My 2000 2wd 2.5 ranger had trouble starting the other day. It barley started with a weak crank. I drove to the store and there it wouldn't start at all. It clicked a few times when I turned the key then nothing. I pop started it and got it home.

I removed the starter and bench tested it and it turned over well. Then I put it back in the truck and got nothing. I put a screwdriver across posts on the solenoid while my wife turned it over.

The starter or solenoid just made a weak high pitched wine sound. I was getting good power to the solenoid.

I pulled the starter and it bench tested it again, it turned over for about 5 seconds then stopped, then I got nothing. I think i'm just going to replace everything but wanted to check and see if this sounded like a new starter and solenoid would get her starting again. Thanks

 

Solenoid on the starter motor should just make a "click" noise, one time, that noise is the solenoid moving to one end, this moves starter gear out and closes the high amp contacts to pass full battery AMPS to the starter motor.
Multiple "clicks" means motor is drawing too many amps(bad motor) OR battery can't provide enough amps, so battery or battery cable issues.
The multiple "clicks" is because solenoid is moving back and forth because each time starter motor gets power voltage drops and solenoid loses power so "opens" cutting power to motor, if you still have key turned to START, solenoid "closes" again, and voltage drops...............click, click, click

Test battery voltage first

Test it after it has has been sitting for a few hours, overnight if possible
You do not have to remove battery cables for the test
12.8volts is a newer battery
12.5volts is a 3 years old battery
12.3volts is a 5/6 years old battery, time to replace it

12.2volts(or lower) is done, will only hold 50% of original amps

Your starter motor needs 75 to 100amps to turn over the engine.

This requires good clean connections on BOTH battery cables
Positive cable can be good, clean and tight, but if Negative cable can only pass 50amps because of dirty connections then only 50amps can flow in the circuit, headlights would work fine, but not starter motor.

So check the battery cables, at BOTH ENDS of each cable

If battery checks out OK, then yes replace starter motor now that it is out.

People often think because headlights work then all must be well, headlights take 8amps, so no comparison with starter motor

If battery voltage is low then there could be an alternator problem
After engine starts test battery voltage again
14.5-14.9volts would be expected, this is ReCharge voltage
After 5 minutes, or longer, of engine running that voltage should drop to 13.6volts, this is the normal voltage for vehicle, keeps battery charged but doesn't "cook it".
At this time turn on ALL the lights, and turn heater fan to HIGH
Check voltage again, engine still running, should still be 13.6volts

 

Thanks, the battery reads 12.7 volts so I decided to get a new starter. I put it in and I get absolutely nothing when I turn the key. Prob didn't need a new one but It never hurts to have a fresh one in. Not sure where I went wrong. I seem to be getting power to the solenoid, if I test the power going into it against the ground I still get 12.5-12.7. Just absolutely nothing when I turn the key. I'm going to start messing with fuses and maybe the wire that comes from the ignition today?

 

2000 2.5l Ranger will have a starter motor activation like this

Ignition key-----------Fuse 24(cab fuse box)----------Neutral/clutch switch-------starter relay(engine fuse box)------starter motor

So when you turn the key to START, 12volts is sent thru Fuse 24(7.5amp) to the Range sensor(automatic) or Clutch pedal switch(manual)

Range sensor is on the transmission, on the shifter linkage, transmission must be in Park or Neutral or no voltage will be passed to starter relay, so try Neutral

Clutch pedal switch is under the dash above clutch pedal, on the push rod, clutch pedal must be pushed down to the floor to Close this switch, which would pass voltage to starter relay.
The clutch pedal switch can pop off the push rod so wouldn't close, causing a no start

Starter relay in the engine fuse box is activated by the Key in START
In V6 Rangers it is used as an anti-theft device(PATS), but in 4cyl Rangers it is just a Relay.
When starter relay closes 12volts is passed to Starter solenoid which activates starter motor, this is the Yellow/blue stripe wire on the starter solenoid, it comes from starter relay

 

2.5 manual ranger
Thanks, Ill look at the clutch switch, I think I may have been deleted over the years though because she's always started without pushing the clutch. I've been tinkering all morning and haven't solved it yet.

What engages the starter to turn the motor? If I bridge the 2 posts on the solenoid it spins the stater but not the motor. If I turn the key while the solenoid us bridged it just makes a loud grinding sound without turning the motor.

 

There should be two wires on the starter motor
Larger wire/cable comes from the battery +

Smaller wire is what activates the starter solenoid which in turn activates the starter's motor.

Image here: http://infinitybox.com/wp-content/up...tarterterm.jpg
And here: http://www.retro-ford.co.uk/shop/sit..._full/Z020.JPG

The "S" terminal on the starter solenoid is where smaller wire is connected, if you give that terminal 12volts then starter will turn the engine over

If you just short the two larger posts on the solenoid then electric motor will spin but not turn the engine

Your problem reads like the "S" post is not getting the 12volts from the Key
Check Fuse 24

If someone by-passed clutch switch then wiring may not be stock setup so hard to says where to look
Starter relay in engine fuse box may also be by-passed

 

Ok - Success. I can't that you enough RonD! You're help made the difference and I learned a lot on this trip. I'm not sure what the original not start issue was but somewhere along my journey I lost a good ground at the starter and I blew the red 50 amp ignition fuse. Per your advice I checked my fuses and saw that was done. Got everything back in order and she fired right up. Thanks again

 

Oh dear, I spoke too soon, Now everytime I start her I blow that 50 amp ignition fuse. Time to do some more research it looks like.

 

Starter motor is grounded to the bellhousing which is grounded to the engine which has battery negative cable attached.

There is no Ground wire on the starter motor

And yes you would blow a fuse if you hooked one up

 

Well that explains it, thanks again for the help.