Hi. I have a 2002 ranger, 3.0l. It has a trans problem that I haven't been able to fix yet so I just move it around the yard when its in the way. I went to move it last weekend and it was stone dead. I put the jumper cables on it and it started cranking but wouldn't start.. i got out and rechecked everything, it looked fine so I tried again and it wouldn't even crank. I pushed it out of the way and put the battery charger on it. When I went back to it after the battery was charged I noticed the THEFT light flashing rapidly on the dash. Battery is charged but it doesn't crank. I checked all fuses inside and under the hood and even changed the pcm diode. Still won't crank. I found the starter relay and fed the yellow/blue wire to the starter and it cranks just won't start. So starter is good, battery is good. I had someone turn the ignition switch to crank and on the start relay yellow is hot all the time, tan/red and dk blu/orange wires power when ignition it turned to crank. I read on the site about the power lock/antitheft module behind the glove box. I got another one and tried and still the same thing. Theft light blinking fast and it won't crank.

Any.ideas?

 

Its called PATS(passive anti-theft system)

In 2002 Ranger PATS is inside the engine computer(PCM) no part of it is above or by glove box, that was in 1999/2000 rangers, just FYI

Yes, the flashing THEFT light prevents starter motor activation, the fuel pump and fuel injectors are also OFF, so there is no "bypass" for this

If you leave key on then the Flashing THEFT light will start to flash a 2 digit code after 45-60 seconds, first digit is always 1
PATS error codes
11 Transceiver [transponder coil] not connected, or there is no power to it.
12 Transceiver internal fault.
13 No Key/no PATS key has been used to turn the ignition switch.
14 Incomplete key code received.
15 Invalid key code received.
16 CAN communications error.

See if you can get a code

And just a heads up, after 3 or 4 attempts to start with THEFT light flashing, the PCM will go into "Lock Down" mode
So engine wouldn't crank or start for the next 90-min even if you fixed the problem
And no, disconnecting the battery does effect this 90-min timer

Originally your PATS issue may have been Low battery voltage, this is a KNOWN issue with PATS
Battery voltage must be between 12.8-12.3volts AFTER battery has been sitting for 4 hours or overnight, if you charge up a battery there will be a "false" higher voltage for a few hours, so it doesn't actually have the voltage shown

A new battery is 12.8volts
3 year old battery 12.5volts
5/6 year old battery 12.3v and time to shop for battery sales
12.2v or less is a failed battery

 

Thank u for the info. So the flashes are 1 then a pause....then 5...so thats. 15 correct?

If its 15...and thats incorrect key code, what would cause that and what would be the fix? I only have 1 key.

Out of curiosity....what is the module behind the airbag that says KEYLESS REMOTE/ANTi THEFT on it and what does it do?

 

You will need to have more keys added, if your current key is not recognized, a Mobile locksmith can cut and add keys, need at least 2 working keys
There is a laptop software called Forscan you can use it for free for 30days I think, but its not expensive, it can add keys but you still need them cut to match ignition lock, and you need the cable to hook laptop to OBD2 connection

Try key off of key ring and keep fingers off the handle of key, long shot, but if you can get it running and drive to a locksmith it is usually cheaper than having one come to you


What you describe is the RAP module, the keyless entry system and it could also be used as an Alarm depending on model, i.e. flashing park lights and horn honking alarm system if a door is opened without key or Fob
But that usually behind the driver seat
PATS is "passive" so not an alarm system, just disables fuel system if activated, also starter motor

 

Ok. I'll give it a shot. Thank you again.

So a couple quick questions....( not sure what a mobile locksmith costs)

Can a dealer cut and program a key?

If I get a used pcm, ignition switch with keys and ring around the ignition all from another truck at the junkyard, would it work?

 

Mobile Locksmith will come to where your vehicle is located, just call and ask the price

You would have to have it towed to a Ford dealer, but yes they can cut and add keys same as a locksmith

Yes, you could get PCM and keys at wrecking yard, don't need the "ring" unless your is broken, its not a "matched" part, its just a powered antenna
Problem with used PCM is the internal VIN and Odometer won't match your vehicle, but can be reprogrammed


Mobile locksmith will be the least expensive option, unless you can tow vehicle to a locksmith or Ford dealer

 

So I had the mobile locksmith come out and reprogram the key. The truck started right up!!!!. I let it idle since it hasn't been ran for a while. I shut it off and tried to re start it....and...nothing. doesn't crank at all. Locksmith was gone by this time, so couldn't have him try it again..
The theft light is not blinking like it was. It's stays on solid with key on. When the key is off and out of the ignition, the theft light blinks like it always did.


Help....

 

Disconnect battery for 5 minutes then reconnect and try to start

 

Disconnected for 5-10 min, hooked up and still no crank.

Any ideas?

Bad ecm??

 

Went out this morning to give it a shot again, now theft light is blinking the code...15. Same as before. Is this a key issue?

 

PATS codes
11 Transceiver [transponder coil] not connected, or there is no power to it.
12 Transceiver internal fault.
13 No Key/no PATS key has been used to turn the ignition switch.
14 Incomplete key code received.
15 Invalid key code received.
16 CAN communications error.

So yes, wrong key code, NOT incomplete(14) or no code(13), key code was read OK, but was not in PATS memory

Could be Computer has lost ability to save key codes in memory with key off, never heard of that happening but certainly possible

 

Thank you for reply.
the locksmith came back out and tried to do what he did yesterday and it didn't work. He made another key and tried blanking it, or "no keys avail" option and that didn't work either. One time it did hook up then errored out on his computer. Like the communicatation from the ecm dropped..From what we could tell the memory in the ecu was Wigging out. I guess I'm going to get a used ecu and have him come back out and redo the keys to match that ecm. I'll worry about matching Vin and mileage later...I just need this thing to be able to be moved around the yard at this point. ...
Is there a cheaper option then used ecm? Then programming?


Thanks again.

 

In a 2002 Ranger you just need to match 3.0l engine size, VIN U or V, for gas or flex
Then transmission type, manual or automatic
2wd or 4x4 don't matter

You can get rebuilt or new computers that come with 2 PATS keys already programmed into computer, or at a wrecking yard with 1 key at least
Lock smith can cut new keys from one of your old ones, to save on another site visit

There is no odometer test, that started in 2004 and up Rangers, but at some point you can match the odometer and VIN back up