The "What did you do to your Ranger today" thread
#4552
#4555
Painted Bumper and Grille with Rustoleum spray bedliner and painted Charcoal (same as my interior) and my HID Projector headlights (still getting flickering, no clue why). It's actually getting me very mad at this point, lol.
Fixed truck bed rot and wheel well rot. Painted wheel well and rockers the same as the bumper, awaiting trim pieces to make it a crisp transition (I'm leaning towards chrome...)
Rehabbed interior with Blue LED's. Still have to do steering wheel and extend and/or bend shifter so I can sit more comfortably.
Plenty more to do just not enough nice days off to do so!
Fixed truck bed rot and wheel well rot. Painted wheel well and rockers the same as the bumper, awaiting trim pieces to make it a crisp transition (I'm leaning towards chrome...)
Rehabbed interior with Blue LED's. Still have to do steering wheel and extend and/or bend shifter so I can sit more comfortably.
Plenty more to do just not enough nice days off to do so!
#4556
#4557
#4558
I originally had one harness for both headlights as it was designed for that. After I lost my lights after two nights and kept popping fuses (long story). I realized it was a bad ballast so i replaced it and got another harness, one for each side. I had it going for a day then one kept flickering and died, replaced that yet again. Now I put them back on one harness and I get a slight flicker from one or both...haven't ran the truck much because I'm doing body work. Really don't want this to fail again.
My thought was to separate them that way each control box is supporting one ballast, thus half the load. Talked to TRS they said to put them on just one, see where that gets me. It does have a 20amp fuse in it, could upgrading it to 30amp get rid of the flickering at startup? Both the negative grounds are bolted to the front Kframe, I made sure to wire brush off paint before doing it. Connections are tight...just don't get it.
#4560
#4563
I used the "Motocontrol" ready made harness with a relay in it from TheRetrofitSource.com, that sort of wiring is beyond me. Thanks for the information though! It's always good to learn something new. I will add this to my archives of stuff. I opted to go for ready made system because I just don't like electrical.
I originally had one harness for both headlights as it was designed for that. After I lost my lights after two nights and kept popping fuses (long story). I realized it was a bad ballast so i replaced it and got another harness, one for each side. I had it going for a day then one kept flickering and died, replaced that yet again. Now I put them back on one harness and I get a slight flicker from one or both...haven't ran the truck much because I'm doing body work. Really don't want this to fail again.
My thought was to separate them that way each control box is supporting one ballast, thus half the load. Talked to TRS they said to put them on just one, see where that gets me. It does have a 20amp fuse in it, could upgrading it to 30amp get rid of the flickering at startup? Both the negative grounds are bolted to the front Kframe, I made sure to wire brush off paint before doing it. Connections are tight...just don't get it.
I originally had one harness for both headlights as it was designed for that. After I lost my lights after two nights and kept popping fuses (long story). I realized it was a bad ballast so i replaced it and got another harness, one for each side. I had it going for a day then one kept flickering and died, replaced that yet again. Now I put them back on one harness and I get a slight flicker from one or both...haven't ran the truck much because I'm doing body work. Really don't want this to fail again.
My thought was to separate them that way each control box is supporting one ballast, thus half the load. Talked to TRS they said to put them on just one, see where that gets me. It does have a 20amp fuse in it, could upgrading it to 30amp get rid of the flickering at startup? Both the negative grounds are bolted to the front Kframe, I made sure to wire brush off paint before doing it. Connections are tight...just don't get it.
park on level surface - start engine - release parking brake - let the lights flicker - a capacitor inside the control box needs to be charged ( for the DRL function to work properly )
my ballasts work from the DRL function because of a boo boo i made, i was testing a led light bar and i forgot to remove the positive lead from the battery , drove my vehicle for several days , lost interior heat - popped the hood - topped up coolant - and looked over then saw the positve wire lead contacting the moto control outer casing
( i guess the outer casing needs to be positively charged for the DRL function to work )
you might try this to see if the lights fully operate with the outer casing positively charged
but you might also FRY the control box as well ( up to you ) not a big wire just a small wire
#4565
are you driving the truck with the headlight switch in the OFF position
park on level surface - start engine - release parking brake - let the lights flicker - a capacitor inside the control box needs to be charged ( for the DRL function to work properly )
my ballasts work from the DRL function because of a boo boo i made, i was testing a led light bar and i forgot to remove the positive lead from the battery , drove my vehicle for several days , lost interior heat - popped the hood - topped up coolant - and looked over then saw the positve wire lead contacting the moto control outer casing
( i guess the outer casing needs to be positively charged for the DRL function to work )
you might try this to see if the lights fully operate with the outer casing positively charged
but you might also FRY the control box as well ( up to you ) not a big wire just a small wire
park on level surface - start engine - release parking brake - let the lights flicker - a capacitor inside the control box needs to be charged ( for the DRL function to work properly )
my ballasts work from the DRL function because of a boo boo i made, i was testing a led light bar and i forgot to remove the positive lead from the battery , drove my vehicle for several days , lost interior heat - popped the hood - topped up coolant - and looked over then saw the positve wire lead contacting the moto control outer casing
( i guess the outer casing needs to be positively charged for the DRL function to work )
you might try this to see if the lights fully operate with the outer casing positively charged
but you might also FRY the control box as well ( up to you ) not a big wire just a small wire
When I tested the lights when I installed them I turned the truck on for a few minutes before turning the lights on, gave the above symptoms. I don't drive with headlights on during the day. Everything works as should. Headlights fire up when I switch to headlight on the ****, high/low function. Just still have a flickering issue that's pissing me off. Maybe the Control box isn't grounded well? Not sure why it would need to be since there are two grounds already.
#4566
who manufactured the ballasts, cheap chinese ballasts will do what you stated
good quality ballasts usually fire right up, drive side ballast lag would probably be a control box issue
try each ballast at a time , passenger then driver driver, to see if the issue is in fact control box related
if the driver side alone still flickers , the it would be a ballast issue
post a picture as to where you mounted the moto control box please
good quality ballasts usually fire right up, drive side ballast lag would probably be a control box issue
try each ballast at a time , passenger then driver driver, to see if the issue is in fact control box related
if the driver side alone still flickers , the it would be a ballast issue
post a picture as to where you mounted the moto control box please
#4567
who manufactured the ballasts, cheap chinese ballasts will do what you stated
good quality ballasts usually fire right up, drive side ballast lag would probably be a control box issue
try each ballast at a time , passenger then driver driver, to see if the issue is in fact control box related
if the driver side alone still flickers , the it would be a ballast issue
post a picture as to where you mounted the moto control box please
good quality ballasts usually fire right up, drive side ballast lag would probably be a control box issue
try each ballast at a time , passenger then driver driver, to see if the issue is in fact control box related
if the driver side alone still flickers , the it would be a ballast issue
post a picture as to where you mounted the moto control box please
Here is a photo of where I mounted the control box and driver side ballast. Battery to the left, both mounted on the front Kmember behind the headlight.
#4568
starting dim then intensifying is normal
( firing up bright would burn out the bulbs very quickly )
even if the driver side ballast flickers for a second then fires up , i would not worry about it
my ballasts do that sometimes
there is a coil inside the ballast that needs to be charged 1st before it can convert the voltage to AC
( firing up bright would burn out the bulbs very quickly )
even if the driver side ballast flickers for a second then fires up , i would not worry about it
my ballasts do that sometimes
there is a coil inside the ballast that needs to be charged 1st before it can convert the voltage to AC
#4569
starting dim then intensifying is normal
( firing up bright would burn out the bulbs very quickly )
even if the driver side ballast flickers for a second then fires up , i would not worry about it
my ballasts do that sometimes
there is a coil inside the ballast that needs to be charged 1st before it can convert the voltage to AC
( firing up bright would burn out the bulbs very quickly )
even if the driver side ballast flickers for a second then fires up , i would not worry about it
my ballasts do that sometimes
there is a coil inside the ballast that needs to be charged 1st before it can convert the voltage to AC
#4570
Today's work schedule on my 2000 Ranger XLT included, a oil change, air filter box vacuumed out of all its debris with a new air filter installed, flushed radiator and replaced with new anti-freeze and distilled water to top it off and i bought $10.00 worth of gas lol. Then I went a purchased another 2000 Ranger XLT stepside for $350 with same motor as mine. It has a cracked head and looks like hell but I'll fix the head issue and it can be another working Ranger.
Im pushing 255,000 miles and my truck is running great!
Im pushing 255,000 miles and my truck is running great!
#4571
#4572
anyone wanting to have their trucks sprayed by krown
Krown Rust Control| Rustproofing & Protection for Cars, Trucks, Vans
type in your zip code and locate the nearest krown affilate dealer in the u.s
Krown Rust Control| Rustproofing & Protection for Cars, Trucks, Vans
type in your zip code and locate the nearest krown affilate dealer in the u.s
#4574
#4575
just finished replacing the front shocks with monroe reflex shocks
what a pain , i had to crank up the torsion bars just to get the new shocks to fit in their slots
thank god i do not do this every day
( just a suggestion to everyone , buy some extra stud nuts to cover the threads , this will aid in removing the old shocks without issue )
what a pain , i had to crank up the torsion bars just to get the new shocks to fit in their slots
thank god i do not do this every day
( just a suggestion to everyone , buy some extra stud nuts to cover the threads , this will aid in removing the old shocks without issue )