Heater Resistor Pack
#1
Heater Resistor Pack
I have been missing the extra speeds on the heater for awhile now and finally decided to do something about it.
Bought a new Resistor Pack from Ford, got out all of the tools, mechanical and electrical and got to work replacing the resistor pack.
I marked the wires, cut off the harness connector, added wire lugs soldered them too and soldered the lugs to the resistor pack.
Added heat shrink with adhesive and got it done.
Tested the unit before install and had some sketchy speeds but there was more than two so I was ahead of the game.
Installed the pack and now I have one speed, high, I am now worse off than when I started.
Are these resistor packs susceptible to high heat ?
I would think not considering the make up.
But the fact still remains one speed heat/defrost $ucks.
Any ideas where I F'd up on this ?
I did notice while testing before final install, the internal switch changed speeds while in low and I moved it a little.
I have an extra I will need to replace that and see what happens.
Bought a new Resistor Pack from Ford, got out all of the tools, mechanical and electrical and got to work replacing the resistor pack.
I marked the wires, cut off the harness connector, added wire lugs soldered them too and soldered the lugs to the resistor pack.
Added heat shrink with adhesive and got it done.
Tested the unit before install and had some sketchy speeds but there was more than two so I was ahead of the game.
Installed the pack and now I have one speed, high, I am now worse off than when I started.
Are these resistor packs susceptible to high heat ?
I would think not considering the make up.
But the fact still remains one speed heat/defrost $ucks.
Any ideas where I F'd up on this ?
I did notice while testing before final install, the internal switch changed speeds while in low and I moved it a little.
I have an extra I will need to replace that and see what happens.
#3
There has been talk and I think a how-to on the overall issue, losing fans speeds, go from 4 to 2 to 1.
The fix as states was to remove the connector and use wire lugs, add adhesive type heat shrink to seal it all up.
In my infinite wisdom I chose to solder everything together to reduce corrosion even further.
#6
I doubt that you overheated anything by soldering. Unless you used a blowtorch or a 300 watt solder gun like I use. A bad switch could cause issues. A motor that is going bad and drawing too much current will overheat things. Starting with slide on connectors. Is it possible tht the resistor connector is getting wet? On my EATC install I found out that in 98 or so, Ford went to a waterproof connector on the speed controller. The speed controller replaces the resistor and goes in the same location. If water was an issue with the EATC then I am sure it would be an issue with the standard resistor.
Also, check for any kind of blockage on the inlets of the heater blower. Leaves or mouse nest inside the heater box? The resistor is located where it is so that the cold air is blown across it to cool it off.
Also, check for any kind of blockage on the inlets of the heater blower. Leaves or mouse nest inside the heater box? The resistor is located where it is so that the cold air is blown across it to cool it off.
#7
Replaced the Resistor Pak AGAIN !
This time I have all of the speeds.
Nice to have the heater on and not on the HIGH Speed Fan setting.
I can actually hear myself think.
Now I have an air direction problem, seems to be always on defrost.
I have heard this is the default setting when and if the Vacuum blows out.
Another repair story coming up.
This time I have all of the speeds.
Nice to have the heater on and not on the HIGH Speed Fan setting.
I can actually hear myself think.
Now I have an air direction problem, seems to be always on defrost.
I have heard this is the default setting when and if the Vacuum blows out.
Another repair story coming up.
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