1993 2,3l no OBD! signals
#1
1993 2,3l no OBD! signals
I am glad I found this forum I bought a 1993 Ranger xlt Xcab 2x4 6 or 8 weeks back and I have been doing a pretty intensive update and restoration on this truck. So I have had ck engine lights, hard start and back firing low power, I have no signal at the OBD1 i have a new tester, and I have tried the paper clip trick and nothing either way, the truck came with no owner manual and I assume that a fuse for the OBD1 exists somewhere? I have included some history below as well as parts installed and work done. any help is appriciated
When I originally bought the truck it was very hard starting and back firing low power, i kept it running put on some lucas fuel treatment, and cleaned with choke spray an go as possible in a parking lot. I could not get over 35 to 40 mph and slowing over the 120 mile drive home i got it up to freeway speed. The next day still ran crappy and same kind of issues, and that started work the truck was sold to me with supposedly 102k miles. I plan to change the fuel filter tomorrow
Parts-
plugs, wires, coil pacs, water temp sensor, crank sensor and timing belt, maf sensor, idle solenoid, injectors, ox sensor, hoses belts, coolant, water pump, battery, fuel pressure regulator, air filter,
When I originally bought the truck it was very hard starting and back firing low power, i kept it running put on some lucas fuel treatment, and cleaned with choke spray an go as possible in a parking lot. I could not get over 35 to 40 mph and slowing over the 120 mile drive home i got it up to freeway speed. The next day still ran crappy and same kind of issues, and that started work the truck was sold to me with supposedly 102k miles. I plan to change the fuel filter tomorrow
Parts-
plugs, wires, coil pacs, water temp sensor, crank sensor and timing belt, maf sensor, idle solenoid, injectors, ox sensor, hoses belts, coolant, water pump, battery, fuel pressure regulator, air filter,
#2
Welcome to the forum
I would pull out the Computer(PCM)
Remove the covers and look at the circuit board
There are 3 barrel(radial) capacitors, usually blue, that dry out, they can leak or just balloon the tops
These should be replaced regardless with match value Black Capacitors(higher temp)
Also clean up any corrosion seen, on the board or the connecting pins
Picture here of similar EEC-IV computer, blue caps are easy to ID: Ford EEC-IV
Placement changed by year, but always 2 and sometime even 4
I would pull out the Computer(PCM)
Remove the covers and look at the circuit board
There are 3 barrel(radial) capacitors, usually blue, that dry out, they can leak or just balloon the tops
These should be replaced regardless with match value Black Capacitors(higher temp)
Also clean up any corrosion seen, on the board or the connecting pins
Picture here of similar EEC-IV computer, blue caps are easy to ID: Ford EEC-IV
Placement changed by year, but always 2 and sometime even 4
#4
For capacitors you need to match the uF exactly, like 16uF or 30uF
But you can use higher voltage rating without any harm, so you can replace a 16uF/16v with a 16uF/50v or 16uF/100v
As long as its HIGHER voltage it will be fine
Capacitors have a + and - side, take pictures before removing them, there is a stripe on the - side
But you can use higher voltage rating without any harm, so you can replace a 16uF/16v with a 16uF/50v or 16uF/100v
As long as its HIGHER voltage it will be fine
Capacitors have a + and - side, take pictures before removing them, there is a stripe on the - side
The following users liked this post:
oldcardude59 (10-05-2023)
#5
Well I had to order a smaller soldering iron but i got the capacitors swapped out with new, the board did show some damage where on capacitor had leaked. I reinstalled the PCM and no change still no power to the eec test port so the ODB1 port can not communicate with the ODB1 tester. I also tested the EGR solenoid and it had a bad coil, so I replaced it. The truck starts but still has the miss and backfiring after deceleration. I am at a loss not sure what to do next, is it possible to have a pcm tested .
#6
Thanks for the help Ron, I did locate and replace the capacitors with exact replacements, however I did notice where one capacitor leaked that the board maybe damaged. I replace the fuel filter, and egr vacuum solenoid while i was at it the coil tested bad when 12v was applied no accuation. Once I got the truck started it was a bit better but a bit rough and when you hit the throttle and let off you get backfiring. I am wondering is it possible the timing is off from the timing belt change? My EEC for the OBD1 is still dead and i checked it for power with a meter and got nothing? so i can get no codes?
#8
1993 and 1994 OBD1 should flash the CEL(check engine light) when the jumper wire is in place, have you tried that vs an OBD1 reader
Use a paperclip or jumper wire to connect the two slots shown here: https://www.irv2.com/forums/attachme...1&d=1681681373
Turn on the key
1993 will use 3 digit codes, code list here: https://www.therangerstation.com/tec...3-digit-codes/
If you are not getting flashes the computer is bad, assuming CEL bulb works, lol
Use a paperclip or jumper wire to connect the two slots shown here: https://www.irv2.com/forums/attachme...1&d=1681681373
Turn on the key
1993 will use 3 digit codes, code list here: https://www.therangerstation.com/tec...3-digit-codes/
If you are not getting flashes the computer is bad, assuming CEL bulb works, lol
#10
I would say computer is bad
Try https://www.car-part.com/
1993
Ford Ranger
Computer Box Engine
USA
Sort by distance
YOUR Zipcode
search
New window, all 1993 computers for a Ranger will start with F37F, last digits should be on the label of your computer if its an automatic
ECM 2.3l auto or manual
Search
Try https://www.car-part.com/
1993
Ford Ranger
Computer Box Engine
USA
Sort by distance
YOUR Zipcode
search
New window, all 1993 computers for a Ranger will start with F37F, last digits should be on the label of your computer if its an automatic
ECM 2.3l auto or manual
Search
#12
So you would look for an F37F-BC
12A650 is the part number for ALL Ford Computers, still used in 2023, so meaningless as far as matching a part
I don't see that listed, so is it a manual transmission?
The B002 in larger letters is the software loaded when vehicle was made
Found one in Florida(using FL zipcode) with F37F-BC B002 for manual trans so you must have a manual trans
They are running $35-$85
12A650 is the part number for ALL Ford Computers, still used in 2023, so meaningless as far as matching a part
I don't see that listed, so is it a manual transmission?
The B002 in larger letters is the software loaded when vehicle was made
Found one in Florida(using FL zipcode) with F37F-BC B002 for manual trans so you must have a manual trans
They are running $35-$85
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