabled
Sounds like a lot of work you did
If you added fuel manually, sprayed fluid into intake(this is called the 50/50 test), and it didn't start then you have no compression or no spark, only two option when that happens
I would test at least one cylinder on each side for compression
Expected is 160+ psi should be closer to 175 psi on the 4.0l SOHC engine
If compression is not above 120 psi then valve timing is not "OK"
If its OK then spark is next
Computer has no connection to starter motor or starter activation
Spark is only started when computer sees AC voltage from the Crank Sensor on the front of the engine down by the crank pulley
Crank sensor reads a tone wheel, looks like a gear, on the back of the pulley, as it spins
The Crank sensor generates AC voltage as that "gear" spins past it
There is one missing tooth on this "gear", that gap tells computer when #1 cylinder is at TDC, so tells computer when to fire spark plugs and injectors, its the main timing sensor
So very important sensor, about the only sensor that can cause a No Start, make sure its hooked up
Repeat 50/50 test as you go thru things, its the best test to do when you have a crank but no start situation
When it does start after doing this test THEN and only then look at the fuel system, for now ignore it
And since its a 2003 it will have PATS and use a transponder key, if you see the Theft light on the dash flashing rapidly after key on, then anti-theft has been activated and engine would not start because of that.
But it would not crank either, starter motor would be disabled
Thank you so much for your assistance. The biggest problem I have is a Theory of Operation, with all the electronics and sensors running through the PCM, I do not know which may be prohibiting a start. You have given me great advice and I will let you know once I go through all your tips. I did replace the crank sensor and the cam sensor as well as a new oil drive gear where the old distributor used to be on earlier models.
I think I will be busy for a little while but I will keep the forum updated.
Mykelyksit
#4
11-17-2019
Thread Starter
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Member
Joined: Nov 2019
Posts: 4
Likes: 0
From: Tooele Utah
Welcome to the forum
Sounds like a lot of work you did
If you added fuel manually, sprayed fluid into intake(this is called the 50/50 test), and it didn't start then you have no compression or no spark, only two option when that happens
I would test at least one cylinder on each side for compression
Expected is 160+ psi should be closer to 175 psi on the 4.0l SOHC engine
If compression is not above 120 psi then valve timing is not "OK"
If its OK then spark is next
Computer has no connection to starter motor or starter activation
Spark is only started when computer sees AC voltage from the Crank Sensor on the front of the engine down by the crank pulley
Crank sensor reads a tone wheel, looks like a gear, on the back of the pulley, as it spins
The Crank sensor generates AC voltage as that "gear" spins past it
There is one missing tooth on this "gear", that gap tells computer when #1 cylinder is at TDC, so tells computer when to fire spark plugs and injectors, its the main timing sensor
So very important sensor, about the only sensor that can cause a No Start, make sure its hooked up
Repeat 50/50 test as you go thru things, its the best test to do when you have a crank but no start situation
When it does start after doing this test THEN and only then look at the fuel system, for now ignore it
And since its a 2003 it will have PATS and use a transponder key, if you see the Theft light on the dash flashing rapidly after key on, then anti-theft has been activated and engine would not start because of that.
But it would not crank either, starter motor would be disabled
Sounds like a lot of work you did
If you added fuel manually, sprayed fluid into intake(this is called the 50/50 test), and it didn't start then you have no compression or no spark, only two option when that happens
I would test at least one cylinder on each side for compression
Expected is 160+ psi should be closer to 175 psi on the 4.0l SOHC engine
If compression is not above 120 psi then valve timing is not "OK"
If its OK then spark is next
Computer has no connection to starter motor or starter activation
Spark is only started when computer sees AC voltage from the Crank Sensor on the front of the engine down by the crank pulley
Crank sensor reads a tone wheel, looks like a gear, on the back of the pulley, as it spins
The Crank sensor generates AC voltage as that "gear" spins past it
There is one missing tooth on this "gear", that gap tells computer when #1 cylinder is at TDC, so tells computer when to fire spark plugs and injectors, its the main timing sensor
So very important sensor, about the only sensor that can cause a No Start, make sure its hooked up
Repeat 50/50 test as you go thru things, its the best test to do when you have a crank but no start situation
When it does start after doing this test THEN and only then look at the fuel system, for now ignore it
And since its a 2003 it will have PATS and use a transponder key, if you see the Theft light on the dash flashing rapidly after key on, then anti-theft has been activated and engine would not start because of that.
But it would not crank either, starter motor would be disabled
RonD,
I did a compression test today and 0 compression. I guess my valves are open and hence no compression. Since I replaced the crank sensor and verified that it is hooked up, I am trying to understand how the motor gets out of time when all the critical timing is set at top dead center and tightened to spec.. If the sensor is not getting power, I haven't checked that yet, would that cause the camshafts to get out of time? It seems like when the cams are all set correctly and the chains are all coming off the crank, wouldn't that keep everything still in correct position?
To set timing I have to pull the motor, so I want to understand the failure mechanism to prevent future issues.
#5
11-17-2019
The 4.0l SOHC has no "keys" on the cams, so they are set/held in the correct position and tightened, so a friction hold, this how most OHC engines are today, no keys
Maybe you started off with the wrong mark on crank so both cams are off, assuming both sides are 0 psi
No the cam sensor just sends AC voltage with a pulse for TDC to the computer, it doesn't touch the cam
Maybe you started off with the wrong mark on crank so both cams are off, assuming both sides are 0 psi
No the cam sensor just sends AC voltage with a pulse for TDC to the computer, it doesn't touch the cam
#6
11-17-2019
Thread Starter
|
Member
Joined: Nov 2019
Posts: 4
Likes: 0
From: Tooele Utah
Welcome to the forum
Sounds like a lot of work you did
If you added fuel manually, sprayed fluid into intake(this is called the 50/50 test), and it didn't start then you have no compression or no spark, only two option when that happens
I would test at least one cylinder on each side for compression
Expected is 160+ psi should be closer to 175 psi on the 4.0l SOHC engine
If compression is not above 120 psi then valve timing is not "OK"
If its OK then spark is next
Computer has no connection to starter motor or starter activation
Spark is only started when computer sees AC voltage from the Crank Sensor on the front of the engine down by the crank pulley
Crank sensor reads a tone wheel, looks like a gear, on the back of the pulley, as it spins
The Crank sensor generates AC voltage as that "gear" spins past it
There is one missing tooth on this "gear", that gap tells computer when #1 cylinder is at TDC, so tells computer when to fire spark plugs and injectors, its the main timing sensor
So very important sensor, about the only sensor that can cause a No Start, make sure its hooked up
Repeat 50/50 test as you go thru things, its the best test to do when you have a crank but no start situation
When it does start after doing this test THEN and only then look at the fuel system, for now ignore it
And since its a 2003 it will have PATS and use a transponder key, if you see the Theft light on the dash flashing rapidly after key on, then anti-theft has been activated and engine would not start because of that.
But it would not crank either, starter motor would be disabled
Sounds like a lot of work you did
If you added fuel manually, sprayed fluid into intake(this is called the 50/50 test), and it didn't start then you have no compression or no spark, only two option when that happens
I would test at least one cylinder on each side for compression
Expected is 160+ psi should be closer to 175 psi on the 4.0l SOHC engine
If compression is not above 120 psi then valve timing is not "OK"
If its OK then spark is next
Computer has no connection to starter motor or starter activation
Spark is only started when computer sees AC voltage from the Crank Sensor on the front of the engine down by the crank pulley
Crank sensor reads a tone wheel, looks like a gear, on the back of the pulley, as it spins
The Crank sensor generates AC voltage as that "gear" spins past it
There is one missing tooth on this "gear", that gap tells computer when #1 cylinder is at TDC, so tells computer when to fire spark plugs and injectors, its the main timing sensor
So very important sensor, about the only sensor that can cause a No Start, make sure its hooked up
Repeat 50/50 test as you go thru things, its the best test to do when you have a crank but no start situation
When it does start after doing this test THEN and only then look at the fuel system, for now ignore it
And since its a 2003 it will have PATS and use a transponder key, if you see the Theft light on the dash flashing rapidly after key on, then anti-theft has been activated and engine would not start because of that.
But it would not crank either, starter motor would be disabled
Mykelyksit
#7
11-17-2019
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