Who's got a mod no one else has?
#29
10-16-2005
Modified factory oil pressure gauge with variable resistance sending unit and low pressure siren:
Doubled traction bar brackets:
Fire extinguisher and Mag-Lite mounted in jack cover:
Dual rear LII tow hooks:
Bed crane:
Radio bezel with ABS Disable switch and heated mirror switch:
Explorer Limited steering wheel with controls for cruise, EATC temp and fan speed, audio volume, AM/FM/Tape/CD/remote 6-disc mode, station presets and CD track.
Doubled traction bar brackets:
Fire extinguisher and Mag-Lite mounted in jack cover:
Dual rear LII tow hooks:
Bed crane:
Radio bezel with ABS Disable switch and heated mirror switch:
Explorer Limited steering wheel with controls for cruise, EATC temp and fan speed, audio volume, AM/FM/Tape/CD/remote 6-disc mode, station presets and CD track.
#30
10-16-2005
Member
Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 3,453
Likes: 8
From: Long Beach CA
#38
10-16-2005
Member
Joined: May 2004
Posts: 1,965
Likes: 0
From: Hanover, Maryland
I installed the power moonroof on the Level II. Did dual foglight switches [for KC's and stock fogs]. Two different size [larger] wiper blades.
Wasn't the first by any means, but I did have the EATC mod, OHC and Keyless Keypad mod's.
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On the new Splash, I got a new front-end, and painted the doorhandles and tailgate handle. Installing a drop soon, too. Oh, also the same power moonroof.
Wasn't the first by any means, but I did have the EATC mod, OHC and Keyless Keypad mod's.
------------
On the new Splash, I got a new front-end, and painted the doorhandles and tailgate handle. Installing a drop soon, too. Oh, also the same power moonroof.
#44
10-16-2005
RF Veteran
Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 10,623
Likes: 6
From: Kennett Square, PA
Oh, and I forgot about this one:
Color matched keypad system derived from an early 90's Taurus. I did a few of these and Carl (buckgnarly) is the "originator" because it was his idea to do it -- but I'm the one who made it work, lol.
Since I added that Ford alarm system, the keypad had a problem. The alarm can arm and disarm ONLY with the keyfob. If I used the keypad to unlock, it would actually set off the alarm.
What I did was take a spare keyfob, remove the circuit board, and interface it to the keypad controller. Now my keypad controller has an "embedded" transmitter and it controls lock/unlock with it. The keyfob now runs off the truck battery power, and there is no dome light function.
When you lock it from the keypad it's just like locking it from a keyfob, and the same for unlocking.
As far as I know, I'm the only one to adapt the keypads in the first place, and now the only one to interface them successfully to this type of alarm.
Here's pics. The second pic is the keyfob with the added circuitry to power and control it. The first pic is the fob board on the keypad controller boards and wired into it. The large black tubing on the right hand board is a 3 diode stack necessary to reduce the 5 volt power to about 3.5 volts.
The fob runs off a 3 volt lithium battery and refuses to operate properly on 5 volts straight up.
All these pics are before I tacked down the board and wiring with "liquid electrical tape" to keep them from vibrating loose. I use that instead of silicone caulk because of the acids released when those cure and I have no silicone with the non-acid cure right now.
Color matched keypad system derived from an early 90's Taurus. I did a few of these and Carl (buckgnarly) is the "originator" because it was his idea to do it -- but I'm the one who made it work, lol.
Since I added that Ford alarm system, the keypad had a problem. The alarm can arm and disarm ONLY with the keyfob. If I used the keypad to unlock, it would actually set off the alarm.
What I did was take a spare keyfob, remove the circuit board, and interface it to the keypad controller. Now my keypad controller has an "embedded" transmitter and it controls lock/unlock with it. The keyfob now runs off the truck battery power, and there is no dome light function.
When you lock it from the keypad it's just like locking it from a keyfob, and the same for unlocking.
As far as I know, I'm the only one to adapt the keypads in the first place, and now the only one to interface them successfully to this type of alarm.
Here's pics. The second pic is the keyfob with the added circuitry to power and control it. The first pic is the fob board on the keypad controller boards and wired into it. The large black tubing on the right hand board is a 3 diode stack necessary to reduce the 5 volt power to about 3.5 volts.
The fob runs off a 3 volt lithium battery and refuses to operate properly on 5 volts straight up.
All these pics are before I tacked down the board and wiring with "liquid electrical tape" to keep them from vibrating loose. I use that instead of silicone caulk because of the acids released when those cure and I have no silicone with the non-acid cure right now.
#46
10-16-2005
Member
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 3,588
Likes: 1
From: Philadelphia, PA
