88 Ranger Dies And Then Starts Again
#1
88 Ranger Dies And Then Starts Again
Starts and runs fine for awhile-all of a sudden it dies (no warning before it dies - no electrical at all when it dies it is as if the battery cable was pulled) wait a couple of minutes and it starts right up and runs fine again. was only happening occasionaly but now happening more often. always able to restart after a couple of minutes 1988 5 speed 2.9L V6. any ideas. Does this model have a computer that I can have fault codes checked? thanks
Last edited by puffy63; 09-20-2008 at 09:42 AM. Reason: need help
#5
#6
I'm having the exact same problem, my truck is a 1988 ford V6 XLT automatic 150,000 mil 4x4 battery was old, but was running fine.. I would be driving along on the free way and it would just be dead, I'd pull over try to start it up and it would crank over but would not start.. after sitting 10-15 it would start right up and run fine for miles.. until the next time it did it..
What I've changed
battery new
Alternator New
Ignition mod New
starter Selnoid new
Positive battery cable new
Ground looks good from what I've seen on visual inspection..
What I'm going to change
ignition Coil
Dist magnetic pick up..
what I noticed last time it died the hazard flasher or turn signals did not work.. but head lights did work interior dome light worked..
Mine has alway stared up after about 10 min sitting
I'm at a loss as well as what to do next..
I'll change those other parts and see what happens..
If I figure it out I'll post it here ..
My mec said it's likely the ignition modulator ,distr pick up or coil..
What I've changed
battery new
Alternator New
Ignition mod New
starter Selnoid new
Positive battery cable new
Ground looks good from what I've seen on visual inspection..
What I'm going to change
ignition Coil
Dist magnetic pick up..
what I noticed last time it died the hazard flasher or turn signals did not work.. but head lights did work interior dome light worked..
Mine has alway stared up after about 10 min sitting
I'm at a loss as well as what to do next..
I'll change those other parts and see what happens..
If I figure it out I'll post it here ..
My mec said it's likely the ignition modulator ,distr pick up or coil..
Last edited by bolt2bounce; 04-03-2015 at 08:46 PM.
#7
although your ground cable may still look good
chances are that they are corroded underneath the insulation
with a vehicle that old i would start with replacing all of the positive and negative cables including the alternator to battery positive cable , as well as the engine to firewall ground strap
but the 2 main ground straps to replace are the engine to firewall and body to frame ground straps
they are ground straps that are exposed aluminum and corrode quickly if not sprayed with some type of spray grease to protect it from the elements
also run a new 4 gauge power feed cable from the alternator to the back of the engine , back along the firewall , then along the inner fenderwell to the battery
routing the cable that way will no longer expose it to the high engine heat , the original factory cable was exposed to
( word of advise , buy a length of synthetic rubber hose with the proper inner diameter , and place the new cable inside the rubber hose for extra anti-short circuit protection )
chances are that they are corroded underneath the insulation
with a vehicle that old i would start with replacing all of the positive and negative cables including the alternator to battery positive cable , as well as the engine to firewall ground strap
but the 2 main ground straps to replace are the engine to firewall and body to frame ground straps
they are ground straps that are exposed aluminum and corrode quickly if not sprayed with some type of spray grease to protect it from the elements
also run a new 4 gauge power feed cable from the alternator to the back of the engine , back along the firewall , then along the inner fenderwell to the battery
routing the cable that way will no longer expose it to the high engine heat , the original factory cable was exposed to
( word of advise , buy a length of synthetic rubber hose with the proper inner diameter , and place the new cable inside the rubber hose for extra anti-short circuit protection )
Last edited by cheese_man; 04-04-2015 at 05:25 AM.
#8
that is good advise.. I'll look into the ground issue.. I know the positive line was corroded some under the rubber I replaced that with a new cable,, but I didn't see any corrosion on the negative cable.. at all the ground strap from the fire wall to the engine block has some grease/ grime on it but looks intact maybe need replacement anyway .
#9
#11
engine dies restarts 1988 2.9 v6
Hi everyone; I am new to the Forum; 1988 2.9V ranger Their is a black wire on the neg. lead, with some type of connector on NEG. battery cable (looks like a fuse holder ??; it has a square on end of wire if unplugged engine will die ; had corrosion ; does anyone know what this connecter is for?
been sitting for many months; would start & run; now only starts when primed; no noise from High pressure fuel pump I thought was low of fuel(also fuel gauge not working) changed in tank fuel pump years ago; put in & it ran out top; so FULL tank; will I have to drain tank or just plug line with rubber plug or wrap something around it so fuel won't run out; seems like I used to hear humming noise on front fuel pump a few seconds, but now no noise; relay clicks tho; any help or advice is appreciated; Thanks , steve
been sitting for many months; would start & run; now only starts when primed; no noise from High pressure fuel pump I thought was low of fuel(also fuel gauge not working) changed in tank fuel pump years ago; put in & it ran out top; so FULL tank; will I have to drain tank or just plug line with rubber plug or wrap something around it so fuel won't run out; seems like I used to hear humming noise on front fuel pump a few seconds, but now no noise; relay clicks tho; any help or advice is appreciated; Thanks , steve
#12
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