It occurs to me it would be easier, and had I known before hand I would have done it this way, to use all 1/4" NPT for everything but the new sender.

I thought the existing switch was 1/8" NPT and rounded up everything accordingly.

Instead, you could use the following:

1 each 1/4" NPT "close nipple" (very short piece pipe threaded 1/4" NPT on both ends)

1 each 1/4" NPT "T" fitting (all three ports 1/4" NPT females)

1 each 1/8" to 1/4" NPT adaptor.

Then screw the close nipple into the block, the 'T" onto the close nipple, and thread the switch onto the "T". Arrange the "T" like the one I've shown.

Last, screw the sender into the 1/8" to 1/4" adaptor, and then thread the sender/adaptor combo onto the top of the "T".

All in all, fewer parts, cheaper and even easier. I think I may change it to that, photograph it, and put it in the how-to that way instead of this over-built kluge!

Instead, I have one 1/8" close nipple, one 1/8" long nipple, one 1/8" "T", one 1/8" to 1/4" adaptor, and one 1/4" to 1/8" adaptor -- to much, lol!

Doing it the other way drops you from 5 pieces to only 3. I like that better.

 

Is there a way (changing the sensor) to make the Ranger oil gauge really functional? Or it will only receive the on/off signal?

 

One of our members (rwenzing -- name Bob) has investigated this and says recent Rangers have a "special" gauge that is not a gauge.

On older Rangers, there was a resistor you could remove and make the gauge functional. Sadly, that does not appear to be an option.

However, I think Bob did something to make it work. I can't remember. It's probably posted on here somewhere.

Edit: Can't find anything. Maybe Bob will chime in.

 

I have an electrical water temp gauge and I intend to add a trans temp gauge. What I want to do is just add a sender in the trans and wire that and the water temp sender to a DP/ST switch then to the gauge. That way I don't clutter the interior with an extra gauge. It should work in theory. Anybody done this? Anybody know where I can get an extra Sun-Pro Sender?

 

You need just a single pole, double throw switch (SPDT). One line is always ground and does not need to be switched.

Should work as long as both senders are electrically the same.

 

Thanks, I meant SP/DT. Sorry, not thinking real clear at the moment. I just found out a few hours ago that my Brother has prostrate cancer. I was just surfin try to keep my mind occupied. Thanks again.

 

Using the factory on/off pressure switch, the 2003-back oil pressure "gauge" (analog idiot light) is wound so it reads about 40% of full scale when grounded. If you try to use a variable resistance sending unit with this gauge, it can only read a fraction of that, restricting the needle movement to the very bottom of the scale.

So, I swapped in a 95 Ranger gauge segment, the only year that fits the 95~2003 cluster AND is a real gauge. But there is another problem. The original Ford sending unit from 1995 is very large and won't fit the 4.0L SOHC without remote mounting it. After a lot of searching, a G-E member found a Chrysler sending unit that will fit into the confined area near the 4.0L SOHC block BUT the pressure/resistance curve of that SU is way off for for the 95 Ranger gauge.

Here is the slender Chrysler sending unit and connector that will (barely) fit into the restricted area of the 4.0 SOHC block:





To make the 95 gauge work with the sending unit that would fit, I had to change the calibration resistor. This allows the gauge to register about 25~60% of full scale under normal oil pressure.




I made up this test rig to choose the calibration resistor value. There is the gauge, sending unit, 12V battery pack, variable resistance and a 0~100 PSI pressure regulator (not shown).









After this, it was just a matter of adjusting the needle to a reasonable position that would still allow it to return to zero when off.

As a bonus, the Chrysler sending unit assembly contains both an on/off pressure switch AND a variable resistance sending unit. To take advantage of this, I wired up a latching circuit using the on/off switch, a relay and a small Sonalert annunciator. It arms as soon as the start position of the ignition switch is selected. There is an immediate beeping alarm if the oil pressure goes away after that as long as the ignition switch remains on.

It has been correctly pointed out that it is more straightforward and probably easier to install a calibrated aftermarket gauge instead. I just did it on mine to see if it could be done.

 

I had to T into the trans cooler line on mine. The Sun-Pro sender that I'm using is too long and bottomed out in the trans test port.

 

Since I still have this sitting in my closet b/c the tranny guy never did it - oh and he didnt use the existing plug on the tranny, he drilled into the pan i think and brazened the tranny temp sender there. How's the saying go, "If you want something done right, do it yourself" which is why I havent paid anyone to do the lift yet. As much as I want it done, I dont want some shop to screw it up, like the cutting of the lower arm, which they probably wouldnt do. Besides I would like to do it myself, just not much time, and no place to do it - yeah and the $500 in labor might have something to do with it as well

Ok, here's a parts list for the oil pressure sender. The **xx** is a step in the install, not a part.

**1/4"M nipple into block**

1/4" (M)ale to 1/4"M nipple

**Nipple in bottom of T**

1/4" F "T" fitting

**1/8F to 1/4"M Adapter into T**

1/8"F to 1/4"M adapter (should be incl)

**New sender 1/8"M into adapter**

**Original sender 1/4" M in side of T**

May actually only need 2 pieces other than what is already included in the Autometer kit. And Teflon tape each male thread

I think it said in the directions that came with the sender, but gauge wiring did you use?

By the way the Autometer gage I have is part ATM-5727 on summitracing.com. $52.88


The tranny temp gage I had gotten is part ATM-5757 on summitracing.com $46.88


And the dual gage pod is part ATM-15308 $27.95

All three plus summits handling totaled $136.66

 

One other thought...what material NPT fittings? stainless? brass? galvanized steel?
if they have them at home depot i guess i'll get stainless else galvanized would probably be the next best since it's pressurized oil.

 

Rehashing this thread. The hole in the tranny that you stuck the temp sender unit. Does the sender unit thread into this hole or is it a plug? If it is a plug does it need tapped to accept the sender?

 

It's threaded.

 

geeze i know this is bringing back an old post, but John, will that spot for the tranny temp gauge also be on the 5r55e for the 4.0's............

 

Yes, because they're actually the same tranny physically, with just some slightly different adjustments and adaptors.

 

sweet....that is on the weekend's mod list....moving it from the crappy location by the radiator to the tranny itself.........do you think it should read the temp from there or one of the lines?

 

I think in the tranny is most accurate -- and it'll look hotter but that's okay -- you get to see how your tranny really "sees" it.

 

It's SOOO easy. It took 30 seconds for me to put in the temp gauge...seriously!!!

 

sweet! all i will have to do is re-route the wire to there.....since it comes out by the steering column now, it won't be very hard.....hardest part will be pulling it out of the wire loom it is in.....lol....

so i will not need any adapter or anything to put it there?

 

IIRC it's an 1/8" NPT and so is the bolt that used to go there

 

cool!

 

not to rehash a rehashed thread but i figured this was the best spot to put this

theres one thing im confused about, ive never worked with gauges before so this is a first, what will the gauge come with, just a wire or with that plug sensor as well

what im assuming is the gauge will have a plug, i just need to screw it into there, or adapt it if it is the wrong size then run it to the gauge

any thoughts??

 

Most come with sensors as far as I know. It probably won't have enough wire to reach the tranny, but it might -- just depends on what the manufacturer includes.

I bought my gauges used on eBay (well, he said they were new, but they weren't packaged in original packaging -- looked new anyway, lol) and they didn't include any wire -- only the sensor and gauge and a small harness that comes out of the gauge.

If the sensor is the wrong size, the adapter will cause a slight error in temperature as it will act like a heat sink and it spaces the sensor out from the tranny. I still think that's acceptable, however.

 

was that a 1/8 NPT then, ill just try to get the correct size to start then

and will any wire work or is that special as well?

 

Nope. I'd use 22 gauge to 16 gauge. I see no good reason for anything smaller or bigger. Probably the heavier gauges are better because under the truck they are less likely to break if snagged by brush or whatever.

And yes it's 1/8" NPT (National Pipe Thread)

 

alright man thanx a ton

super helpful

FYI i looked up that site where you got the gauge pod and i didnt see anything, the only one ive found so far is from summit