General Technical & Electrical General technical and electrical discussion for the Ford Ranger that does not fit in any other sub-forum.

Engine doesn't turn over on a warm start

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  #1  
Old 06-13-2008
Rangecat's Avatar
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From: Long Beach, CA
Engine doesn't turn over on a warm start

Cold starts are fine. The engine idles at about 1200 rpm.

If I drive the car around for half an hour, stop it for a half hour, then try to start it again, the engine doesn't start unless I keep constant pressure on the gas pedal.

I can drive it like this, but I have to brake with my left foot while easing up on the gas when coming to a stop, all the while keeping the revs above 1000 rpm.

It's tolerable now, but I will be towing another vehicle soon, and this is something I cannot live with.

Where should I begin looking?

Ford Ranger XLT - 4.0L V6 - 5-speed automatic transmission - 2WD
 
  #2  
Old 06-13-2008
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From: Illinois
Sounds like you timing might be off a little.
 
  #3  
Old 06-13-2008
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From: Northern IL
My explorer does the same thing. Unplugged and capped the vacuum line on the egr and it stopped.
 
  #4  
Old 06-14-2008
Rangecat's Avatar
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Heh, if I do that, I better do it after my smog check >.>

Did you eventually replace the EGR valve?
 
  #5  
Old 06-14-2008
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From: Northern IL
I haven't replaced the egr, yet.


If you cant start the truck your not gonna pass emissions.

Its just an easy thing to check. Plug the egr vacuum line and drive the truck. Once it gets nice and hot see if it restarts.

If it does its the egr.
 
  #6  
Old 06-15-2008
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Since it does run smooth at certian times, it's just about gotta be the EGR. On cold starts the PCM is putting in extra fuel. On warm starts its not.

Rich
 
  #7  
Old 06-16-2008
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From: Connecticut
Engine doesn't turn over on a warm start

...but I have to brake with my left foot while easing up on the gas when coming to a stop, all the while keeping the revs above 1000 rpm.
This sounds like a seperate symptom then what the title of the thread says. If you are experiencing both hard starting and idle problems, then you have to consider a faulty IAC valve.

Also, a few years ago my 4.0L had very similar symptoms, it would not always start when warm and a poor idle, and the problem turned out to be a faulty ECT sensor. It took about a week or so before it threw a code.
 
  #8  
Old 06-23-2008
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I finally got my truck to throw a code: P1507. I replaced the IAC valve, and things seem to be working normally. I'll have to drive it around some more to be sure, but I think I'm good to go.
 
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