Please help. Low beam harness to multifunction switch was burnt .
#1
Please help. Low beam harness to multifunction switch was burnt .
Well i finally figured out why my low beams werent working . I disconnected my multifunction switch and when i take off the connector harness for the low beam from the multi switch it just partially broke off . It was hot and melted . Some fluid as well mightve been the plastic burning .
anyway what can i do here ? Can i just buy a new multifunction switch? Or will i have to get new wiring or something?
#2
RF Veteran
iTrader: (1)
Welcome to the forum
What YEAR Ranger????
Yes, a new switch
Cut the wires on that connector, so you can splice them to new connector
Hit wrecking yard, with connector in hand, and find a matching one
You will need to test the burned wire with an ohm meter to ground to see if they may be shorted, also check the fuse panel, someone may have put in a bigger fuse because correct fuse kept blowing, lol, and this of course would make THE WIRES the fuse after that so they get very very HOT
The way a fuse works is when it gets too hot is melts and cuts the circuit and that stops current flow and keeps wires from getting hot and melting
Looks like Red/black wire and Red/yellow wire that got hot?
These are YEAR dependent............................
Red/black is the 12volts OUT to low beam head lights, it runs to the fuse panel to power TWO fuses one for each head light, tell me the ya=ear and I will tell you the fuse numbers
The Red/yellow is the 12volts IN from the head light switch, switch has a fuse as well
battery-----fuse------head light switch------------(red/yellow)---------------Multi-function switch---------------(red/black)-----------fuse--------------head light bulb
The red/black wire can also be powered by Daylight running light module, so if you have DRL then that could be shorted and has its own fuse
The head light switch fuse is 30amp
And the DRL fuse is 20amp
One of these should have blown before wires got that hot
Try to always include at least the year of the ranger in posts
engine and trans is good too
What YEAR Ranger????
Yes, a new switch
Cut the wires on that connector, so you can splice them to new connector
Hit wrecking yard, with connector in hand, and find a matching one
You will need to test the burned wire with an ohm meter to ground to see if they may be shorted, also check the fuse panel, someone may have put in a bigger fuse because correct fuse kept blowing, lol, and this of course would make THE WIRES the fuse after that so they get very very HOT
The way a fuse works is when it gets too hot is melts and cuts the circuit and that stops current flow and keeps wires from getting hot and melting
Looks like Red/black wire and Red/yellow wire that got hot?
These are YEAR dependent............................
Red/black is the 12volts OUT to low beam head lights, it runs to the fuse panel to power TWO fuses one for each head light, tell me the ya=ear and I will tell you the fuse numbers
The Red/yellow is the 12volts IN from the head light switch, switch has a fuse as well
battery-----fuse------head light switch------------(red/yellow)---------------Multi-function switch---------------(red/black)-----------fuse--------------head light bulb
The red/black wire can also be powered by Daylight running light module, so if you have DRL then that could be shorted and has its own fuse
The head light switch fuse is 30amp
And the DRL fuse is 20amp
One of these should have blown before wires got that hot
Try to always include at least the year of the ranger in posts
engine and trans is good too
Last edited by RonD; 04-14-2019 at 12:52 PM.
#3
Hey sorry, 93 ranger 2.3 L
Welcome to the forum
What YEAR Ranger????
Yes, a new switch
Cut the wires on that connector, so you can splice them to new connector
Hit wrecking yard, with connector in hand, and find a matching one
You will need to test the burned wire with an ohm meter to ground to see if they may be shorted, also check the fuse panel, someone may have put in a bigger fuse because correct fuse kept blowing, lol, and this of course would make THE WIRES the fuse after that so they get very very HOT
The way a fuse works is when it gets too hot is melts and cuts the circuit and that stops current flow and keeps wires from getting hot and melting
Looks like Red/black wire and Red/yellow wire that got hot?
These are YEAR dependent............................
Red/black is the 12volts OUT to low beam head lights, it runs to the fuse panel to power TWO fuses one for each head light, tell me the ya=ear and I will tell you the fuse numbers
The Red/yellow is the 12volts IN from the head light switch, switch has a fuse as well
battery-----fuse------head light switch------------(red/yellow)---------------Multi-function switch---------------(red/black)-----------fuse--------------head light bulb
The red/black wire can also be powered by Daylight running light module, so if you have DRL then that could be shorted and has its own fuse
The head light switch fuse is 30amp
And the DRL fuse is 20amp
One of these should have blown before wires got that hot
Try to always include at least the year of the ranger in posts
engine and trans is good too
What YEAR Ranger????
Yes, a new switch
Cut the wires on that connector, so you can splice them to new connector
Hit wrecking yard, with connector in hand, and find a matching one
You will need to test the burned wire with an ohm meter to ground to see if they may be shorted, also check the fuse panel, someone may have put in a bigger fuse because correct fuse kept blowing, lol, and this of course would make THE WIRES the fuse after that so they get very very HOT
The way a fuse works is when it gets too hot is melts and cuts the circuit and that stops current flow and keeps wires from getting hot and melting
Looks like Red/black wire and Red/yellow wire that got hot?
These are YEAR dependent............................
Red/black is the 12volts OUT to low beam head lights, it runs to the fuse panel to power TWO fuses one for each head light, tell me the ya=ear and I will tell you the fuse numbers
The Red/yellow is the 12volts IN from the head light switch, switch has a fuse as well
battery-----fuse------head light switch------------(red/yellow)---------------Multi-function switch---------------(red/black)-----------fuse--------------head light bulb
The red/black wire can also be powered by Daylight running light module, so if you have DRL then that could be shorted and has its own fuse
The head light switch fuse is 30amp
And the DRL fuse is 20amp
One of these should have blown before wires got that hot
Try to always include at least the year of the ranger in posts
engine and trans is good too
#4
Old Guy User…
iTrader: (12)
Quickly looking at the connector/wires (what can be seen) in the picture, it appears the heat was at the MFS, more than the harness BUT...
Just to be safe, when you are cross checking the wires to ground, as RonD suggested, do this:
1) Attach one of the Probes from the Volt Ohm Meter, (VOM),to any of the wires in the harness.
2) Using the other VOM Probe, touch each of the wires in the harness.
3) Repeat for each wire.
If you get any readings on the VOM in the above method, the harness will either need to be taken apart to see how much damage there is or replaced.
The reason, dependent on the actual heat level the harness was subjected to, you could have melted wires in the harness, which also are shorted to each other.
Also check the Headlight Switch for burn marks of any type, if there are any you should start checking the Headlight Harness,
Ltr
Just to be safe, when you are cross checking the wires to ground, as RonD suggested, do this:
1) Attach one of the Probes from the Volt Ohm Meter, (VOM),to any of the wires in the harness.
2) Using the other VOM Probe, touch each of the wires in the harness.
3) Repeat for each wire.
If you get any readings on the VOM in the above method, the harness will either need to be taken apart to see how much damage there is or replaced.
The reason, dependent on the actual heat level the harness was subjected to, you could have melted wires in the harness, which also are shorted to each other.
Also check the Headlight Switch for burn marks of any type, if there are any you should start checking the Headlight Harness,
Ltr
#5
RF Veteran
iTrader: (1)
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