RE: 2010 2WD 2.3L Differential pinion seal

A few months ago, I replaced the pinion seal without thinking (something I do quite often) about having to get the pinion back to exactly where it was set when I removed the yoke. While I have not heard or felt any indications of improper meshing, the seal is leaking again and I started to work on changing it out. Once again, I removed the yoke without paying attention, not that it would have mattered since it was not properly installed last time.
Now that I finally figured out that I the pinion has to be re-set correctly in this process, what do I need to do? I am prepared for the worst, that is, to pull the carrier and at least put in a new crush sleeve and go through the appropriate set-up process. If there is no apparent damage, I hope that is the only thing I need to replace.
Thanks for your help.

 

On the Rangers 8.8" differential you don't need to do much when just replacing the pinion seal, but you should get in/lb torque it takes to turn yoke pinion, which you can't do since that is not what you did before


Google: How to Replace Pinion Seal & Yoke 1998-2011 Ford Ranger

Watch the video
You will see him loosen the brakes and then get the current rotational torque, in in/lbs, of the pinion
With old pinion bearings it's usually about 10-14in/lb
Check what yours is now
If its that then you are probably OK, If not just reinstall with 14in/lb and hope for the best, or rebuild the while differential

If you over tighten the yoke nut(rotational torque too high) then you have to remove yoke and replace the crush washer again, because if you just back it off it WILL leak again

 

Can the crush washer be replaced from the spline end without pulling the whole carrier?

I have disc brakes on the rear, so I will have to pull the caliper out of contact with the rotor.

Thanks for your response Ron.

 

Sorry not a crush washer but it looked like a second seal on the back of the yoke plate

Use a screwdriver to push pad/caliper piston(s) back into caliper so the pads are not rubbing on rotor, open bleeder if needed, then axle can spin freely

The rotational toque in this case is the bearing/spin load when pinion gear is pulled back against the inside of the differential, against it shims that were installed to align pinion and ring gear, you want to match original load if possible, you can't, so just use spec in/lb
It will be fine