Ranger Transmission Problem HELP!!
#1
Ranger Transmission Problem HELP!!
Hey all, having a problem with my 99 ranger 4.0 4x4 that i cannot figure out!
I recently replaced the 4.0 engine in my ranger and everything went well, no problems with the engine but now the truck will not move! following is a list of things i know that rule out a lot of the problems that I've determined are not the case:
1: Both the transmission and torque converter were 100% functional before the swap
2. the torque converter is seated correctly
3. the shift linkage is working properly
4.the transmission is spinning the torque converter and there is fluid going in the lines going to the transmission cooler
5. the transmission fluid is full
6. even when the rear tires are off of the ground there is NO movement at all
7. the shifter feels normal but there is no movement in any gear
with all of that said, i think that there could be some valve in the transmission that isn't letting the torque converter build pressure but i am no expert on transmissions whatsoever. any input to this question would be very much appreciated! thanks!
I recently replaced the 4.0 engine in my ranger and everything went well, no problems with the engine but now the truck will not move! following is a list of things i know that rule out a lot of the problems that I've determined are not the case:
1: Both the transmission and torque converter were 100% functional before the swap
2. the torque converter is seated correctly
3. the shift linkage is working properly
4.the transmission is spinning the torque converter and there is fluid going in the lines going to the transmission cooler
5. the transmission fluid is full
6. even when the rear tires are off of the ground there is NO movement at all
7. the shifter feels normal but there is no movement in any gear
with all of that said, i think that there could be some valve in the transmission that isn't letting the torque converter build pressure but i am no expert on transmissions whatsoever. any input to this question would be very much appreciated! thanks!
#2
Welcome to the forum
Having done this on my first automatic transmission install I speak from experience, costly experience.
It reads like you have broken the front pump inside the transmission.
When you pulled out the engine did you unbolt torque converter or pull engine out with it still attached?
You said torque converter was "seated properly" for reinstall of engine, that means it was put into bellhousing on trans shaft and rotated while pushing it in as far its it would go usually 2 or 3 slide ins until it is seated.
And when you bolted engine to bell housing it fit flush, you didn't have to used bolts to "force" engine and bell housing together(which means torque converter was NOT seated properly)
And then after engine and trans were bolted together you slide torque converter forward and install the bolts to hold it to flexplate.
If things do not go this way then trans need full rebuild to replace front pump.
Automatics need 120+psi fluid pressure, for forward gears, 150+ psi for reverse, so some flow in cooler lines doesn't mean much.
2 min. video here on seating a torque converter: www.youtube.com/watch?v=g7klzEV0kng
And you have to be careful that it doesn't slide out while installing trans or engine, or you will break the front(main) pump
Longshot is transfer case is in Neutral, but easy to check, does truck roll in PARK, if not then transfer case is "in gear"
PARK is in the transmission, transfer case is between trans and wheels, so if transfer case was in neutral truck would roll regardless of transmission selection
Having done this on my first automatic transmission install I speak from experience, costly experience.
It reads like you have broken the front pump inside the transmission.
When you pulled out the engine did you unbolt torque converter or pull engine out with it still attached?
You said torque converter was "seated properly" for reinstall of engine, that means it was put into bellhousing on trans shaft and rotated while pushing it in as far its it would go usually 2 or 3 slide ins until it is seated.
And when you bolted engine to bell housing it fit flush, you didn't have to used bolts to "force" engine and bell housing together(which means torque converter was NOT seated properly)
And then after engine and trans were bolted together you slide torque converter forward and install the bolts to hold it to flexplate.
If things do not go this way then trans need full rebuild to replace front pump.
Automatics need 120+psi fluid pressure, for forward gears, 150+ psi for reverse, so some flow in cooler lines doesn't mean much.
2 min. video here on seating a torque converter: www.youtube.com/watch?v=g7klzEV0kng
And you have to be careful that it doesn't slide out while installing trans or engine, or you will break the front(main) pump
Longshot is transfer case is in Neutral, but easy to check, does truck roll in PARK, if not then transfer case is "in gear"
PARK is in the transmission, transfer case is between trans and wheels, so if transfer case was in neutral truck would roll regardless of transmission selection
#3
thanks for your help!
i watched that same video and im confident that the torque converter is in there properly! theres quite alot of pressure in the cooling line so i thought that the pump was working properly. is there any valve or anything like that that regulates the flow of the fluid?
i watched that same video and im confident that the torque converter is in there properly! theres quite alot of pressure in the cooling line so i thought that the pump was working properly. is there any valve or anything like that that regulates the flow of the fluid?
#4
No, the solenoids added in the electronic transmissions are there for smoother shifting and more accurate shift points.
Transmission will function with all solenoids unpowered it would just have harsher shifts, but all 'gears' would be available, forward and reverse
Same for torque converters, "lockup" is not needed for you to drive vehicle, it just makes for better MPG if it can "lockup" once you are moving
There are bolts on the side of the transmission where pressure can be tested, gauge needs to be able go up to 300psi just in case
1999 4.0l Ranger will have a 5R55E automatic, 1998 to 2012 4.0l Rangers used this 5-speed automatic transmission
Good post here with some numbers: https://www.explorerforum.com/forums...-diary.428970/
Transmission will function with all solenoids unpowered it would just have harsher shifts, but all 'gears' would be available, forward and reverse
Same for torque converters, "lockup" is not needed for you to drive vehicle, it just makes for better MPG if it can "lockup" once you are moving
There are bolts on the side of the transmission where pressure can be tested, gauge needs to be able go up to 300psi just in case
1999 4.0l Ranger will have a 5R55E automatic, 1998 to 2012 4.0l Rangers used this 5-speed automatic transmission
Good post here with some numbers: https://www.explorerforum.com/forums...-diary.428970/
Last edited by RonD; 07-21-2018 at 12:01 PM.
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