Hi all,
Glad to find this forum, hope someone can help. My 1994 Ranger runs great until recently with the hot weather, it will not start.
This only happens in the heat of the day, say above 85 F. If I wait until the outside temp drops it will start up fine.
Anyone else have this problem?

 

https://www.ranger-forums.com/forum2...ad.php?t=67400

https://www.ranger-forums.com/forum2...ad.php?t=67979

 

Re: your hot start problem with your Ranger, did you ever figure out what the problem was...(?). I've got the same issue, the truck starts fine. I can run a couple of errands and after it gets real hot (or it's hot / humid weather), once I shut it off, it won't start nomatter what. I have been stranded a couple of times now. Very frustrating. I checked the fuel pressure, it's within specs. I replaced the fuel pump relay, cleaned the idle air solenoid and replaced the coolant temp sensor. I'd be very interested to know if you got your problem fixed and HOW.....(??) Thanks! -

 

Could be the battery? could be fuel pump/filter (pressure build up from heat), could be vacuum leak? who knows, this is interesting. Heat tends to do things to fluids, and gases

 

@flyfisher1757 did you ever get this fixed?? I have the SAME issue!!!

 

Help with no start problem when hot. I am having trouble with my 2004 ranger four liter with starting once it is hot. It occurs in summer when the weather is hot. Seems to occur if I shut it off and then try to start it again within a short time. It turns over but wont start until I let it sit for several hours or start it the next morning. It will runfor a a few seconds when I spray quick start.
I notice that different people have posted the same problem.
Did anyone get the problem resulted
Ardean

 

i still have not found an answer... other than maybe the idle air control sensor.. but I replaced mine and it still doesn’t work.. not unless mine was faulty to begin with..

 

Try this

"Clear flooded engine" mode, all fuel injected engines have this, not a Ford thing
Key on
Press gas pedal down to the floor and HOLD IT DOWN, if engine is off, 0 RPMs, this tells computer to start "Clear flooded engine" mode, fuel injectors are OFF

Crank engine over, this will dry out a flooded engine
When you release gas pedal, even while cranking, computer will restart injectors
So crank it for a few seconds then release gas pedal to see if it starts, if it does it was flooded

I use this every morning when starting my high mile(400k) engine, to get oil circulated BEFORE I let the engine start

What you are testing for is a failing ECT sensor, or leaking injector or Damper
If engine doesn't start, then its a lack of fuel or spark thats the issue

So 50/50 test is needed
Get a can of Quick Start(ether) and a pair of pliers or screw driver
Warm up engine and shut it off
Try to restart to confirm a NO START
Pull off Power brake Boosters Vacuum Hose, pliers or screw driver needed usually
Spray Ether into the Vacuum hose going to the engine/intake, and put hose back on

Try to start engine
If it starts and then dies, lack of fuel is your problem
If it does NOT start or fire then lack of Spark is your issue
50/50, instant results on where to look

 

Thanks for your assistance
I have used quick start spray and engine runs for a seconds and dies; I am thinking it is a lack of gas.. I since then have done a fuel pressure check; with a registration of zero on the gauge when I cycle the key on and off. So I am in the process of replacing the fuel pump. I will let you know if that helps??

 

It will
Change fuel filter after a few days, when you change the pump it will stir up stuff in the tank, so give it a few days to pump it out to the filter then change it

 

Thank you so much!! This truck worked like a charm!! I was stuck at a gas station for an hour and I still had to drive to the store. Once I did the “clear flooded engine” procedure. My B4000 started up like nothing.
i signed up to this forum just so I could show my gratitude for your information. Thanks.

 

Good stuff, thanks

 

During the summer months when temps hit triple-digits, my Ranger will stall. I found that the fuel rail has vapor in it causing the stall. It would seem that the fuel gets super heated and vaporizes inside the rail.

Using a rag to catch fuel (engine off) I tested this theory by opening the (pressure test) valve on the rail. I was expecting fuel to start spraying (as the rail should be pressurized), and nothing but vapor came out, then a few seconds later the fuel, started to bubble out. This continues to be a problem during the summer, otherwise it runs fine the rest of the year.

 

Assuming fuel injection(fuel rail) then Vapor Lock won't be the issue, as that can't happen with 30psi fuel pressure, 1985-1997 Rangers, or 1998 and up which used 60psi fuel pressure
Engine or engine bay can't get that hot unless it was on fire, which you didn't mention

In the old days there was 0psi fuel pressure between gas tank and mechanical fuel pump on the engine, so metal fuel line near exhaust could get vapor lock
Also carb's float bowls could "percolate" if intake got too hot

 

Had same thing when it was heat soaked because ford in their wisdom put the starter under the headers plus 115 plus days here in the desert.

The starter failed picked up a duracrap and swapped out no more issues for now.

Plus lifetime replacement when it happens again


Also check ur relays swap the blower relay with starter and check ur main starter fuses. I had to trouble shoot mine then went with stater as culprit.
​​​​​Al
00 3.0 xlt now she runs like a champ a slow champ but still runs.

 

I I'm having the same issue on my 97 Ranger with a 4.0 I live in Florida where with the heat index it's well over a hundred in the summer and for the last three months have been dealing with fuel vaporizing in the fuel rail I know for sure this is happening cuz as was mentioned above only air comes out of the Schrader valve on the fuel rail not fuel and if I dump water on the fuel rail and fuel pressure regulator the truck will start or if it hasn't stalled yet it will start to run like it should this is this issue only happens on really hot days or when I've been driving for long periods of time or while running the AC because the fuel pressure regulator is located directly behind the AC compressor after doing some research I have found that Ford has a heat shield that can be placed between the fuel rail and the head seeing as that is the cause of the problem the aluminum fuel rail is mounted directly to the Head allowing heat transfer
In response to the quoted text above gasoline turns to Vapor at 140 degrees therefore there is plenty of room for the engine and engine bay to get to a temperature to cause the gasoline to turn to Vapor. Vapor lock by definition only occurs with carbureted engines where the fuel is not under pressure however the fuel can become Vapor within a pressurized fuel injected system

 

I would suspect this only happens with engine off, and its most likely because system is not holding pressure with key off, so as it drops to 0psi the fuel in the rail will "boil" if engine bay is hot enough

Could be check valve in fuel pump or the Fuel Pressure regulator is leaking so pressure is dropping with key/pump off
1997 and earlier should hold pressure above 20psi for MONTHS with key off
1998 and up should hold pressure above 35psi for MONTHS

I have never run into Vapor Lock on a running Fuel injected engine, like a carb engine would do

 

no, the issue happens while engine running and once it stalls the only way to get it to start is to release the vapor from fuel rail or by letting the fuel rail cool off. I've tested the vapor theory by pouring water on the rail/regulator when symptoms start and once it's cooled truck runs fine until it heats up again

 

I would test fuel pressure with engine idling cold, should be 30-35psi

less that that indicates a problem with FPR or fuel pump

 

Fuel pressure is normal when idling and under load. The problem gets worse as the fuel level drops to 1/4 and lower. Even with a new fuel pump.

 

Its a puzzler all right

Lots of Rangers in FLA without this issue so its not a common issue

The 1/4 tank thing would make sense because its a gasoline heat issue
The pump generates 80+ psi, so the FPR is sending alot of, now heated up gasoline, back to the tank, so as the level in the tank gets lower the overall temp of the gasoline in the tank gets higher
This is one of the reasons Ford, and others, switch to the "Returnless" systems, it lowers gasoline temp in the tank so less gasoline vapor for EVAP system to deal with, so better emissions standard

Any changes made to engine bay air flow/cooling, i.e. fan with shroud?
Stock exhaust system, no "headers", no exhaust leaks directed at fuel lines?

When its time you could try changing to 180deg Thermostat that should lower engine bay temp by a few degrees, 190deg is stock T-stat

 

I'm also having the same problem, please share the trick