3 months ago I accelerated rapidly after being at a stoplight. The rpm’s went way up and I realized that the truck was not shifting from first gear. I let off the gas and when I slowed down enough, I felt the truck pull forwards kind of. Everything went back to normal except I noticed after this that it was slower when I first hit the gas from being stopped completely. Yesterday, I accelerated quickly and the rpm’s shot up and the truck didn’t change gears again, only this time when I slowed down, nothing changed. I hit the gas and the rpm’s would just go up with no movement. I put it in 4wd hi to see if that would help, but my 4wd is messed up and at slow speeds, it makes this loud banging noise. You can hear it inside the cab and it is very loud. I ended up putting it in 2 and was able to drive fine and eventually go do D after I pick up some speed, but I have to turn the overdrive off or it will just have the rpm go way up. My reverse doesn’t work either now. I can’t remember what I did to make this happen, but the OD off light was flashing at me two different times since yesterday. When I turn the truck off and back on, it goes away and I can turn the OD off. Went to autozone and they told me that it wouldn’t have a code because the check engine light isn’t on. I went to a different store for parts and then replaced the range sensor/ neutral safety switch today because they told me it might repair the issue and they also told me to pour the lucas transmission stuff in the vehicle. It didn’t fix anything unfortunately. I have never done any maintenance on the transmission before, but I do know it has transmission fluid in it where it has the marks on the stick thing. I read that you are supposed to smell it and see if it smells burned or something.. I don't know what burned vs non burned smells like really.

My truck is a 2001 Ford Ranger Edge 4.0 SOHC 4wd automatic with 215,000 miles on it. It is my first vehicle I ever owned and I want to drive it for the rest of my life. What do you guys think is wrong with the shifting issue? What do you think the 4wd loud noises are?

 

Welcome to the forum

All automatic transmissions run on ATF Fluid Pressure, not a Ford thing

There is a front(main) pump that is powered by the engine(torque converter), the pump spins at engine RPMs

In the rotating upper part of transmission are Clutches and Bands(brakes), and one planetary gear set, so there is no "switching gears", Ratio changes are done by starting and stopping some of the planetary gears, this is done by the different clutches engaging and disengaging and the Brakes(bands) holding the parts that need to not spin.

In the lower part of transmission is the Valve Body, this is where the fluid pressure is routed to the clutches and bands
In the old days the valves were operated by springs, RPM and changing pressures
Since the mid-1980's electric solenoids were used to operate the valves, which allowed for better shifting and lockup, computer controlled
When transmission "shifts gears" valves change and send pressure to clutches and bands for the selected "gear", if the pressure is not high enough then no or slow change and even "slipping" between "gears", because bands can't hold and clutches can't hold

To get a Forward gear to engage you need approx, 125psi pressure, to get Reverse to engage you need about 175psi pressure<<< this is why all automatics often lose Reverse first when there is a problem.

So from your description you have a pressure issue, could be seals and gaskets in Valve body are now leaking so pressure can't build up, could be stuck open valves so pressure can't build up.
But most like the problem is in the Valve Body.

But.............if transmission has 200k+ miles then clutches and bands will be worn, so toss up on full rebuild or just try new Valve Body, you would need to the new valve body either way, and you can change that in the vehicle, so not a big risk.

If you want to know more specifically whats wrong then a transmission shop can run a pressure test, and can sometimes ID specific valve issue, but result would probably be to remove valve body to check valve, so the cost of test may not be worth it since end result would be the same.
But a pressure test may show Pressure is correct, which would mean clutches and bands are worn out, so full rebuild needed, but with no reverse that's not the case, lol.


Just FYI, the High RPM off the line the first time probably blew a seal out, so pressure leak started then, and they don't get better, lol, they get worse over time

 

 

 

A mention from someone who has re-filled the pan after a service...

The system takes about 10qts total.

There's still fluid in the torque converter, cooler, and lines.

You're only filling up the pan at this time. Do 4-5 qts (maybe less...keep checking level) to start with and check the level. You should be around full, but there's the old fluid in the rest of the system.

That's why the fluid is coming out. It's already full.

Stick a small rubber hose down the fill tube and get a turkey baster...suck out some of that fluid until it registers on the dipstick as full.

If you want to get the old fluid out, you'll have to:

Run the engine to circulate the fluid.
Drop the pan again. (installing a drain plug or get a pan that has a drain plug installed already to make it soooo much easier)
Fill to "full" line on the stick again.
Repeat.

2 or 3 cycles will get most of the fluid out.