I ordered some LEDs from Buggman and they are arriving today so I finally decided to install my new EP-27 flasher. After finding my flasher and removing it I plugged in the new flasher and right away it started clicking and my Ranger was off. I turned on my Ranger and all the signals worked but after I turned the lights off the clicking didn't go away.

I went to Advanced Auto Parts where I got it and got new one, I plugged it in right there at the store and at first it didn't click but then after turning on my Hazards I saw all lights were working and I turned off my Ranger still no clicking. I went back in the store to tell them it worked, after returning to my truck and turning it on the clicking on when I turned on my truck and didn't go away when I turned it off.

They guy told me I need to get a higher flasher but they don't carry them and he didn't know the name of the flasher. Do you guys have any ideas?

Original Flasher Left & EP-27 Flasher Right.

 

That's really odd. I've never heard of a flasher flashing when the truck is turned off.

I'm guessing the flasher itself is bad, since you don't even have any led's connected yet.

The only other thing I can think of is the hazard switch is worn out causing the flasher to act that way... but I'd think it would do the same thing with the stock flasher.

It looks like your stock flasher has that one little odd mini pin too, not sure if that has anything to do with the phantom clicking

Hopefully Bob (rwenzing) will see this & offer his advice too.

 

I hope we can figure this out, I have been search for a while but I have found nothing about this issue. I went to a company here that sells HIDs and LEDs but they had never heard of this issue either. I don't want to put in the LEDs until I have the Flasher figured out. But I will be installing the Dome Light and Third Brake Light right away. :)

 

Well, weird enough but I have seemed to have fixed it! Once I saw the LEDs that Buggman sent me I couldn't just let them sit there, so I installed them and decided to just try the EP-27 again and no clicking now unless my hazards or turn signals are on!

 

buggman led's:
Fixes random issues, cures cancer, stops leaky gutters, re-grows hair, fertilizes plants, taste great & are less filling HA!

 

It isnt the LED's, its the flasher. You need one stronger than store bought one AND made for LED's. This is a link I got mine from, I got the same flasher, seller is fast shipping so if you order it, you should be good to go.

LED - bulb turn signal hazard 5P EP27 flasher relay | eBay

 

The flasher I have is the 5-pin EP-27, for both blubs and LEDs. The clicking has gone away and everything flashes and clicks when it should (when turn signal or Hazards are on). It didn't work with my old bulbs but after installing the new LEDs everything works. Weird.

 

Ah...ok. Atleast its fixed. I know some flashers are better than others so I thought that was it. I'm glad its all working for you though!

 

I installed my EP27 and it worked fine for a few days - now it clicks with the key turned off and the signals also work with the key off, instead of just the hazards. it is a defective flasher because out of the truck if i just connect the + and - connectors to the battery it clicks. I suspected a solder bridge between terminals but did not find any when I opened it up. I am now waiting for my replacement - slow boat from China I guess!!!

Anyway - that is the simple way to determine if it is the flasher or something wrong in the vehicle!!!

 

2005 2DR RWD 2.3L I4.
Installed LEDS and hyper flash on OEM relay..
E27L replacement relay clicking with truck off.
Can you direct me to a solution?

 

All I can tell you is what I did - and it worked for me. I got 2 adjustable LED motorcycle flashers and wired them in place of the 27 - and I put backfeed diodes inline with all the led lights because they are not "dual filament" devices.
They make high and low brightness by feeding the LED through 2 different resistors - which are in parallel with each other and in series with the LED. When the power is applied through the high ohm resistor the lamp is in "tail-light mode" and when power is applied to the low resistance terminal it is in "stop / turn mode". Power fed through the one resistor backfeeds through the other one - so when the tail lights are on it backteeds to the stop / signal circuit, and when the power is applied to the stop/signal circuit it backfeeds to the tail circuit - which makes all kinds of strange things happen - and blows the integrated flasher - - - I used a whole bag of 1N4001 diodes on my '96 - installed to allow current into the LED lamps, but not back out.. Now everything works except my high beam indicator (yes, I put in LED headlights too - - -

 

By the way, the reason the flasher clicks without anything turned on is because the backfeed blew the flasher, and power from the caution flasher circuit is now powering the switching circuit of the electronic flasher - pull the 4 way flasher fuse and it will stop clicking but you haven't solved the problem yet. You NEED to install the diodes - lots of diodes - using a soldering iron and LOTS of heat shrink tubing. After all the diodes are in and all the backfeeds fixed you COULD install a new E27 flasher but using 2 separate flashers prevents any possibility of backfeeding the flasher and blowing it up causing the 2 circuits to join.

 

Thank you for your reply Cayman. I think the added circuitry you suggest is beyond our meager abilities. It appears the EP27 is the relay to use but some of the posts above suggest it can be hit or miss. While we would prefer a relay solution it may come down to using the resistor alternative with the OEM relay.

 

I burned out 2 EP27 flashers before switching to the 2 flasher setup. And resistors will solve the hyperflash, but depending what LEDs you use it won't stop the cross-feed / back-feed that makes the signals and brake lights come on with the tail lights and the park lights flash with the signals and all that crap. check your 1157 replacement bulbs with an ohm-meter between the 2 terminals - not terminal to shell. If you have conductivity you WILL get the crossfeed/ backfeed problem. and the ONLY solution to that is DIODES