I had all the write ups handy and still missed a few things.
Transfer case is a 4406 from a late 90's F150.

 

Edit in answer to Orangeisnon:
Currently the portion over the cab is cantilevered over the cab. I did not connect it due to potential twisting - I didn't want to have the bed/topper to shift clockwise while the cab twisted counterclockwise and bend the rack/roof/topper/bed/whatever. I may cut that portion back a bit, or possibly add in some sort of flexible support, but I don't plan on anything too heavy on that end. We'll see. Added 2 more photos to show the front. Sorry I can't give better info on weight tolerance on the roof - I didn't research that too much because popping holes in my cab roof scares me! I think there are kits available to add anchors to the roof - maybe someone else has knowledge or experience with this? Just be mindful of that twist.

 

Wow, man! That is "quite a bit"! Looks great!

 

Couldn't you just put some rubber feet on the part that sits over the roof? While it would still wouldn't hold the weight that the back portion does it would keep it from bouncing and possibly bending.

 

That was my thought, if I don't end up cutting the front section back. I just don't want the feet to make contact and rub the paint down. I think I would make them so they sit off the cab about 1/4" to 1/2" away from contact, so they would be "in case of extreme bouncing only" safeguards. Still letting my brain chew on the setup and solution for a while.
...actually, what I will most likely end up doing is installing rails from some junkyard vehicle on top of the cab and mount a basket up there, and cut the current rack back to just cover the topper. Another forum member, UltraHDGames iirc, did this with Explorer rails and it looks great. He used bolts through holes drilled in the cab roof with washers and nuts and silicone sealant - scary, but doable.

 

Partially installed LED bed lights. Have them up and running with a delay module programmed for first signal on and second signal two minute delayed off.

For now I have a rocker switch just dangling in the rear of the bed on the drivers side.

Final install will have a door jamb switch for the tailgate, a momentary pushbutton switch at the ice chest location and a latching pushbutton switch in the dash.

Also plan to incorporate it into a future remote start system.

 

TODAY, I updated 2 of 6 towers for the rack. I found boat trailer bow bumpers and cut them down to the correct size. I think they'll be more aerodynamic, but mostly they just look cleaner. And they were cheaper than the coil spring spacers I originally used. Plus, added bonus, they already have a ½" hole in them.
Next: swap the other 4 towers to match.

 

Looks good, I would have never thought of using those.

 

Finished up doing both front wheel bearing hub assemblies today. They were really bad, but all is well now.

I have a 99, so it has a retainer clip instead of the axle nut. I could only find one video showing how to get it out. I figured that the best way to do it is to use a screwdriver to remove the spring that sits in front of it, then snap ring pliers to get the clip out. Putting it back in, it was more feasible to put the spring on the clip, then put the whole thing back in over the cv axle end.

 

Decided to give the blinker mod a try. Worked great on the driver side. Pooped my pants for a minute on the passenger side when the side light was not working .Checked the circuit with a meter and it has juice. Looked closer at the bulb - it is dead. Might have been that way for a while, actually. I did not check it before starting the mod. Should just be a simple bulb replacement....(right?)

 

it was. Replaced it and now my lights blink all purdy!

 

Yesterday I used my cap roof rack and tested it out. I hauled a cap on my cap! It worked great!
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put in a new sub

https://www.ranger-forums.com/audio-...nstall-155992/

 

 

What were signs that it went bad? I ask only because mine is approaching 200k... Do they just stop suddenly or progressively crank slower..etc.?

Thanks,
-Nigel

 

One day after several short stops running errands my wife got in to start it and nothing! No clicks no sound just dash lights and that was it when turning the ignition. Prior to this there were no sign of slow cranking or abnormal sounds when engaging the starter. Had AAA come out (because I was no where near to help) and verified that the battery was good. The AAA guy tapped on the starter and it started right away. Got home and it started every-time for 4 more days with no issues BUT, I knew that it was time so I ordered a replacement. It did not start again in my drive way a couple or more times while waiting for the replacement to show up over the next 2 days and several trips (as I carried a small hammer just in case). The part number I ordered and was the exact direct fit is = SA859RM

I hope this helps answer your question and help anyone else that may run into the same situation.

 

Weather was going to be colder this week....so I spent a few hours in the Garage Spit polishing Rocky to perfection.

 

Ever wonder what a ranger would look like with **** on the floor??

 

I replaced the driver side door hinge that prevented me from closing the door all the way unless slammed super hard. Now I need to figure out how to get to those bolts i over tightened because I can't open my door without messing up the door against the side panel.

Update:
Next day, I fixed the door by hanging off of it and being able to clear the panel to open the door. Door now closes way easier and isn't damaging the nader pin as much. Also cleaned the inside of my cab with hydrogen peroxide spray and pine-sol. I regret using pine-sol.

 

 

Just got back from Alaska (commercial fishing) and need R&R. So, took the truck in to my expert Ranger guy and had him slap in a new timing belt, water pump and housing, crank seal, thermostat, serpentine belt, and lastly (after 25 years) a new radiator. Could have "gotten by" with the old one but it had developed a small leak, so since it was out......

FYI, don't forget to log the miles and date when you throw in a timing belt. I didn't, so I had to "figure" when it was due.

 

Newer 2001 door panels installed today , also solid "one piece"rear glass from a 89 and really Clean set of buckets with lumbar support from a 1990 ext cab.

 

Ford forgot to put the drain plug on my transmission fluid pan so I ordered a drain plug kit. Won't be here until Jan 9. Reviews are mixed. Some say it's leaky but I plan on replacing the plastic washer with a copper washer & using JB Weld to seal it. Already got a new pan gasket & filter. Just completed my differential fluid change. Not a fan of Amsoil's plastic squeeze bags of diff lube. An unopened bag leaked fluid on my seat overnight & that smell isn't coming out. Might be replacing the seat. Anyway the drain plug kit part # is: Dorman 65128 Transmission Drain Plug Kit.

 

Replaced front drivers side wheel bearing and both sway bar links.

 

https://imgur.com/gallery/KroCZKk