steering column electrical
#1
steering column electrical
97 ranger horn quit working and airbag light came on recently had dash out for heater core replacement when putt back together everything worked fine for a few weeks. I think there may be a connection broke inside the column I have removed all covers and have not been able to locate a problem there is a white plastic cover under steering wheel that I cant figure out how to remove it has a release near the center however it does not turn or pull off easily being plastic I don't want to force/break anything. any help would be great
thanks
thanks
#2
#3
The clockspring subharness is one piece with clockspring assembly and also contains the wire attached to the wiper in the ignition switch for the "key in" sense. To get to the wiper, the lock cylinder must be removed by inserting the key, turning it and then pushing up on a small plunger pin in a hole under the column. The key sense wiper is delicate and easily damaged during removal and installation.
Be sure that the replacement clockspring is correctly timed to the front wheel steering direction. The original probably got out of time when the dash was out and that's what caused it to break when the wheels were later turned fully to one side.
A new factory clockspring comes pretimed to the "straight ahead" front wheels position.
Junkyard clocksprings should be avoided especially on a front hit. If one is used, the timing must be rechecked/reset before installation. The yellow "release" near the center is for resetting the timing. Consult a shop manual or sometimes the timing instructions are printed on the housing.
#4
thanks
#5
There are 3 or 4 small plastic clips around the perimeter of the clockspring housing that snap onto the steering column. These should be easy to release by carefully using a small screwdriver.
The clockspring subharness is one piece with clockspring assembly and also contains the wire attached to the wiper in the ignition switch for the "key in" sense. To get to the wiper, the lock cylinder must be removed by inserting the key, turning it and then pushing up on a small plunger pin in a hole under the column. The key sense wiper is delicate and easily damaged during removal and installation.
Be sure that the replacement clockspring is correctly timed to the front wheel steering direction. The original probably got out of time when the dash was out and that's what caused it to break when the wheels were later turned fully to one side.
A new factory clockspring comes pretimed to the "straight ahead" front wheels position.
Junkyard clocksprings should be avoided especially on a front hit. If one is used, the timing must be rechecked/reset before installation. The yellow "release" near the center is for resetting the timing. Consult a shop manual or sometimes the timing instructions are printed on the housing.
The clockspring subharness is one piece with clockspring assembly and also contains the wire attached to the wiper in the ignition switch for the "key in" sense. To get to the wiper, the lock cylinder must be removed by inserting the key, turning it and then pushing up on a small plunger pin in a hole under the column. The key sense wiper is delicate and easily damaged during removal and installation.
Be sure that the replacement clockspring is correctly timed to the front wheel steering direction. The original probably got out of time when the dash was out and that's what caused it to break when the wheels were later turned fully to one side.
A new factory clockspring comes pretimed to the "straight ahead" front wheels position.
Junkyard clocksprings should be avoided especially on a front hit. If one is used, the timing must be rechecked/reset before installation. The yellow "release" near the center is for resetting the timing. Consult a shop manual or sometimes the timing instructions are printed on the housing.
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MydnightMyst
General Technical & Electrical
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03-07-2006 01:51 PM