Steering Wheel Shake on Bumps
#1
Steering Wheel Shake on Bumps
I just finished replacing the swaybar bushings, sway bar end links (moog brand, both sides) and the left front wheel hub assembly. All went well, but now I have a new shake when the front tires hit a fairly good bump at around 40 miles an hour or greater.
The wheel shakes considerably, but the vehicle stays true; no swerving or anything like that.
I torqued the hub assembly, sway bar bushing mounts(?), and both wheels to their respective spec, and tightened the end links until they appeared to expand. Is this because the end links aren't tight enough or do they just have to seat in? Not too overly concerned about it, but if I can fix it I'd like to.
The wheel shakes considerably, but the vehicle stays true; no swerving or anything like that.
I torqued the hub assembly, sway bar bushing mounts(?), and both wheels to their respective spec, and tightened the end links until they appeared to expand. Is this because the end links aren't tight enough or do they just have to seat in? Not too overly concerned about it, but if I can fix it I'd like to.
#2
always replace wheel bearings in pairs ( meaning both sides )
check rotors for warping , new bearing will not allow movement of the rotor rotating through brake pads
i replaced my 6 month old wagner rotors with ATE rotors , definately a difference
when i braked with the wagner rotors , they would be a vibration around that speed for several minutes
until i increased or decreased speed , no vibration with the ate rotors
i found that the wagner rotors were grinding against the caliper to knuckle mount increasing heat generated on the rotors
unbolt the caliper by unbolting sliding mount bolts and install and hand tighten 2 lug nuts on the rotor and look at the rotor position , there should be at least 5mm gap between the rotors edge and the caliper mount .
this gap is needed to allow the caliper to move freely after braking
check the caliper sliders for proper movement ( freely moves or seized in place )
check rotors for warping , new bearing will not allow movement of the rotor rotating through brake pads
i replaced my 6 month old wagner rotors with ATE rotors , definately a difference
when i braked with the wagner rotors , they would be a vibration around that speed for several minutes
until i increased or decreased speed , no vibration with the ate rotors
i found that the wagner rotors were grinding against the caliper to knuckle mount increasing heat generated on the rotors
unbolt the caliper by unbolting sliding mount bolts and install and hand tighten 2 lug nuts on the rotor and look at the rotor position , there should be at least 5mm gap between the rotors edge and the caliper mount .
this gap is needed to allow the caliper to move freely after braking
check the caliper sliders for proper movement ( freely moves or seized in place )
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