95 ranger 3.0 XLT 5 speed

About 2 weeks ago my truck started dying while I'm coming to a stop. 9/10 times it will die when braking, everything seems fine but once I slow down to about 5 miles an hour, it will just die. Alot of the time I can just start it right back up and keep going until the next stop. But sometimes I can't start it back up a fit will just crank.

Any ideas?

 

IAC Valve would be my first stop

When you start the engine cold(without touching the gas pedal) does it REV to 1,500rpms or so then drop down to 1,000rpms or so, it should, thats the computer opening IAC Valve all the way for start up, then closing it a bit to set Cold idle
As engine warms up idle should drop to about 650rpms when fully warmed up
This is all the IAC Valve, ECT sensor and computer

I assume CEL(check engine light) works, comes on with key on, then goes off after engine starts?

If not then bulb may be burned out and you may have some codes that will tell you more of what the problem may be

 

That's pretty much how my truck starts up and idles.

I checked the codes and I have 3:

P1443 - Manufacturer Control
P0135 - O2 Sensor Heater Circuit Bank 1 Sensor 1 (this code has been present for awhile)
P1131 - Manufacturer Control

I don't think the p0135 is the cause because that's been present since I got the truck. As far as the other 2, I'm not sure what those even mean.

 

Any code that starts with P1xx is a manufacturer specific code, which means Ford, GM, Audi, Toyota, ect..................can use these for model specific trouble codes, thats what "Manufacturer Control" means, the car maker decides what each P01xx code means, you need to get a Ford list of trouble codes to see what they mean

Like here, this is an older list: https://www.therangerstation.com/tec...II_codes.shtml

P0xx are the generic codes that MUST be the same across all makers and models, these are OBD2 compliant "base codes"

P1131 Lack of Upstream Heated Oxygen Sensor Switch - Sensor Indicates Lean - Bank No. 1
P0135 02 Sensor Heater Circuit Malfunction (Bank 1 Sensor 1) << B1S1

The heater circuit is shared by all 3 O2 sensors in a 1995 3.0l Ranger, so getting a B1S1 specific code means either that O2 sensor's internal heater has failed or its wires for the heater have failed
Bank 1 is the passenger side of engine, and sensor 1 is the one closest to the engine on that side, the upstream sensor
Check the wires when engine is cold, coming from the O2 sensor up to the connector on the engine wiring harness, and unplug the connector and have a look inside and at the wiring on truck side
Most likely issue is that the wires on the O2 have touched the exhaust and melted causing the loss of heater circuit

Is that causing your stalling? maybe, but probably not, but it IS costing you money in gasoline, because engine is running Rich on that bank because its a False Lean condition
You do need to fix this, whatever the cost of a new O2 or time it takes to splice wires, lol, it will pay for itself in MPG saving in the next month or 2


P1443 Evaporative Emission System Control Valve (low/no flow)
This could indicate a vacuum hose has broken or come off, and that can cause stalling

EVAP valve is in the engine bay it will have 2 vacuum hoses(larger) and a 2 wire connector, usually on drivers side of engine or engine bay
The hose from intake manifold to this EVAP valve may have come off or is cracked or broken off

 

Just bought a new o2 sensor today and am about to go out and change it. I will look for the vacuum hoses and inspect them. Ill give an update when I have one.

Thanks!

 

Update: I installed the new o2 sensor and cleared the codes, it seems 2 of the trouble codes have been resolved. P1443 still remains though. After installing the new o2 sensor, I haven't noticed any changes, it still idles and runs like it did before, my mpg doesn't seem to have changed. My truck still continues to have the same behavior of dying while coming to a stop.

I looked at my vacuum lines and used carb cleaner method at the connections to check for a leaks and was not able to find one.i could also be doing something wrong though, I just followed a short guide on YouTube on how to do that. I do however feel like I am hearing some sort of hissing but I feel like it might be my fan or belt making that noise

 

When engine is stone cold, you can remove fan belt from crank pulley and then start the engine
Engine bay will be very quiet with no fan, so easier to track down a noise
Or there would be no noise if it was coming from fan belt or pulley

BUT!!!!!, you can only let the engine run for 1, maybe 2 minutes with no water pump, so be quick about it
Battery Light will stay on, that's OK as well

 

Idle Air Control Valve

 

Did you ever figure out what was causing your truck to stall? I'm having a similar issue.