My 98 Ranger is sitting on empty right now. According to the gauge anyway. I've driven 233 miles on this take, 160 of that was on the highway. I know I'm not out of gas. The needle is on empty or damn close to it, but the check gauge light is not on yet. The light and the gauge work separately of each other correct? I'm thinking that maybe I have a problem with my instrument panel rather than the tank sender. My truck only has 60k so this is a little frustrating. I never know how much gas I have. When I fill up from only driving in town I average between 14-15mpg so I know that I shouldn't be out of gas yet. Thanks for any insight.

 

When you turn the key on, does the "check gage" light come on? also, does the gas gauge needle slowly go down over the period of the tank of gas? (meaning its not iratic or anything.) The light should come on as soon as the needle starts getting into the red area......usually there is about a gallon or so left then.

 

Yeah, the light does work. It comes on when the key is on. I think it may be the sender after all. I did some further testing. When the needle is on full the sender should have 145 ohms of resistance, on empty it should have 22 ohms of resistance. I tested mine and it read 28.5 ohms. And the needle is just above the empty mark. So I think my sender may be bad. There's no way I'm out of gas after only 235 miles.

 

There is only one "sensor" in the tank. And that's a physical float.

If you had a tool like autotap.com then you can look at the sensor itself and see what it's saying. (by passing the dash guages)

Otherwise.. just fill it up and see what happens.

Don't forget that maybe something is out of spec and your using more gas than normal? Or maybe someone stole some fuel?

Rich

 

Pull the bed, open the top of the tank ring, pull out the fuel pump assembly and replace the float (It's brass and probably has a hole in it so it filled with gas and doesn't float any more). Check your sender again while you have it out for those same ohm readings.

Ford has floats, they're cheap and easy to replace.

Hardest part is pulling the bed for access. You'll need a T55 for the bed bolts, PB Blaster on the threads underneath a couple days prior and during, a breaker bar to turn the bolts (you'll need it), remove the 3 screws/bolts for the filler neck attachment, and don't forget to disconnect the tail light wiring.

2 guys can lift the bed off.

 

Lifted the bed. The front of it. Was afraid if breaking two of the breakable clips. Didn't have a clean way in but could have gotten the pump out. Did find the orange/black ground. Can get to it now. May try grounding it. Doubt it will be that. Probably a float issue or sender though.