1994 Ranger non start, no crank
#1
1994 Ranger non start, no crank
I have gone through replaced the starter, checked the battery, replaced the ignition switch and the ignition cylander key bit and no start. Accessory lights will turn and enging will crank if a put a screw driver and override the starter relay. Any thing else I should check?
#2
Welcome to the forum
Do you have a manual trans or automatic?
There is a switch on either, that needs to be closed to connect Key/ignition switch to starter relay on the inner fender
On manual the switch is on the clutch pedal
On auto the switch is on drivers side of transmission above the shift linkage
They are called Neutral Safety Switch, NSS, prevents starting while "in gear"
Do you have a manual trans or automatic?
There is a switch on either, that needs to be closed to connect Key/ignition switch to starter relay on the inner fender
On manual the switch is on the clutch pedal
On auto the switch is on drivers side of transmission above the shift linkage
They are called Neutral Safety Switch, NSS, prevents starting while "in gear"
#3
Welcome to the forum
Do you have a manual trans or automatic?
There is a switch on either, that needs to be closed to connect Key/ignition switch to starter relay on the inner fender
On manual the switch is on the clutch pedal
On auto the switch is on drivers side of transmission above the shift linkage
They are called Neutral Safety Switch, NSS, prevents starting while "in gear"
Do you have a manual trans or automatic?
There is a switch on either, that needs to be closed to connect Key/ignition switch to starter relay on the inner fender
On manual the switch is on the clutch pedal
On auto the switch is on drivers side of transmission above the shift linkage
They are called Neutral Safety Switch, NSS, prevents starting while "in gear"
Is this what your talking about?
and I have a manual.
#4
Yes, that's the clutch switch
The red/light blue wire and the Pink wire(bottom 2 wires) need to be connected to pass the Key in START 12volts on to the starter relay in the engine bay
When clutch pedal is pressed down all the way that switch should close the 3 separate connections inside
You can unplug that connector and then jumper those two wire to see if clutch switch is the problem
The red/blue wire is the 12v IN from ignition switch(turned to START)
The Pink is OUT to starter relay, it changes to a red/blue wire at the firewall, so its red/blue at the starter relay, just FYI
The red/light blue wire and the Pink wire(bottom 2 wires) need to be connected to pass the Key in START 12volts on to the starter relay in the engine bay
When clutch pedal is pressed down all the way that switch should close the 3 separate connections inside
You can unplug that connector and then jumper those two wire to see if clutch switch is the problem
The red/blue wire is the 12v IN from ignition switch(turned to START)
The Pink is OUT to starter relay, it changes to a red/blue wire at the firewall, so its red/blue at the starter relay, just FYI
#5
Yes, that's the clutch switch
The red/light blue wire and the Pink wire(bottom 2 wires) need to be connected to pass the Key in START 12volts on to the starter relay in the engine bay
When clutch pedal is pressed down all the way that switch should close the 3 separate connections inside
You can unplug that connector and then jumper those two wire to see if clutch switch is the problem
The red/blue wire is the 12v IN from ignition switch(turned to START)
The Pink is OUT to starter relay, it changes to a red/blue wire at the firewall, so its red/blue at the starter relay, just FYI
The red/light blue wire and the Pink wire(bottom 2 wires) need to be connected to pass the Key in START 12volts on to the starter relay in the engine bay
When clutch pedal is pressed down all the way that switch should close the 3 separate connections inside
You can unplug that connector and then jumper those two wire to see if clutch switch is the problem
The red/blue wire is the 12v IN from ignition switch(turned to START)
The Pink is OUT to starter relay, it changes to a red/blue wire at the firewall, so its red/blue at the starter relay, just FYI
#6
Not if jumping the starter relay worked to crank engine over
Alternator is only used AFTER engine has started up
Battery is only used BEFORE engine has started up
A failing alternator may cause battery to drain while driving, battery is not suppose to be used, and battery may be drained and not have the 70amps needed to run starter motor after engine is shut off
But jumping the relay wouldn't work either with a dead battery
Alternator is only used AFTER engine has started up
Battery is only used BEFORE engine has started up
A failing alternator may cause battery to drain while driving, battery is not suppose to be used, and battery may be drained and not have the 70amps needed to run starter motor after engine is shut off
But jumping the relay wouldn't work either with a dead battery
#7
Not if jumping the starter relay worked to crank engine over
Alternator is only used AFTER engine has started up
Battery is only used BEFORE engine has started up
A failing alternator may cause battery to drain while driving, battery is not suppose to be used, and battery may be drained and not have the 70amps needed to run starter motor after engine is shut off
But jumping the relay wouldn't work either with a dead battery
Alternator is only used AFTER engine has started up
Battery is only used BEFORE engine has started up
A failing alternator may cause battery to drain while driving, battery is not suppose to be used, and battery may be drained and not have the 70amps needed to run starter motor after engine is shut off
But jumping the relay wouldn't work either with a dead battery
#8
Test red/blue wire at starter relay with volt meter or test light to see if it has 12v with key turned to START
If so then replace starter relay, or make sure its grounded well
If no 12v then, test red/blue wire at clutch switch with volt meter or test light, to see if it has 12volts with key turned to START, if not then ignition switch is the problem
If it has 12v then put jumper wire/splice back and retest key in START, if still no activation then you will need to run a new wire from clutch switch to starter relay
The pink wire is spliced at the firewall to the engine bay's red/blue wire and that splice may be bad, you can look for that splice, if you want, but running a new wire may be faster fix
And problem could be at the large round connector in firewall, seen here: https://www.therangerstation.com/for...nector.182179/
Looks like pin 30 is the pink wires pass thru
If so then replace starter relay, or make sure its grounded well
If no 12v then, test red/blue wire at clutch switch with volt meter or test light, to see if it has 12volts with key turned to START, if not then ignition switch is the problem
If it has 12v then put jumper wire/splice back and retest key in START, if still no activation then you will need to run a new wire from clutch switch to starter relay
The pink wire is spliced at the firewall to the engine bay's red/blue wire and that splice may be bad, you can look for that splice, if you want, but running a new wire may be faster fix
And problem could be at the large round connector in firewall, seen here: https://www.therangerstation.com/for...nector.182179/
Looks like pin 30 is the pink wires pass thru
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