Random Intermittent Crank/No Start
#1
Random Intermittent Crank/No Start
1995 Ranger XLT 3.0 4WD Manual
Recently my truck has been experiencing odd starting conditions. Normally it starts up right away, but sometimes like 1 out of 100 starts it will just continue to crank without any attempt at all to fire the engine. I'll attempt to start it a few more times and it'll continue to just crank and nothing. I'm unsure of the condition that causes this to change but like 5 or so minutes later, I'll crank the engine and it fires right up no problem.
For example: I did some driving around town a little bit ago, probably turned on/off my truck like 3 times without issue, I stopped at a store on my way home for like 10 minutes, hopped back in my truck and Bam, just cranks the engine, no attempt to fire. I try a few more times without success. So I run back into the store to see if they carried starting fluid(they didn't), so I went back to my truck, I was only in there for roughly 2 minutes. So I decide to give it another whirl and it fires right up without any problem at all.
I'm not sure what it could be, so any advice helps out as I'd like to get whatever it is fixed before it decides to not start when I'm far away from home or something.
Recently my truck has been experiencing odd starting conditions. Normally it starts up right away, but sometimes like 1 out of 100 starts it will just continue to crank without any attempt at all to fire the engine. I'll attempt to start it a few more times and it'll continue to just crank and nothing. I'm unsure of the condition that causes this to change but like 5 or so minutes later, I'll crank the engine and it fires right up no problem.
For example: I did some driving around town a little bit ago, probably turned on/off my truck like 3 times without issue, I stopped at a store on my way home for like 10 minutes, hopped back in my truck and Bam, just cranks the engine, no attempt to fire. I try a few more times without success. So I run back into the store to see if they carried starting fluid(they didn't), so I went back to my truck, I was only in there for roughly 2 minutes. So I decide to give it another whirl and it fires right up without any problem at all.
I'm not sure what it could be, so any advice helps out as I'd like to get whatever it is fixed before it decides to not start when I'm far away from home or something.
#2
I would pick up a spark tester and next time it acts up put the tester on. The starter fluid is also a good idea to pack. Next time it acts up you should at least be able to narrow it down to spark or fuel. Its sounds electrical what ever it is. I'm going to take a stab and say bad ground or relay :)
#3
I've got a spark tester as well as a push button starter that I can hook up to the battery and starter to crank the engine. The only problem with that is it won't crank unless the clutch is engaged. Is there a way I'm able to quickly bypass the clutch safety switch to be able to do this test if need be?
#5
Couple of things you can do
Look......at the CEL(check engine light), make sure it comes on with the key, that means computer is booting up, no computer = no fuel, but starter will still work
Listen....for the fuel pump in the gas tank, it will run for 2 seconds, and 2 seconds ONLY, when you turn on the key, easy to hear if you know what to listen for, a HUMMMM
It will run for those 2 seconds EACH TIME you turn key on, so repeat as much as needed so you know what it sounds like, can't hurt anything by turn key off and on
Next No Start check these out
Spark is a long shot in 1995 and up Rangers, its computer controlled instead of a separate module so very reliable, unless computer is not on
And much better, and easier, way to test spark is with 50/50 test
Spray Quick Start or gasoline into the engine and crank it
If it starts and dies spark is good but fuel delivery is not
If it doesn't start then spark is off
50/50
Intermittent Crank but No Start is 99% of the time a fuel issue, fuel pump doesn't start, could be fuel pump relay going bad, its wiring or Fuel Pump itself
Electric motors like the fuel pump are hard to start, thats when they draw the highest AMPs, on startup, so if there is a problem they don't quit while driving, they just won't start up one day
In the cab passenger side footlwell or kick panel will be the inertia switch, it cuts power to fuel pump if there is a sudden stop(accident), or a rollover, you can hook up a 12volt test light(or meter) to that switch and a ground, and then monitor the Voltage being sent to the fuel pump on start up.
Again it only gets full 12v for 2 seconds, then 5-8v from a monitor circuit, until engine is above 400RPMs(started), then computer turns on full 12v again until you shut off the engine
Look......at the CEL(check engine light), make sure it comes on with the key, that means computer is booting up, no computer = no fuel, but starter will still work
Listen....for the fuel pump in the gas tank, it will run for 2 seconds, and 2 seconds ONLY, when you turn on the key, easy to hear if you know what to listen for, a HUMMMM
It will run for those 2 seconds EACH TIME you turn key on, so repeat as much as needed so you know what it sounds like, can't hurt anything by turn key off and on
Next No Start check these out
Spark is a long shot in 1995 and up Rangers, its computer controlled instead of a separate module so very reliable, unless computer is not on
And much better, and easier, way to test spark is with 50/50 test
Spray Quick Start or gasoline into the engine and crank it
If it starts and dies spark is good but fuel delivery is not
If it doesn't start then spark is off
50/50
Intermittent Crank but No Start is 99% of the time a fuel issue, fuel pump doesn't start, could be fuel pump relay going bad, its wiring or Fuel Pump itself
Electric motors like the fuel pump are hard to start, thats when they draw the highest AMPs, on startup, so if there is a problem they don't quit while driving, they just won't start up one day
In the cab passenger side footlwell or kick panel will be the inertia switch, it cuts power to fuel pump if there is a sudden stop(accident), or a rollover, you can hook up a 12volt test light(or meter) to that switch and a ground, and then monitor the Voltage being sent to the fuel pump on start up.
Again it only gets full 12v for 2 seconds, then 5-8v from a monitor circuit, until engine is above 400RPMs(started), then computer turns on full 12v again until you shut off the engine
Last edited by RonD; 01-30-2019 at 10:08 AM.
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