No crank/Popped
#1
No crank/Popped
2002 ford ranger 4.0
Had a cheap after market radio hooked up by a friend, cut and crimp wires, double checked everything
Hooked up turned truck on and nothing
the headlights were turned on from earlier and then we heard a loud popped under the (hood area)
turned truck off, look under hood saw nothing
tried to turn truck back on and now have a no crank issue
Lights on dash work and headlights work in cab with key on but when in start position nothing not even a click
Had a cheap after market radio hooked up by a friend, cut and crimp wires, double checked everything
Hooked up turned truck on and nothing
the headlights were turned on from earlier and then we heard a loud popped under the (hood area)
turned truck off, look under hood saw nothing
tried to turn truck back on and now have a no crank issue
Lights on dash work and headlights work in cab with key on but when in start position nothing not even a click
#3
#5
#6
Then you are down to Neutral switch, Starter relay, and starter motor itself
If you have an automatic, try starting in Neutral instead of Park this tests the Neutral switch, the DTR sensor on the drivers side of transmission
If you don't have one, get owners manual here: https://www.ranger-forums.com/genera...1-models-3747/
Look for the Starter Relay in engine fuse box, page 205
Relay 56, this relay should "click" when key is turned to START, if possible have a friend turn the key while your finger is on this relay so you can feel if it activates
If no one is around see if the Blower Relay(55) will swap with Starter Relay
Test if it starts and also if Blower/Fan works
And last but not least, the starter motor
The starter has the larger cylinder that is the motor part, and a smaller cylinder that is the relay/solenoid that actives the motor and slides out the gear
It will have a larger Red cable from battery
And a smaller yellow wire on a smaller connection, if this connection has 12volts starter will activate, use a jumper wire from battery positive to this connection to see if starter motor activates
If not then starter is bad, and may have been the POP you heard
If you have an automatic, try starting in Neutral instead of Park this tests the Neutral switch, the DTR sensor on the drivers side of transmission
If you don't have one, get owners manual here: https://www.ranger-forums.com/genera...1-models-3747/
Look for the Starter Relay in engine fuse box, page 205
Relay 56, this relay should "click" when key is turned to START, if possible have a friend turn the key while your finger is on this relay so you can feel if it activates
If no one is around see if the Blower Relay(55) will swap with Starter Relay
Test if it starts and also if Blower/Fan works
And last but not least, the starter motor
The starter has the larger cylinder that is the motor part, and a smaller cylinder that is the relay/solenoid that actives the motor and slides out the gear
It will have a larger Red cable from battery
And a smaller yellow wire on a smaller connection, if this connection has 12volts starter will activate, use a jumper wire from battery positive to this connection to see if starter motor activates
If not then starter is bad, and may have been the POP you heard
#7
Then you are down to Neutral switch, Starter relay, and starter motor itself
If you have an automatic, try starting in Neutral instead of Park this tests the Neutral switch, the DTR sensor on the drivers side of transmission
If you don't have one, get owners manual here: https://www.ranger-forums.com/genera...1-models-3747/
Look for the Starter Relay in engine fuse box, page 205
Relay 56, this relay should "click" when key is turned to START, if possible have a friend turn the key while your finger is on this relay so you can feel if it activates
If no one is around see if the Blower Relay(55) will swap with Starter Relay
Test if it starts and also if Blower/Fan works
And last but not least, the starter motor
The starter has the larger cylinder that is the motor part, and a smaller cylinder that is the relay/solenoid that actives the motor and slides out the gear
It will have a larger Red cable from battery
And a smaller yellow wire on a smaller connection, if this connection has 12volts starter will activate, use a jumper wire from battery positive to this connection to see if starter motor activates
If not then starter is bad, and may have been the POP you heard
If you have an automatic, try starting in Neutral instead of Park this tests the Neutral switch, the DTR sensor on the drivers side of transmission
If you don't have one, get owners manual here: https://www.ranger-forums.com/genera...1-models-3747/
Look for the Starter Relay in engine fuse box, page 205
Relay 56, this relay should "click" when key is turned to START, if possible have a friend turn the key while your finger is on this relay so you can feel if it activates
If no one is around see if the Blower Relay(55) will swap with Starter Relay
Test if it starts and also if Blower/Fan works
And last but not least, the starter motor
The starter has the larger cylinder that is the motor part, and a smaller cylinder that is the relay/solenoid that actives the motor and slides out the gear
It will have a larger Red cable from battery
And a smaller yellow wire on a smaller connection, if this connection has 12volts starter will activate, use a jumper wire from battery positive to this connection to see if starter motor activates
If not then starter is bad, and may have been the POP you heard
#8
???
Its a moving part, and an electrical part, they break
And just as a heads up because of the new radio, 2002 diagram seen here: https://therangerstation.com/tech_li...dio_Wiring.pdf
Fuse 28 is the MUTE wire, and is powered in START, it mutes the Ford radio audio when starting the engine, this need to be taped off if not being used or could short out starting system
Its a moving part, and an electrical part, they break
And just as a heads up because of the new radio, 2002 diagram seen here: https://therangerstation.com/tech_li...dio_Wiring.pdf
Fuse 28 is the MUTE wire, and is powered in START, it mutes the Ford radio audio when starting the engine, this need to be taped off if not being used or could short out starting system
Last edited by RonD; 02-05-2020 at 11:20 AM.
#9
I finally got around to changing the starter
is there’s a new issue where I when I turn the key to the on position the truck just automatically starts to crank and turns the engine on....
is there’s a new issue where I when I turn the key to the on position the truck just automatically starts to crank and turns the engine on....
???
Its a moving part, and an electrical part, they break
And just as a heads up because of the new radio, 2002 diagram seen here: https://therangerstation.com/tech_li...dio_Wiring.pdf
Fuse 28 is the MUTE wire, and is powered in START, it mutes the Ford radio audio when starting the engine, this need to be taped off if not being used or could short out starting system
Its a moving part, and an electrical part, they break
And just as a heads up because of the new radio, 2002 diagram seen here: https://therangerstation.com/tech_li...dio_Wiring.pdf
Fuse 28 is the MUTE wire, and is powered in START, it mutes the Ford radio audio when starting the engine, this need to be taped off if not being used or could short out starting system
#10
Pull the Starter Relay in the engine fuse box out
Then turn on the key and see if starter motor starts up, it shouldn't
Then check if Key turns normally to START and "springs back" when you release it
If turning the key "feels" different then it could be your ignition switch, under the steering column, has been damaged
Then turn on the key and see if starter motor starts up, it shouldn't
Then check if Key turns normally to START and "springs back" when you release it
If turning the key "feels" different then it could be your ignition switch, under the steering column, has been damaged
#11
Pull the Starter Relay in the engine fuse box out
Then turn on the key and see if starter motor starts up, it shouldn't
Then check if Key turns normally to START and "springs back" when you release it
If turning the key "feels" different then it could be your ignition switch, under the steering column, has been damaged
Then turn on the key and see if starter motor starts up, it shouldn't
Then check if Key turns normally to START and "springs back" when you release it
If turning the key "feels" different then it could be your ignition switch, under the steering column, has been damaged
bought a new ignition switch and replaced old one
still the same thing is happening
#12
#13
automatic transmission
#14
So the starter motor does NOT activate with Starter relay pulled out, correct?
This means the short is between relay and ignition switch
Put starter relay back in and pull out fuse 24 in cab fuse box, this fuse passes 12v to starter relay but only when key is in START
See if starter motor activates with key on
If it does then short is on the wires from fuse 24 to the DTR(digital transmission range) sensor, its on the drivers side of transmission , on the shifter
Unplug its connector, have a good look at its wires
Put fuse 24 back in
With DTR sensor unplugged turn key on to see if starter activates
If not then replace DTR
If so then you will need to dig into the wiring harness for the DTR, there is a Tan/red stripe wire that runs to the Starter Relay, that wire is shorted to a key on 12v wire, possibly the Reverse light wire, it has 12v key on and is part of the DTR wiring
This means the short is between relay and ignition switch
Put starter relay back in and pull out fuse 24 in cab fuse box, this fuse passes 12v to starter relay but only when key is in START
See if starter motor activates with key on
If it does then short is on the wires from fuse 24 to the DTR(digital transmission range) sensor, its on the drivers side of transmission , on the shifter
Unplug its connector, have a good look at its wires
Put fuse 24 back in
With DTR sensor unplugged turn key on to see if starter activates
If not then replace DTR
If so then you will need to dig into the wiring harness for the DTR, there is a Tan/red stripe wire that runs to the Starter Relay, that wire is shorted to a key on 12v wire, possibly the Reverse light wire, it has 12v key on and is part of the DTR wiring
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