Hi,
I have a few other postings. My boy and I are redoing a barn find 1994 Ranger from a community college here in Florida.

It's hot as hell today. Humid too.

No Air.

The blower works awesome.

We bought the recharge can and the initial pressure was in the red... 90PSI or so. Logically, I pressed on the valve and reduced the pressure to 45 psi. Then I added the new can of refrigerant.

Not cold.

Notably you do not hear a tick or click and the AC actuating. I'm clinically deaf, but he says there is no sound.

In my F150 I cleaned the AC clutch plates, the rust on them and it worked fine.

Kindly, what should we do? What would you do?

 

1994 AC electric wiring below

1994 Ranger AC "should" use R134a(no CFC), but "could be" R-12(CFC) from factory, you can tell by how many pressure switches it has, R-134a uses TWO pressure switches, R-12 just one

Assuming R-134a, if not then update it

When you activate AC inside the cab, 12volts(fuse 17 in cab) is sent to the Cycling switch, passes thru that one, and goes to High Pressure switch, passes thru that one, and goes to AC Clutch relay, called the WOT Relay in 1994
If WOT relay is OFF, yes off, then 12volts goes to the AC Clutch and compressor is engaged

So with key on/engine off, test your 12volt path thru the switches first

Then pull out the WOT Relay(in engine fuse box) and test its slots
Turn AC switch in cab OFF
Turn on key
Test slots, only 1 should show 12v, from PCM relay, fuse 4 in engine bay, remember that slot
Now turn ON AC in the cab
Should now have another slot with 12volts
Thats the 12v passing thru the pressure switches

A 5 Pin automotive relay is numbered like this: https://www.gtsparkplugs.com/images/...iring-840x.jpg

85 and 86 are used to activate the relay, one needs to be 12v and the other a ground to activate relay, no polarity, in this setup the Computer(PCM) uses the Ground on pin 86 to activate this relay, CUTTING POWER to AC compressor clutch

So if you find the slot with 12v, 30 or 87a, then the other slot will go to AC clutch

Switch meter to OHMs
Unplug AC clutch connector
Test ohms from Black/white stripe wire to "other slot" should be 0 ohms or very low ohms

If so then plug WOT relay back in and switch meter to Volts again
Key on AC on, black/white wire should have 12volts, if not WOT Relay is bad

 

Thank you Ron, we are working on it this evening. We will update. Very helpful, thank you again.

 

Furthermore, when adding refrigerant you always add from the low side of the system. The gauge that comes on those cans is only to be read with the system RUNNING. With the system off the pressures will likely be higher than the gauge can read because they equalize with the compressor off. When the compressor comes on the low side of the system gets pulled down to low pressure. If you have a proper set of air conditioning gauges and the adapters to put onto a car I suggest you use that instead of the crappy autozone cans. When you get the compressor running post up the high and low side pressures while the system is running, and the outdoor temperature and I can make suggestions from there. I work residential AC, not cars, but the principles behind it are identical.