Tried it all - WON'T START
#1
Tried it all - WON'T START
The story's long but I'll keep it short by listing what I've done to try to get my 2011 Ranger to start. Mysteriously stopped cranking after filling up at a gas station (no prior issues). Ignition just made a clicking noise. Jumped it off and it started. Got it home... never cranked again and won't jump off. only makes repeated clicking noise.
1. Replaced the battery with a new one. (originally reading 12.5 volts) Tried cranking and the reading off the starter cable never got over 12.5
2. Cleaned the cable connectors
3. I can get a 13.6 volt reading on the starter cable when I connect my neighbor's truck battery to mine while running his truck. (doesn't crank it)
4. Replaced starter/solenoid even though the other was probably ok.
5. Checked the starter relay (switched it out) tried jumping over it and still just get clicking.
6. Put a new ignition switch in it just for good measure... nope, not it.
7. Took the starter off and wired directly to my battery just to see if it's ok... it works fine.
8. (Thought about setting fire to the truck)
9. Checked all the fuses. Can't find any blown.
10. The truck has set now for over a week - the new battery dropped to 2.8 volts (how, why, what the h...) Can power just drain out with nothing on?
Maybe a possible grounding problem, but where do I go on that? how is it grounded, where would I find that wire?
What other things can I check/replace? Is it possible that a bad ignition (the key part) would make it not get enough power?. Can I wire right off my battery to the starter, bypassing all fuses/relays and hot wire the starter so I can run it just until I get it figured out? I can't keep borrowing the neighbor's truck.
1. Replaced the battery with a new one. (originally reading 12.5 volts) Tried cranking and the reading off the starter cable never got over 12.5
2. Cleaned the cable connectors
3. I can get a 13.6 volt reading on the starter cable when I connect my neighbor's truck battery to mine while running his truck. (doesn't crank it)
4. Replaced starter/solenoid even though the other was probably ok.
5. Checked the starter relay (switched it out) tried jumping over it and still just get clicking.
6. Put a new ignition switch in it just for good measure... nope, not it.
7. Took the starter off and wired directly to my battery just to see if it's ok... it works fine.
8. (Thought about setting fire to the truck)
9. Checked all the fuses. Can't find any blown.
10. The truck has set now for over a week - the new battery dropped to 2.8 volts (how, why, what the h...) Can power just drain out with nothing on?
Maybe a possible grounding problem, but where do I go on that? how is it grounded, where would I find that wire?
What other things can I check/replace? Is it possible that a bad ignition (the key part) would make it not get enough power?. Can I wire right off my battery to the starter, bypassing all fuses/relays and hot wire the starter so I can run it just until I get it figured out? I can't keep borrowing the neighbor's truck.
#2
RF Veteran
iTrader: (1)
Welcome to the forum
2011 Ranger, 4cyl or V6?
On the dash there is an "alarm light", looks like a padlock
When you turn on the key it should light up and then go OFF, this means your Key has passed the PATS(passive anti-theft system) test, AKA SecuriLock passive anti-theft
system
If padlock light flashes fast then there is NO WAY to start the engine
OK lets assume your Key works and padlock light comes on and then goes OFF<<< this MUST also happens
Check fuse 21 in cab fuse box, 5amp
When you turn the key to START it sends 12volts to Fuse 21, then fuse 21 sends that 12volts to the DTR(digital transmission range) sensor on the drivers side of transmission
The DTR sensor will ONLY pass the 12volts if its in Park or Neutral, so if it doesn't start in Park, try Neutral(if manual trans it goes thru the clutch switch)
From the DTR sensor(clutch switch) the 12volts goes to the engine fuse box, and the Starter Relay, this activates the relay, IF(big if) the PATS padlock light is NOT flashing
The Starter relay passes 12volts from fuse 7, 30amp, in the engine fuse box
Starter solenoid, on the starter motor, gets the 12volts from starter relay(on is "S" post) and it activates, it pushes out starter gear and then spins the starter motor
2011 Ranger, 4cyl or V6?
On the dash there is an "alarm light", looks like a padlock
When you turn on the key it should light up and then go OFF, this means your Key has passed the PATS(passive anti-theft system) test, AKA SecuriLock passive anti-theft
system
If padlock light flashes fast then there is NO WAY to start the engine
OK lets assume your Key works and padlock light comes on and then goes OFF<<< this MUST also happens
Check fuse 21 in cab fuse box, 5amp
When you turn the key to START it sends 12volts to Fuse 21, then fuse 21 sends that 12volts to the DTR(digital transmission range) sensor on the drivers side of transmission
The DTR sensor will ONLY pass the 12volts if its in Park or Neutral, so if it doesn't start in Park, try Neutral(if manual trans it goes thru the clutch switch)
From the DTR sensor(clutch switch) the 12volts goes to the engine fuse box, and the Starter Relay, this activates the relay, IF(big if) the PATS padlock light is NOT flashing
The Starter relay passes 12volts from fuse 7, 30amp, in the engine fuse box
Starter solenoid, on the starter motor, gets the 12volts from starter relay(on is "S" post) and it activates, it pushes out starter gear and then spins the starter motor
#3
Car dealer should know code.
I think you have to reset anti theft mode. First I removed the negative on battery. Then I removed panels under steering column, then I removed housing around steering column and took ignition out, took off immobilizer antena ring and unbolted the transponder immobilizer anti theft device and unplugged it
I was gonna get some sleep but remembered the negative was off the battery. So I put everything back together hooked the battery back up and WA LA it started right up. I AM SO HAPPY
The dealership told me I was gonna have to tow it up to them. And the lock Smith said I probably needed a new transponder immobilizer unit. No evidently you just have to unplug it then plug it back in to reset it. Worked for me, Hope it does for you to.
i tried that again it didn't work.
I was gonna get some sleep but remembered the negative was off the battery. So I put everything back together hooked the battery back up and WA LA it started right up. I AM SO HAPPY
The dealership told me I was gonna have to tow it up to them. And the lock Smith said I probably needed a new transponder immobilizer unit. No evidently you just have to unplug it then plug it back in to reset it. Worked for me, Hope it does for you to.
i tried that again it didn't work.
Last edited by Tanya; 06-12-2020 at 12:37 AM. Reason: I was wrong
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