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So I am going through a 2002 Ranger I bought for my son. I fell into a rabbit hole of issues but knew this going into the project.
currently I am replacing the rear leaf springs because one of the shackles broke. Upon doing so I broke a hard brake line and am waiting on that to get here. Tonight I flipped the key on and brake light is on. So I checked the fluid - empty. Makes sense but I notice this purple plug just laying there under the hood. It looks like an ABS module but not sure. The brakes worked before I ripped into this but can verify the ABS did not. I didn’t have any lights on the dash but slid on snow. So my Question is can the brakes work without this plugged in and just the ABS not? And is that what this is? Why the hell would it be unplugged to begin with. Ugh.
thanks in advanced.
that sure looks like the plug for the ABS module, probably had an issue with the ABS undesired activation so they unplugged it, not hurting anything just wont have ABS brakes, normal brakes will be fine
you can try plugging it in and seeing what happens
that sure looks like the plug for the ABS module, probably had an issue with the ABS undesired activation so they unplugged it, not hurting anything just wont have ABS brakes, normal brakes will be fine
you can try plugging it in and seeing what happens
Awesome - thank you for the information. I am glad to know that unplugged the brakes will work, on know on some Chevys they cannot, will not, and need a special computer to bleed the system if the brake system is EVER opened - even for a simple brake job. I seen this and thought, oh man this is going to be a Ford Service Department scan, bleed, diagnose and charge $$$.
I will finish the brakes Saturday when the hard lines get delivered and then test, bring home, plug in the module and test again. I wonder if it was unplugged to do some off road use and never plugged in or if there was an issue. Guess I will find out soon enough. Again, thank you for taking the time to respond and share your knowledge. Have a great day!
ABS bulb was probably on and previous owner didn't want to pay for repair, so unplugged the unit
But bulb would have still been on
So it was most likely remove
Rangers do a "bulb test" with Key On
All the dash light should come on for 2 seconds or so with Key On, its not a "system test" just a bulb test
So you should see the ABS light come on with the bulb test, if not, it missing or disabled
ABS bulb was probably on and previous owner didn't want to pay for repair, so unplugged the unit
But bulb would have still been on
So it was most likely remove
Rangers do a "bulb test" with Key On
All the dash light should come on for 2 seconds or so with Key On, its not a "system test" just a bulb test
So you should see the ABS light come on with the bulb test, if not, it missing or disabled
It can tell/show you where ABS light should be on dash, also good to have manual in this form for easier searches, lol
I can confirm the previous owner did something regarding CEL lights, I hooked my scanner up and have some o2 sensor cords. Is there a fuse for the ABS or CEL lights? Neither come on with a cycle of the key.
I remove the ABS fuse when off-road. It is #14 in the fuse compartment by the front of the driver's door. The ABS light comes on but the brakes work just fine.
Most if not all Warning light bulbs have 12volts with key on, the device, like computer(CEL) or ABS will GROUND that bulb to turn it on, so there is only 1 fuse, maybe 2 that power all the dash warning bulbs
The "bulb test" Grounds all the cluster bulbs regardless of that bulbs device status, as said its not a "system test" just a light bulb test
You will need to test the 2 wires that go to the rear axle speed sensor
On a 2002 Ranger, on the ABS connector pins/slots 21 and 22 are the rear axle sensor
Pin 21 should be a red/pink stripe wire
Pin 22 should be a light green/black stripe wire
Unplug connector and use an OHM meter on connector to those two slots, 21 and 22
Should see 1,000 to 2,000 ohms, 1400 ohms is spec, that means wires and sensor are OK
If its an Open circuit then a wire is broken or sensor is
Unplug the rear axle sensor, put a jumper wire between the 2 wires on connector, so wires are shorted together back to ABS connector
Re-test slots 21 and 22, should see 0 ohms or low ohms if wires are OK, if not then 1 or both wires are broken
If you do but didn't get 1400 ohms on first test then replace sensor, or you can test sensor directly, should be about 1400 ohm
Inside the rear differential is a tone ring, the rear axle sensor "reads" that tone ring as it spins, very very rare to have any issue with the tone wheel, just a possibility
This isn't a FX4 is it?
I had one that sheared the ring gear bolts (a known problem with the early FX4 diffs) and they bounced around the diff, wiping out the sensor in the process and throwing the code. It's a remote possibility, but easy to check (just pull the sensor out and check for damage).
Agree, the 2001 "Off Road" package became the FX4 in 2002. FYI, auto transmission FX4's didn't have a manual transfer case, just the 2002-2003 manual transmission FX4.
Edit: my 2002 FX4 came up as a "XLT" when doing a VIN lookup.
Agree, the 2001 "Off Road" package became the FX4 in 2002. FYI, auto transmission FX4's didn't have a manual transfer case, just the 2002-2003 manual transmission FX4.
Edit: my 2002 FX4 came up as a "XLT" when doing a VIN lookup.
My Ranger is a 2002, it doesn't say FX4 on it, should it?
Let's put this FX4 stuff behind us. If you measure around the circumference of the axle tube just inboard of the leaf spring, it measures 9.5 inches(or 3" outside diameter) for the 28 spline 8.8. The 2002 FX4, and 2003-2007 FX4 Level 2 31 spline measure ~11.5 inches (or 3.5" outside diameter). I just measured both to be sure.
In any case, if you are at the rear diff checking the circuits, it's not too much work to take out the bolt and wiggle/twist out the sensor to look for damage.
01-19-2022
