2011 Ford Ranger Transmission problem
#1
01-26-2019
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From: Barberton,OHIO
2011 Ford Ranger Transmission problem
I have a 2011 ford ranger 2.3L automatic Transmission 2wd.
I was driving home one night and stopped at a traffic light. The light turns green and I give it gas the rpms shoot up but little to no movement. I pull to the side of the road tried shutting off and everything I put it in first I had first and second that way but no drive. I get home and found to not have reverse either.
I’m thinking that there’s something wrong with third gear because if I start going in first or second then put to drive it’ll go but when it gets ready to shift to third it just doesn’t. And I start to lose rpm.
I was wondering if anyone had an idea as to what the problem could be.
P.s. I have transmission fluid but it is dirty.
I was driving home one night and stopped at a traffic light. The light turns green and I give it gas the rpms shoot up but little to no movement. I pull to the side of the road tried shutting off and everything I put it in first I had first and second that way but no drive. I get home and found to not have reverse either.
I’m thinking that there’s something wrong with third gear because if I start going in first or second then put to drive it’ll go but when it gets ready to shift to third it just doesn’t. And I start to lose rpm.
I was wondering if anyone had an idea as to what the problem could be.
P.s. I have transmission fluid but it is dirty.
#2
01-27-2019
Welcome to the forum
All automatics run on fluid pressure, not a Ford thing
The rotating part of the transmission has clutches and bands(brakes) that control which part of the transmission is rotating the one Planetary gear set, this gives you the ratio changes, i.e. 1st, 2nd, 3rd, ect.......
The main pump also called the front pump provides that pressure, it is turned by the torque convert directly so pumps fluid at engine RPMs.
That fluid pressure is sent to the Valve Body, this routes the pressure to the various clutches and brakes to select ratios
Routing is done using valves(which is why its called the Valve Body), on later model automatics these valves are controlled by electric solenoids which are controlled by the computer
You need at least 120psi pressure to get forward motion, and 170psi for Reverse, so when there is a pressure problem Reverse is the first to go on automatics.
Leaking or stuck valves causes a loss of pressure at other valves, which causes "slipping" or "flaring"
If pressure is low enough then Forward also start to not work, Manually shifting into 1st by passes some of the valves so enough pressure can be achieved to move forward.
Replacing Valve Body and separator plate can be done in the vehicle, and will get pressure back up but.......................clutches and brakes(bands) do wear out, so it would depend on the miles on the transmission now, if you are at or above 200k then I would have trans rebuilt.
You will have a 5R44E automatic if you want to Google specific issue for it
All automatics run on fluid pressure, not a Ford thing
The rotating part of the transmission has clutches and bands(brakes) that control which part of the transmission is rotating the one Planetary gear set, this gives you the ratio changes, i.e. 1st, 2nd, 3rd, ect.......
The main pump also called the front pump provides that pressure, it is turned by the torque convert directly so pumps fluid at engine RPMs.
That fluid pressure is sent to the Valve Body, this routes the pressure to the various clutches and brakes to select ratios
Routing is done using valves(which is why its called the Valve Body), on later model automatics these valves are controlled by electric solenoids which are controlled by the computer
You need at least 120psi pressure to get forward motion, and 170psi for Reverse, so when there is a pressure problem Reverse is the first to go on automatics.
Leaking or stuck valves causes a loss of pressure at other valves, which causes "slipping" or "flaring"
If pressure is low enough then Forward also start to not work, Manually shifting into 1st by passes some of the valves so enough pressure can be achieved to move forward.
Replacing Valve Body and separator plate can be done in the vehicle, and will get pressure back up but.......................clutches and brakes(bands) do wear out, so it would depend on the miles on the transmission now, if you are at or above 200k then I would have trans rebuilt.
You will have a 5R44E automatic if you want to Google specific issue for it
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