So I just recently purchased a 2005 Ranger XLT 4.0L it ran fire for a few days, ( I have to get my mechanic to fix the wobble going over 65 but I knew about that) but the last two days I have gone to turn it on in the morning (not registered so not driving at the moment just trying to keep circulating it) and all I get is a bunch of clicking. I did some looking into and some said that it is the ignition switch or the starting solenoid. I took it as fact figured I would have to replace the part and didn't worry about it. Out of curiosity though I jump started the truck, let it run for about 10-15 minutes, then left for about 5 hours. when I returned I attempted to start it again and it cranked up just fine. just went back out again now (about 4-5 hours later then the second time) and again started up no problem.
Before I go ordering parts (granted cheap ones) should I simply buy a new battery and throw it in there and see if it works? Could this just be a case of a dead battery? Everything in the car turns on no problem it just doesn't turn over and instead makes a clicking sound.

 

Welcome to the forum

Use a volt meter and test the battery, AFTER it sits for at least 4 hours, longer is better
12.8 volts is a new battery
12.5 volts is a 3 year old battery
12.3 volts is a 5 to 6 year old battery <<< shop for battery sale, you have about 6 months left

12.2 volts or lower is a failed battery

Start engine, any way you can, lol

Test battery voltage again
14.4-14.9 volts is a good charging system

All this assumes you have cleaned cables terminals

 

That's excellent to know. I will definitely look into that tomorrow morning, the terminals do not have any corrosion on them, the cables I have not checked yet but I would be somewhat surprised if they had corrosion with the lack of corrosion on the terminals.

 

Well RonD your information came in very handy, I went out after letting the truck sit all night, only had 9.8V, checked the cells and refilled them, jump started it and got a steady 14.3 so I turned it off to see if it would hold the charge, started at a solid 12.8 but over the course of a few minutes it dropped back down to a 12.2-12.3. Seems like the battery is definitely at fault here and I will be looking to buy a new one.
Thank you for all your help!

 

Good work

Yes, battery has a shorted cell so is self draining over time, that's usually how battery's fail at end of life, but it can be caused by failed voltage regulator overcharging the battery, causes a cell to short out


After you get the new battery installed, drive vehicle for at least 10 minutes, then leave it running and test battery voltage, should be under 14volts, 13.5-13.8v
REV engine and watch voltage, should increase only slightly with the higher RPM staying under 14volts
Then at idle turn on all electrics, headlights, heater fan to HIGH, radio, door open, ect...........voltage should drop maybe a little but stay above 13.5v.
All is well if above happens


The Battery in a vehicle is just there for starting the engine, alternator provides all the voltage used after that, alternator provides minimum 13.5v and battery is only 12.8v at most so.................electricity flows TO the battery if everything is working correctly after engine starts
Battery Light on the dash means electricity is flowing FROM the battery, which is why it comes on with the key on, because until engine is started electricity is flowing OUT of the battery with key on

Voltage regulators work by "push back", electromotive force
When you use the starter motor that sucks 70+ amps from the battery, so just after start up the battery is drained
Voltage regulator "pushes" 14+ volts out into the vehicles electric system and battery pulls that in until it is "recharged" and then starts to "push back"
When battery is recharged the push back causes the voltage regulator to reduce the volts it is sending out so system voltage drops down under 14volts, prevents battery from "cooking" away fluids

Once battery is recharged voltage regulator sets a steady voltage for the "push back" in the vehicle's electric system, if RPMs go up an alternator will produce higher voltage but that would be bad, so voltage regulator reduces AMP output keeping voltage stable
As you turn on electrical devices the "push back" drops so voltage regulator increases AMPS until "push back" evens out

If you test battery voltage on a running engine and voltage goes up and down with RPMs that means voltage regulator has failed, it is not responding to "push back" and since you usually drive at higher RPMs it will "cook" the battery over time